1BADLT1mi

Hi, I am looking to upgrade my lt1, and i have not yet gained very much knowledge about an LT1. I have mostly messed with LS cars. Is it true in fact that an lt1 has a stronger bottom end? And also i am looking to do a few things to my car: i have heard everything from Pacemaker Headers, to a programmer. I'm just looking for some advice and i appreciate any that anyone has for me thank you

bizerk1

well we would need to know your goals, what you want and your budget. I am new but I have gained alot of knowledge since joining and have alot more to learn, so it will come to you. Bottom end is not that strong but can be when done.

1BADLT1mi

I am working with around 2k and i am mostly looking for power in my low to mid range. My buddies and i all have cars and we mostly cruise not much at the strip more so on the street. I've looked into rear mount turbo's but everything i have found has said to have long lag times.

tbag_skywalker

Not sure if an LT1 has a stronger bottom end than an LS1, but I can say that our motors are very similar to the old iron SBC's with 2-bolt mains. Its not by any means a bullet proof setup but its still pretty strong, and depending on your goals, will probably be strong enough untouched. As for LS1's, I'm pretty sure they're 4-bolt mains, but they are aluminum blocks instead of iron, so I'm sure the strength argument can go either way.

Pacesetter makes a good long-tube header, so does LPP, Dynatech, Jet Hot, Kooks, and Heddman. I'm running Hookers which are basically the same thing as Jet Hot, and I'm very happy with them overall.

As for programmers, don't bother. When I first got started, I had a Hypertech Power Programmer which I learned did absolutely nothing. If youre looking for a good tune, dynotuning is the best. HPtuners is nice but they don't make anything to support LT engines-- we've got some programs such as LT1_edit, TunerCat, and a few others. If you can't get the car tuned on a dyno, there's a few mailorder tuners out there such as madtuner.com and pcmforless.com. There's a few more good ones that I can't think of at the moment. Mailorder tuning is basically the next best thing after dynotuning.

Anyways, let us know what your goals are with the car and we'll tell you how to get there. The LT1 doesn't quite respond to bolt-ons and other upgrades as well as LS1's do, but it's still a good solid engine and a good platform to start with.

1BADLT1mi

That makes sense. Did you have any problems with clearance with the long tubes? I just want the car to get up and go, and be able to put the hurt on the ricers around me

tbag_skywalker

I had zero fitment problems at all with my Hooker headers. They were a pain in the *** to install like all long tubes are on our engines, but once I got them in they fit very well. The only complaint I have about the Hooker/JetHot headers is that the #1 primary is a separate piece that slip-fits to the rest of the header, and this stupid fitting slowly starts to leak over time, so every other year I have to unbolt it, clean it, and apply new high-temp RTV to get it to seal back up. No big deal, I just wish I didn't have to bother with it.

Is your car stick or auto? If you want it to get up and go, doing a gear swap is one of the best things you can do. Most M6 guys will go with a 3.90 or 4.10, and most A4 guys go with 3.73's or 3.42's. You can get a set of gears for around $250 and an install kit for another $100. Then you'll have to buy fluid and count on a shop charging around $400 for the install.

Don't forget to throw an intake on it, too. I just did a Moroso CAI which works fine, but the LS1 lid conversion yields the most power. Don't worry about upgrading your throttle body till youre ready for heads/cam or atleast done with bolt-ons, the stock LT1 throttle body actually flows pretty well.

I'd say do the long tube headers and full exhaust, intake, a decent tune, and a set of gears and you'll be pretty happy.

1BADLT1mi

Yes, i my car is an auto and i am currently running a 3.73 gear with a k&n cold air intake as well as a maganaflow muffler. I was looking at an intake available from edelbrock intake that is available. Never really considered going with an ls1 lid conversion because my current hood is ram air.

bizerk1

tq converter, lower control arms, Pacesetter headers. what is ur budget and what is your goal, hp or et?

tbag_skywalker

Nice, sounds like you know what your doing already. I know pretty much nothing about A4's, but I do know a lot of the guys here upgrade their converters when they do gears, its supposed to help a ton.

Do the converter, slap some long tubes on it, and get it tuned. It'll be almost like a whole new car.

Doing some suspension mods like bizerk1 said couldn't hurt either, or you could use the remaining money to start getting the valvetrain prepped for a cam. Buy some 1.6 NSA roller rockers, 7/16" studs, hardened guideplates and pushrods, and a good set of valve springs.

I've got a little work done to my suspension. Spohn parts-- boxed lower control arms, weld-in subframe braces, and an adjustable panhard bar. Didn't notice any change with the panhard bar but the subframe braces and LCA's definitely helped tighten the car up and make it more predictable.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You get what you pay for.
As far as the primary is concerned I would suggest using a band clamp. It may not completely seal, however it won't be necessary to use sealant and the excessive ratting of the slip fit will cease. Mine was so bad it actually cracked the primary next to the flange.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

$2000 and turbo does not equate. It will cost you 2-3 times that if you are thinking forced induction. Looks like you are going in the right direction so far. do all the free mods, upgrade your exhaust and definitely do a converter, get sticky tires, this alone will probably eat up most of your two grand..

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

second the bolt ons.....no matter what you want in the futur heads,cam,turbo,nitrous....you need the basics....full exhaust....ls1lid...converter...tune...suspension. ...etc.

1BADLT1mi

I Have a friend that is pretty knowledgeable with turbos, and he currently has one off of a buick grand national that he wants to put on it. But then theres inter cooling etc... becuase if i do it i want to do it right. As far as tires goes i currently have toyo drag radials on the back so i should be okay there. As far as hp goes i am not expecting mirciales like some guys trying to make 400hp out of 2k, i would be happy to hit a solid 300-350 range. So you guys think i should get some headers and an upgraded torque convertor. Any suggestions on what size i should go with?

Boman6760

iTrader: (1)

Get ahold of Dave at Yank. Tell him your complete setup and goals and he will set a converter up to you. There are others to Circle D and such. Spend the $ when it comes to a converter. I learned that the hard way. Then I got a Yank and couldn't be happier.

tbag_skywalker

Yea I paid more than the cost of Pacesetters for these things lol.

I was thinking about trying the clamp, its just so cramped down where the fitting is that I'm not sure if I'll have room to turn a wrench.

The fitting itself is fairly tight, it doesn't rattle at all, I just get a tiny "ticking" exhaust leak after a year or so of driving.

I'm guessing you're speaking from experience, do you have the same headers?

1BADLT1mi

So to do a lid swap, is it true that you need modification to the frame and what all is needed to complete it?

02v8ta

iTrader: (8)

I just ordered my
Hooker headers. They're going to leak ?

tbag_skywalker

You're killin' me, smalls.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I bought them as soon as they became available for the LT1 in the late 90's and still have them. The slip fit was not tight, it was indeed a PITA to get a clamp on the primary, but it is possible. I just snugged it to the point of being able to slip it over the seam and then used a few extensions where the ratchet was above the engine to torque it down.

tbag_skywalker

Ah that's what I figured, I'll have to give it a try sometime soon.

Sounds like its gonna be just like getting to those top two tranny-to-bellhousing bolts-- a universal joint and about 2 feet worth of extensions lol.