Need Help on Oil Pressure Issues
#1
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Need Help on Oil Pressure Issues
I'm posting this for a friend who has dam near given up hope on his build. The oil pressure will not stay above 40 once the car is warmed up. Everything was fine right after the build, but then after a week the pressure kept dropping until it will come dam close to zero.
We swapped the oil pump for a Melling with the red spring and it seemed to work fine for another week or so, then the same thing. The guy the block was purchased from said that he had the same issue, but it was due to the cam retainer plate bolts backing out. Everything was said to have been rebuilt before he needed money and decided to sell everything.
The setup consists of;
408 LQ9 iron shortblock. 2006 Engine
-Callies LS1 Crankshaft: 4.00-Inch Stroke, 5140 Steel Crank, Rated for 650 HP, 24x Reluctor.
-Wiseco Forged Flat-Top LS1 Piston Set: 4.030" Bore, 4.000" Stroke, 6.125" Rod Length, 1.110" CH, -3cc Flat-Top; Includes 1.2/1.2/3.0mm GFX Steel Top/Napier 2nd Ring Set.
-Callies Comp Star 6.125" H Beam rods with ARP 2000 7/16 bolts.
-Clearances- main-.0025, rod-.0022, ring end gap-.024 1st .019 2nd, rod side- .021, deck height-9.230. All Clevite bearings
Sdpc Ported Ls3 Heads
Ls3 Intake & Injectors
Nick Williams 90 mm Throttle Body
Cam Specs = Comp Cams TSP custom grind- 235/243 649/651 114+4
We decided to check the retainer plate just to make sure everything was in tact and we found this;
Now this one I'm not sure is a problem, but seems odd that we can see the cam thru what seems to be a hole due to the jagged edges, but I'm only familiar with the LS1 block, so I'm not sure if this is cause for concern.
Please give us your opinions.
We swapped the oil pump for a Melling with the red spring and it seemed to work fine for another week or so, then the same thing. The guy the block was purchased from said that he had the same issue, but it was due to the cam retainer plate bolts backing out. Everything was said to have been rebuilt before he needed money and decided to sell everything.
The setup consists of;
408 LQ9 iron shortblock. 2006 Engine
-Callies LS1 Crankshaft: 4.00-Inch Stroke, 5140 Steel Crank, Rated for 650 HP, 24x Reluctor.
-Wiseco Forged Flat-Top LS1 Piston Set: 4.030" Bore, 4.000" Stroke, 6.125" Rod Length, 1.110" CH, -3cc Flat-Top; Includes 1.2/1.2/3.0mm GFX Steel Top/Napier 2nd Ring Set.
-Callies Comp Star 6.125" H Beam rods with ARP 2000 7/16 bolts.
-Clearances- main-.0025, rod-.0022, ring end gap-.024 1st .019 2nd, rod side- .021, deck height-9.230. All Clevite bearings
Sdpc Ported Ls3 Heads
Ls3 Intake & Injectors
Nick Williams 90 mm Throttle Body
Cam Specs = Comp Cams TSP custom grind- 235/243 649/651 114+4
We decided to check the retainer plate just to make sure everything was in tact and we found this;
Now this one I'm not sure is a problem, but seems odd that we can see the cam thru what seems to be a hole due to the jagged edges, but I'm only familiar with the LS1 block, so I'm not sure if this is cause for concern.
Please give us your opinions.
#2
Your front main bearing has spun. You will have to tear down the engine. Your oil pressure is shot because you now have way too much clearance. You need to have someone assemble your engine that knows what they are doing. Good luck.
#4
Looks like casting flash but is hard to tell without seeing in person. It sure is a shame to have all those high quality components screwed up because of poor engine building.
#5
The piece above is a real screamer. VVT is under the timing cover up front, dude.
The parts you're trying to refer to are the Active Fuel Management system which deactivates certain lifters.
#6
found correction, missing your contribution