View Full Version : Painting supplies?


elis94camaro
07-12-2011, 10:01 PM
Ok everyone so I'm finally getting a paint job and itll be for free.I only have to buy the paint and materials? So my question to you all with experience is what exactly do I buy like the paint, reducer, and things like that because I have no idea what to buy or how much paint to buy.Keep in mind that this is my daily driver and would like to keep the paint recommendations not so expensive. So please share what paint and what else i need to buy and where I can get it for a good price. Thanks

93LS1S10
07-12-2011, 10:12 PM
Not sure if there are any NAPA part stores around your area, but we use their Crossfire brand. It is affordable and we have had good luck with it.

Dudge
07-14-2011, 03:08 PM
I've used Crossfire a couple of times recently and it is a decent paint for the very cheap price. It doesn't cover as well as DBU or DBC from PPG, however. Are you spraying the entire car? If so, are there very many primered places on the car? If you have primered spots or you're doing a color change, it may pay you to seal it before you put on base. A gallon of base should cover the car, even if you do the jambs. Same goes for clear.

ls1curt
07-14-2011, 04:01 PM
If you are getting a complete repaint I would suggest getting a decent quality basecoat such as BASF Diamont or even PPG Omni. In my years of painting I have come to realize that using a good quality base, covers so much quicker and easier. I have used cheap basecoats such as PPG DBC and had to put 6-7 coats to cover where with a good basecoat it usually only takes 3 coats.
How base covers also depends on the color alot.

I would buy a gallon of base which will actually equal a gallon and a half or 2 gallons sprayable depending on which base coat you go with. Some are 2:1 ratios and some 1:1
If you're not going to respray all the jambs I'm sure you could get away with buying only 3 quarts of base.
So you will also need a gallon of urethane grade reducer.

A gallon of clear should be enough. I have had good success with Limco clear which is made by BASF which is also quite affordable. It lays on really nice and doesn't die back like some of the cheaper brands.

Don't for get about the tape and paper for masking. a couple rolls of 3/4" and a roll 1.5" or 2" should get the job done.

Depending on the color it is going I would recommend a good sealer which will help the base cover easier.

98camaro28
07-14-2011, 06:03 PM
If you are getting a complete repaint I would suggest getting a decent quality basecoat such as BASF Diamont or even PPG Omni. In my years of painting I have come to realize that using a good quality base, covers so much quicker and easier. I have used cheap basecoats such as PPG DBC and had to put 6-7 coats to cover where with a good basecoat it usually only takes 3 coats.
How base covers also depends on the color alot.

I would buy a gallon of base which will actually equal a gallon and a half or 2 gallons sprayable depending on which base coat you go with. Some are 2:1 ratios and some 1:1
If you're not going to respray all the jambs I'm sure you could get away with buying only 3 quarts of base.
So you will also need a gallon of urethane grade reducer.

A gallon of clear should be enough. I have had good success with Limco clear which is made by BASF which is also quite affordable. It lays on really nice and doesn't die back like some of the cheaper brands.

Don't for get about the tape and paper for masking. a couple rolls of 3/4" and a roll 1.5" or 2" should get the job done.

Depending on the color it is going I would recommend a good sealer which will help the base cover easier.

Omni is the economy line from PPG, not DBC which is one of the higher lines. DBC is 3-5X the price of Onmi, but has a lot more solids than Omni to cover a lot better. You got that mixed up.

OP, Just get the color you want in Omni. Most Omni I spray only takes 3 coats to cover and is a very good economy paint.

You usually want to get a nicer clear. If I were you I would look into Southern Polyurethanes. Great stuff for a good price. If it's too expensive for you, just go with the "Advantage" clear from English color. Anytime I do a budget paint job, I spray Omni base and Advantage clear. Lays down very nice and I have had great success. Still looks like new years later. Also, Omni reducer is just fine aswell.

Are you personally going to be doing the spraying?

elis94camaro
07-14-2011, 07:14 PM
No I won't be spraying it myself, my uncle will. I am just getting some opinions on paint before I take the car to him. My car has about 4 primer spots on it.I'm really have no knowledge about paint I'm more of a motor junkie, so if you all could be nice and explain what is a sealer and base and reducer and all of that good stuff? I'm just trying to get a good understanding of how all of this paint works.

98camaro28
07-14-2011, 10:50 PM
Primer: Use a good 2K primer. It works as a sealer and "builds" on the painting surface. I would prime the whole thing, wet sand with 600, and prime/sand again before paint. When you use a primer/sealer, it takes less coats to cover depending on what color is underneath and what color your base is. It produces a more even paint job. Buy catalyst to go with it.

Base coat: It's your color. This is 100% what gives the car it's color in a base/clear paintjob. It can be just a pure color or have pearl, flakes, etc in it. I would spray 3 coats of base over primer.

Reducer: Think of the base as being "concentrated". This "waters" down the base, usually mixed 1:1. You can get it in different speeds for different temps. Use "slow" when it's hot, medium during normal temps, and fast when it's cold.

Clear: It's a clear coat. Pretty simple. Spray 3 coats and wet sand the entire car with 2000 with a GOOD quality sandpaper. 3M, Meguires, and Klingspore are all good. I use Klingspore for budget jobs - it's cheap and very good paper. Buy activator to go with it.

Use a buffer and a cheap foam pad to buff the car with Meguires 105. Then use a high quality pad with Meguires 205.

SinisterZ28
07-14-2011, 11:07 PM
^adding to what 98camaro28 said use slow when doing an allover,lays down better so u need a good sealer,base coat(1gal is more than enough usually)slow reducer fir the base.1gal of clear with slow or very slow hardner. I like Matrix MS-42 with very slow hardner it's fairly cheap n easy to use n buffs easy.this all assuming your using a base/clear n not a single stage,I also use spies hecker base coat it's really good base that covers good n lays down nice.

98camaro28
07-14-2011, 11:23 PM
^^ X2, agree.

Here are a few pics of an OMNI base with the Advantage HS clear I sprayed last week. All this is raw and before ANY colorsanding/buffing. This is just after about 24 hours of curing.: This is a Kia Rio color, btw. Very cheap and a very nice blue. 3 coats base, 3 coats clear.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1631.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1632.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1633.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1636.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1637.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1678.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1680.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/94camaro28/100_1685.jpg

elis94camaro
07-15-2011, 07:33 AM
Hey guys I was talking to this painter guy and he told me that I dont have to primer the whole car if I want to save time and money and that I could paint over the existing paint. What's the deal with that? I am looking for a budget paint job so what method would be better? I also wanted to know what I could start doing to the car ( sanding wise) and prepping before my uncle comes from out of town to paint it?One of the quarter panels clear is peeling so how would I go about prepping that? As for the rest of the car I just bought a new fiberglass hood and most of the body panels don't have peeling paint besides the quarter panel. So if you would be so nice as to tell me how I could go about doing this. If you'd like I could post pictures of the peeling paint and the repaired dents?I'm sorry for all of these questions but I am so excited about finally painting my car.

elis94camaro
07-15-2011, 10:10 AM
Man that paint looks amazing!!!! If you don't mind about how much did all the paint materials cost? I'm planning on doing black, so any specific recomendations?

Dudge
07-15-2011, 01:56 PM
The painter was right, you don't have to primer the whole car. I wouldn't recommend it in your situation, being on a budget and it being unnecessary. I do recommend, however, that you're uncle look it over well when he gets there to ensure that the previous bodywork was done correctly and that the body is straight. If you're painting it black, then EVERYTHING is going to show.
As for the peeling clear coat issue, the solution depends on the severity of the problem. If it's not that bad, then you can wet block it out with 400-600 grit until everything is feathered out. As far as prep work goes, you can start wet sanding the car to get ready for paint, if he's coming soon. Go to your local auto paint supply and pick up some decent quality(3M and Bulldog around here) 400-600 grit paper to wet sand with. It would be beneficial to get a flexible sanding block/sponge to use as well, it really helps you obtain an even pattern and takes away the "finger marks" that many people cause by digging out the material while sanding. 8-10 full sheets of quality paper would probably do the car. If you plan on polishing the paint, I would also pick up 8-10 sheets of 2000 grit paper for color sanding.
The cost of all of the supplies needed to paint your car (base, reducer, clear, hardener, sandpaper, tape, wax and grease remover, tack cloth) around here would be about $300 for cheap materials. If you wanted quality materials (all PPG), it would be well over twice that. I didn't factor in sealer or masking paper. I've heard masking paper has really taken a hike in the price department here lately, costing as much as $50 a roll for some stuff. I would imagine you could find a better price if you shopped around a little bit, but seeing as how I do not actually know the current price, I didn't include it. I also haven't priced a cheap sealer lately, but I would imagine you could get enough to do your car (with hardener/reducer) for under $50.

elis94camaro
07-15-2011, 02:17 PM
So I would go over the whole car with 400-600 wet sand to prep it? The body is very straight other than that that little peeling paint, it's not that bad but I just wanted to make sure.

Dudge
07-15-2011, 03:20 PM
Yes. I would finish sand with 600 since you're spraying it black (it shows sand scratches easier). You can go over the whole thing with 400, then with 600, or you can start out with 600. Depending on how hard it is, the 400 and 600 route could be faster. You want to sand evenly until there's no shine left in the paint. Just make sure to keep the area wet and your paper clean.

98camaro28
07-15-2011, 05:16 PM
Agree, finish prep with 600. And I would HIGHLY recommend priming the paint. It will be a little more time and a little more money, but WELL worth it. It will be easier to see and low spots and repair them and provide an even "seal" for the base coat. It can pay for itself in the fact that it will require less base to get an even color on the car. I wouldn't skip primer. If you in that much of a bind I would just get a quart of 2K primer and thin it out and spray 1 coat. That's the minimum.

The above job was just a repair job. Materials were about $100, give or take $15.

Dudge
07-15-2011, 06:14 PM
"Priming the paint" is not necessary in this situation. I can understand priming the entire car, if he stripped the old paint down or the body wasn't very straight. It's also not going to provide better base coverage if he's spraying black base over a black car. I would understand and agree with that statement if this was a wavy body white to black or other drastic color change or something of that nature. Not trying to start a ruckus or anything, just respectfully disagreeing. Priming and blocking a car has it's time and place, and is the best way to really get a car straight. However, considering the information that has been given here, it's not necessary.

SinisterZ28
07-15-2011, 09:26 PM
The body work and pealling clear should be feathered with 320 and primed then wet sand with a sanding block with 500 on the whole car then use a red scuff pad for all the edges,till all the shiny is gone.if you have a compressor n a DA use 600 on the whole car with a soft interface pad(except where the the body work is,should be blocked)of coarse you can do somemore steps but will cost more,and not really nessasary.then it should be ready to paint.
- before and after sanding wipe down with wax n grease remover,do a good job prepping the car n don't get lazy because a good prep job is what makes a good paint job

elis94camaro
07-15-2011, 09:38 PM
The body work already has primer on it and is sanded smooth it was done by a body shop.I'm sorry to sound ldumb but is feathering out the pealing clear coat like blending it in with the surrounding paint?

98camaro28
07-15-2011, 10:35 PM
I did not see that he was spraying black over a black car. In that case, it would be acceptable for coverage reasons.

OP, you said it's already primered and sanded smooth but that you have peeling clear? Please elaborate because that sort of contradicts itself. If you have peeling clear, it needs to be feathered out and primered.

Like SinisterZ28 said, prep is EVERYTHING. You can use the best products in the world and have it sprayed by the best painter in the world, but if the prep is lacking it WILL look like ass. Cheap paint can look fantastic with the right prep, longevity is a different story, but you get the point. Spend your money on the prep and THEN paint.

Since it is being sprayed black, I want you to be aware that OMNI black has a slight shade of brown in the sun. 99% of people will NEVER notice. Just get a fleet black in OMNI, and the "Universal Clear" from SPI (Southern Polyurethanes). You will be very happy with it, and that clear is the best clear on the market for the price. It's about $10 more a gallon than Advantage, including activator.

If you want a "blacker" black, get PPG DBC. Or for the blackest, Sikkens. But those are quite costly. Probably at least 5X the price of Omni. If certain you'll be happy with the OMNI though.

elis94camaro
07-15-2011, 11:08 PM
I'm sorry I didn't explain myself. What I meant to say was that the only the body work is primered and sanded while the clearcoat on the quarter panel is peeling.So my only real problem is that peeling clearcoat, which has to be feathered out. I really don't know how to feather edge and am wondering if I could just sand away the clear because it's not that big of a piece, but what grit would I use,or would it get sanded with the 400 grit? I also wanted to ask about putty?what exactly can I use it for because today I saw a very small ding and wanted to know could I use that. The ding is super small and I was wondering what I could do.Please have patience with me asking all these kindergarten question, but I'm trying to learn.

SinisterZ28
07-16-2011, 12:30 AM
i like Evercoat putty,take some 180 grit and sand the dent and feather the paint slightly around where the dent is( feathering is snding the edges of the repaired area to make a smoother transition) blow off the dust then mix a small amount of putty,i think evercoat is like 1 part hardner to 10 parts putty so a half dollor size of putty with a slightly smaller than dime size of hardner( note:with high temps it will harden faster, n should look light blue green when mixed)spread with a putty/bondo spreader. spread slightly past the dent area. after it hardens( 10-15 min) hardblock sand with 180 till the dents gone.repeat if nessasary.then sand with 320 past all your 180 scratches,then you will need to prime.
since you have a dent and need to prime feather out the peeling clear then prime it also.if its small amount use 320-400 on soft block then prime.
block all the primer once its dried with 500 with a block

98camaro28
07-16-2011, 01:29 AM
I use Evercoat Z-Grip. It's 50:1 mix with hardener.

OP, Follow the above directions. You are going to HAVE to get a good primer. SPIs Turbo Primer is really good stuff and can be used on direct metal.

98camaro28
07-16-2011, 01:35 AM
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0404_paint/index1.html

elis94camaro
07-20-2011, 04:12 PM
It turns out my uncle had to take care of some business so I'm stuck with an unpainted car for another week. Well upon further inspection of my spoiler there is alot of fine scratches and I wanted to know if wetsanding with 400 would take care of them? I'm sorry I'm asking this and didn't try it for myself but I've been working quite a bit. The reason I ask because I had a friend look at it and said I should just go ahead and prime it. I want to know if that is really necessary because the scratches don't seem really bad and they don't catch on my finger nail except a few but not that bad. I was wondering if I could prime the panels myself with a little air compressor I have and a cheap gun. I just want to spray the primer myself and know if it requires a big compressor but I will be priming the panels separately and one each day.

98camaro28
07-20-2011, 06:17 PM
I wouldn't do it, but it could be done. Just wait it out and save yourself the work/haslte.

elis94camaro
07-21-2011, 11:16 AM
So can
I still sand the scratches out?

SinisterZ28
07-21-2011, 01:02 PM
Yes but use a block so you don't have grooves and feather them out, start with 320-400 you will probably need to prime also but don't know how good your compressor is, if it's pretty decent even if it's a smaller one you can prime,I've used my buddy's 30 gal dewalt compressor to prime before just to do small stuff,make sure you have a water trap/filter for your gun

SinisterZ28
07-21-2011, 01:13 PM
Also 2-4 coats, 5 min in between coats on primer and try to not primer to the edges of the tape/masking paper cause you'll have primer edges n even when you sand them out after it's painted you can see them, say you masked off an area 2ft square keep it in side of it youll have some overspay that might hit the tape edge.but say your doing a whole panel like the door you can take it from edge to edge.

elis94camaro
07-21-2011, 03:15 PM
I'm headed to home depot to get a 60 gallon compressor. Do you all think that is a decent size because I would like to primer my old chevy truck after I learn how to spray. What's a good spray gun you all would reccomend I could get at a cheap price to spray primer and paint. I've come to an agreement with my uncle that he would let me spray under his supervision, but until he gets back. I'm just going all the way with painting my car because I was thinking that there's nothing bad that can happen and it is my car that I picked up for cheap.So yeah I should be able to and besides if I need any help Ive got all of you guys helping me and I could also ask my uncle for help, but there's nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

SinisterZ28
07-21-2011, 04:29 PM
For primer that would work if you plan on painting n doing body work more often get a good compressor,like an ingersaw rand 60 gal is enough but you need at least 12 cfm at 90 psi the one I have is 18 cfm at 90 and works great, but you may find a cheaper one that will work for your needs, get a cheap primer gun but see if you uncle has some guns to let you paint the car with a good basecoat gun n clear gun

elis94camaro
07-21-2011, 07:52 PM
I probably be painting alot just this car and my truck but that's after a while though.I was sanding my spoiler off the car and noticed spots when I was done wet sanding with 400 and I even began to see a primer spot, it is smooth though what should I do to it or am i ready to primer it?

98camaro28
07-21-2011, 08:59 PM
The absolute best gun you can buy for the money is a Astro EVO-T with a 1.4mm tip. It's an LVLP, so you will get a lot more "cover" for the amount of paint you spray, and will require a much smaller compressor than an HVLP. I still use this gun for ALL my budget jobs and used a 25gal $150 Harbor Freight compressor with it for years. In fact, those pics of the blue door and fender I posted earlier were sprayed with this gun. It's a VERY nice gun for the money. It's a quality Iwata LPH-400LV copy, which is a well-known and very good gun. Even the tip sets are interchangeable. I have never had any problems with it. Excellent beginner's gun. You can get it for about $100 shipped here:

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Astro/Astro%20Pneumatic%20-%20EVO4014.htm

For a primer gun, get a Harbor Freight cheapo with a 1.8mm tip. (The purple one.)

Be sure to get a GOOD moisture trap. It's extremely important. They're not too expensive but can make or break a job.

kgkern01
07-23-2011, 10:43 AM
The absolute best gun you can buy for the money is a Astro EVO-T with a 1.4mm tip. It's an LVLP, so you will get a lot more "cover" for the amount of paint you spray, and will require a much smaller compressor than an LVLP. I still use this gun for ALL my budget jobs and used a 25gal $150 Harbor Freight compressor with it for years. In fact, those pics of the blue door and fender I posted earlier were sprayed with this gun. It's a VERY nice gun for the money. It's a quality Iwata LPH-400LV copy, which is a well-known and very good gun. Even the tip sets are interchangeable. I have never had any problems with it. Excellent beginner's gun. You can get it for about $100 shipped here:

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Astro/Astro%20Pneumatic%20-%20EVO4014.htm

For a primer gun, get a Harbor Freight cheapo with either a 1.8mm tip. (The purple one.)

Be sure to get a GOOD moisture trap. It's extremely important. They're not too expensive but can make or break a job.

Thanks for the advice. I don't plan on doing any big jobs such as a total car repaint, just one part/panel at a time, so the cheap but effective setup above sounds like what I need.

elis94camaro
07-23-2011, 11:45 AM
Hey everyone I finished sanding my spoiler and I started to come across factory primer. Is this bad ? I was just sanding with 400 and then started to see some. What should I do about? Is it fine to leave these spots before applying the pain or do I have to continue to take off the paint from the rest of the spoiler? The surface is very smooth and I haven't finished sanding with 600 so please do tell me what I have to do. Thanks

SinisterZ28
07-23-2011, 12:04 PM
It's fine, but I suggest you primer it, for something that small you can put 2 light coats of primer then soft block with 500 wet. Small cut throughs on edges will cover with sealer but I would primer if possible it'll pay off in the end, for some reason cut throughs on gm cars seem to show up more than most in paint

elis94camaro
07-23-2011, 12:15 PM
So do I finish with 600 grit then prime? Or do I just spray over the 400 that I sanded with

SinisterZ28
07-23-2011, 12:25 PM
Prime over the 400 then sand primer with 500-600

elis94camaro
07-23-2011, 12:31 PM
Ok man thanks will do that. I'm going to finish going over the whole car with 400 wet then primer right?

SinisterZ28
07-23-2011, 07:43 PM
Yes if you have fixed your dents ect. You can primer

elis94camaro
07-25-2011, 09:25 PM
I ran into a problem today because as I was sanding i cut through the factory primer and can see metal. The area where metal is showing is smaller than a dime. What should I do next as in primer and what kind and any suggestions you may have?

SinisterZ28
07-25-2011, 09:53 PM
For bare metal you can get a spray can of dupont etching primer,1-2 light coats let flash 5-10 min then primer. Dime size you don't really need to do this. You can just prime over but I would get a can and do it cause you may need to use it somemore bad thing is it's about $20 a can.

elis94camaro
07-25-2011, 10:03 PM
Where do I buy a can like this from?Would it be okay to just use the can of self etch and not spray primer right away? The reason is I will be spraying primer after I'm done sanding the whole car

SinisterZ28
07-25-2011, 10:23 PM
Yes you can wait to spray the regular primer on till later,but I would put on two light coats(be carefull it's easy to run, shake well)you will need to sand with 500 or scuff before you put on primer.you don't sand it all off just sand to help the primer stick good to it since it's dry.
You can buy it at parts stores or where you got your other products,I know the oriellys around here has it.

elis94camaro
07-25-2011, 10:29 PM
Ok thanks so I scuff the metal with 500?

Jimmy P
08-12-2011, 02:09 AM
Lots of good info in this thread. Especially about the Astro Pneumatic LVLP Spray Gun - EVO4014 . I have a 25 gallon compressor as well so this should be perfect. Subscribing!