Convertible Vehicles - Subframe connecters on vert

Any seen much difference? any gains? What kind of rwhp?

Subframe connecters won't net you any HP gains. Mostly just tightens up the car, especially in the turns

Gave up waiting for 3pt ones after several years and installed bmr 2pts and it significantly changed the car for me. Much tighter, tracked better, etc.

Flex looses hp though. I was wondering if any gains in 1/4 mile. And what kind of rwhp you had when you did it! I have had a set for 3 years to put on. I have heard it isn't huge difference.

SFCs are the first thing I would do to any vert. They will extend the life of the car. Less flex means less things coming loose and falling off. I did not have them on my 91 Z28 and it shook itself to death. I put them on my 99 TA and it was still very tight when I sold it.

I think there is a huge difference between a third and a fourth gen. Like I said I usually have a set on immediately. There has always been a excuse I would like three points but I have a set of bmr's weld on so I am thinking put them on. I hoping to go 550rwhp or more on a bigger stall too. So it might be more abussive than previous set up.

I'd plan on a 6 or 8 point rollbar also at that level of hp.

I just installed a set of UMI weld in SFCs (but with the bolt in kit)(I wanted the option of welding later) on my 99 ss vert with 102k miles.

Made a huge difference in the feeling of the car. Tighter, more responsive, and less rattles, clunks, etc.

I still dont have any traction... (just a few bolt ons)

Have 2 point bolt in, car mostly stock hp, like the others posted, much better. Some vendor(s) is/are working on 3pt sfc's for verts, later this year or next, but they ARE in the works! :)

I cut the chromoly 12 pt out. I am thinking of the 6-8 point. I want it to stay a street car. A true daily driver. Plans are to mini tub it too.

I have owned 9 F-bodies and always shrugged off SFC's. I got to a point where I couldn't stand the handling anymore. I wish I would've done them a long time ago. Handling and ride is night and day.

i'm sure if you drive like a responsible senior citizen, you might not notice much of a difference except for less rattles and squeaks over road surface irregularities.

i'm sure if you drive like a responsible senior citizen, you might not notice much of a difference except for less rattles and squeaks over road surface irregularities.

Driven hard daily. I was wondering how much to expect doing alot of different mods to car right now. Subframes are on to do list. We are trying to tweak all bugs out before the 408 goes in. We ditched the tci controller on 4l80e went to a speartech. Doing a front mount going to a 3.3 bar. Ditching the yank 3000 sc and going to the py 3600. And if that doesn't do it I will install the spare set ported 317's with patriot springs and put on a new set of 1.85 arms for extra lift. And also fixing Burkrafts screw up on the fab 9. (I should have done bought any other rear. these guys should be closed.).

SFC a Must do IMO...
First time to track w/stickies...pop..sent crack all the way across windshield and RVmirror jumped off.
Replaced windshield(free in FL) and installed BMR weld-ins.
There are mixed opinions on STB but I got one..figured couldn't hurt.

What are the Pro's and Con's differences between Bolt In and Weld In? I would start off by assuming the Bolt In setup is an quicker, cheaper and easier install for someone that can't weld, but from there, what?

Like you said, bolt ins can be done in the garage with out a welder. All bolt ins can be welded in also if you feel the need.