Rangersltw

iTrader: (11)

So I was thinking about replacing the connecting rod bolts with the Katech ones. The oil pan already has to get unbolted for the LS6 ported oil pump. I was going to do it the way i saw in this write up. From what I have been reading the rod bolts are the weakest part on the bottom end of these motors. I am looking to spin the motor to 6800-7000 w/ the TRex and want to decrease the chance of spinning a bearing. And for the cost and time I feel like it would be worth it. Any thoughts?

http://www.ls1engine.com/tech/98-02-...-bolt-install/


Also Im trying to figure out if I should get the adjustable LCA or non adjustable in tube or boxed. My car is staying at stock ride height. The relocation brackets Im getting work with the stock LCA length so i shouldnt need to change the length of the LCA. Does having them adjustable help in some way?

Element

iTrader: (5)

Adjustable rear LCAs help if you want to get an actual four-wheel alignment, or if you need to fix wheel location (on my car, even with all stock suspension pieces, the wheels weren't equally spaced front to rear on the left vs right side). If you can afford a couple bucks more, going adjustable gives you more options.

As far as boxed vs tubular, I never saw why people would want to run the boxed ones. Big, clunky, and ugly.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Especially being the stresses LCA's see are almost completely along the axis of the LCA, there's really no reason to add in the extra torsional or bending rigidity of a boxed LCA. When you have solid 6061 aluminum, the bushings are going to be your weakest link as far as any deflection goes.