357 Hyd Roller, Dart T4P Heads + Supervic Dyno Results
07-26-2011, 10:40 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
357 Hyd Roller, Dart T4P Heads + Supervic Dyno Results I don't post on these boards much anymore but I figured more than a few might be interested in these results as you don't see combos like this every day.
When I dreamed this up I was running in a displacement-based class where more cubes meant more weight needs to be added to the car. Naturally now that I finally have it running well the rules have changed so if I had to do it over again I'd go for more cubes, but oh well. I think I can have fun with this for a while.
The bottom end is a simple 357 I just refreshed, 11.2 compression, pump gas obviously. Heads are Dart Pro1 given the T4P treatment by Bret, Cam is a fairly mild 230/240-ish hyd roller with .6-ish lift, intake done by Bret, Accufab 4-hole TB, EV Extreme elbow. Ebay headers, 3.5 single full exhaust (complete with cone of silence in the tailpipe). It's a T56 with 4.10 10-bolt (for now).
Still runs MAF, opti, stock waterpump and PCM. That should about cover it. Here's the best legit run:
There was one run that went 467/404 but the engine was fairly cool and it ran lean so I don't consider that legit. The tune isn't perfect, the dip in torque at 4500 corresponds to a lean spot that I didn't get around to fixing before my dyno time ran out. And nobody would confuse me with a pro tuner, I get it good enough not to blow up is about all.
Of course with a cutout, an electric WP and running the engine cool, etc, I could bloat those numbers significantly but I'm only interested in measuring it as I run it on the track.
A Pic:
Some build pics from the refresh:
And of course, some head ****:
When I dreamed this up I was running in a displacement-based class where more cubes meant more weight needs to be added to the car. Naturally now that I finally have it running well the rules have changed so if I had to do it over again I'd go for more cubes, but oh well. I think I can have fun with this for a while.
The bottom end is a simple 357 I just refreshed, 11.2 compression, pump gas obviously. Heads are Dart Pro1 given the T4P treatment by Bret, Cam is a fairly mild 230/240-ish hyd roller with .6-ish lift, intake done by Bret, Accufab 4-hole TB, EV Extreme elbow. Ebay headers, 3.5 single full exhaust (complete with cone of silence in the tailpipe). It's a T56 with 4.10 10-bolt (for now).
Still runs MAF, opti, stock waterpump and PCM. That should about cover it. Here's the best legit run:
There was one run that went 467/404 but the engine was fairly cool and it ran lean so I don't consider that legit. The tune isn't perfect, the dip in torque at 4500 corresponds to a lean spot that I didn't get around to fixing before my dyno time ran out. And nobody would confuse me with a pro tuner, I get it good enough not to blow up is about all.
Of course with a cutout, an electric WP and running the engine cool, etc, I could bloat those numbers significantly but I'm only interested in measuring it as I run it on the track.
A Pic:
Some build pics from the refresh:
And of course, some head ****:
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07-27-2011, 01:13 AM
#9
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sweet & STOUT set up Jon! thanks for posting! care to share any more info on those killer heads? and what times do you run or are hoping to run? also why the exhaust silencer? track db limits?
funny how some people on here claim anything of brets does not perform, just like LE is junk.. probably 1 reason why you don't frequent here much anymore?
funny how some people on here claim anything of brets does not perform, just like LE is junk.. probably 1 reason why you don't frequent here much anymore?
07-27-2011, 04:13 AM
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
As noted above, it's a 230/240/.6-ish custom done by Bret.
Cheap ABS plastic sheet, some aluminum angle, a rivet gun and a lot of patience. The hood is a Harwood I attacked with a Dremel to make the scoop functional. Not ideal, but it works as well as giving me the cowl clearance for the elbow:
The filter is a K&N from one of the Z06 CIA kits. Expensive bastard. The tube from the MAF (Lingenfelter 100mm) is a custom job I designed, probably only worth 0.5 HP from the aluminum tube and rubber couplings I had before:
But it makes me feel better when I look at it.
About 228 or so.
They are the heads Bret was doing a while back with the Joe Mendelis designed ports. They're works of art in every way. Flow in the 320-330+ range, depending upon VJ. Custom lightweight LS-sized valves, etc.
I'm not a 1/4 mile guy. Maybe when/if I ever get the 9" parts from my shop floor assembled into a rear end I'll be a little more anxious to see what it will run just for fun, but it's not high on the list of priorities.
I'm more interested in cutting several seconds off my roadcourse laptimes. What I get from data acquisition running down the front straight gives me infinitely more real world data than a 1/4 mile et and MPH, it just won't mean much to most people here.
Yup, I was getting black flagged and would be DQ'd if I didn't quiet it down. The cone just takes enough of the edge off. My initial googling before I put it on showed some Viper guys that said it only cost them around 5 HP so I don't think it's a big deal. Doesn't help though.
Cheap ABS plastic sheet, some aluminum angle, a rivet gun and a lot of patience. The hood is a Harwood I attacked with a Dremel to make the scoop functional. Not ideal, but it works as well as giving me the cowl clearance for the elbow:
The filter is a K&N from one of the Z06 CIA kits. Expensive bastard. The tube from the MAF (Lingenfelter 100mm) is a custom job I designed, probably only worth 0.5 HP from the aluminum tube and rubber couplings I had before:
But it makes me feel better when I look at it.
About 228 or so.
They are the heads Bret was doing a while back with the Joe Mendelis designed ports. They're works of art in every way. Flow in the 320-330+ range, depending upon VJ. Custom lightweight LS-sized valves, etc.
and what times do you run or are hoping to run?
I'm more interested in cutting several seconds off my roadcourse laptimes. What I get from data acquisition running down the front straight gives me infinitely more real world data than a 1/4 mile et and MPH, it just won't mean much to most people here.
also why the exhaust silencer? track db limits?
what shade of blue is that btw quasar? looks killer!!
07-27-2011, 07:29 AM
#12
Nice setup and results. The heads look great. What throttle cable and where is your fuel pressure regulator mounted? I am curious how you routed the fuel lines in the back of the intake as I am in the process of doing a similar setup. Any pics would be appreciated.
07-27-2011, 07:55 AM
#13
Beautiful LT1 re-design.
Those heads or a set of brodix...are my top wanted to see on an LT1.
Great cam choice....This actually looks streetable. Wish we had better options for the intake....but it looks like what your running is what it takes. Altho expensive.
A little more compression...and more cam....550+....but u give up street.
Thanks for posting a dope magazine build !!.....GM high tech wants a resubscription but all I see is tinkerings with that bullchit late model IRS that i'm never going to run.
Title : "No strokes no jokes dirty harry 357"
Those heads or a set of brodix...are my top wanted to see on an LT1.
Great cam choice....This actually looks streetable. Wish we had better options for the intake....but it looks like what your running is what it takes. Altho expensive.
A little more compression...and more cam....550+....but u give up street.
Thanks for posting a dope magazine build !!.....GM high tech wants a resubscription but all I see is tinkerings with that bullchit late model IRS that i'm never going to run.
Title : "No strokes no jokes dirty harry 357"
Last edited by License2Ill; 07-27-2011 at 08:01 AM.
07-27-2011, 08:02 AM
#14
That is awesome ! Nice heads and intake I really like the setup. My last combo Ran a 236/244 on a 115.5 LSA and I swear the curve looks almost identical although I had a few more cubes (388). ANy details on the intake? Ive been looking into some custom intakes but I like how these intakes distribute air towards the centre of the plenum. Great numbers no doubt the power is in the heads !
07-27-2011, 10:31 AM
#17
Killer setup and great clear pics which are helping me with my conversion on my car I would also like to see pics of where you mounted your fp regulator and what brand/model are you using? I am debating running my fuel line in from the front with the crossover at the rear and my Aeromotive regulator off the passanger side front fuel rail.
Also where did you get the naca ducts for your brake cooler setup, I'd like to incorporate that into my setup, thanks?
Also where did you get the naca ducts for your brake cooler setup, I'd like to incorporate that into my setup, thanks?
Last edited by 97Z28SS; 07-27-2011 at 11:09 AM.
07-27-2011, 02:39 PM
#20
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Thanks everybody. I'll try and hit all the questions:
Yup, quasar blue metallic.
I'm using the stock throttle cable I cut the end off and scabbed on a new threaded end like these http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1271 to use with and end like this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5642 .
It works OK but it probably would have been easier just to get a new cable from the beginning. Though I was actually able to retain the cruise control cable and it still actually works!
For the fuel routing I just copied stock:
I didn't feel it was necessary to change it as long as I'm staying N/A. Here's a view of the back so you can see all the vacuum connections:
The big one on the intake goes to the PCV in the distributor hole, the big one on the TB goes to the brakes, the two on the sides get split off for everything else--FPR, MAP, heater, opti.
Yeah, it's very streetable. They dyno doesn't show it as I was rolling into the throttle in the 2500 range, but it has plenty down low to be drivable--I'd say it's nicer on the street than my cam only setup was years ago. Though I think much of the credit for that goes to the 4 BBL TB, with only two small butterflies doing the part throttle driving it's very easy to modulate.
Yeah, there's no doubt the top end has potential I'm not going to utilize without more cubes and/or RPM. One of these days....
It's Aeromotive, I can't remember the exact model--I think it's pretty much the same as everybody else runs but I can try and look it up in my notes.
They're available at most raceshops like here: http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category .
Though I'm not using them anymore (I actually need to plug that hole!) for my brakes since I've changed it to a front breather I now take in the air at the front with bigger ducts.
The one on the other side I still use for a PS cooler.
They're Ground Control coilovers. I think I've replaced various parts and gone through multiple sets of springs, but they still work.
If I was doing it again (and probably still will when I get the chance) I'd go with Unbalanced Engineering's setup as it's much better.
They started life as a Mov'it Porsche/Brembo conversion kit.
I've since made new brackets, spacers and am running bigger PFC floating rotors so all that really remains from the original kit are the Porsche calipers:
Those are plugging the dzus fastener holes for my splitter:
I made it all quick release so I don't have to run it on the street.
Yup, quasar blue metallic.
I'm using the stock throttle cable I cut the end off and scabbed on a new threaded end like these http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1271 to use with and end like this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5642 .
It works OK but it probably would have been easier just to get a new cable from the beginning. Though I was actually able to retain the cruise control cable and it still actually works!
I am curious how you routed the fuel lines in the back of the intake as I am in the process of doing a similar setup. Any pics would be appreciated.
I didn't feel it was necessary to change it as long as I'm staying N/A. Here's a view of the back so you can see all the vacuum connections:
The big one on the intake goes to the PCV in the distributor hole, the big one on the TB goes to the brakes, the two on the sides get split off for everything else--FPR, MAP, heater, opti.
It's Aeromotive, I can't remember the exact model--I think it's pretty much the same as everybody else runs but I can try and look it up in my notes.
Also where did you get the naca ducts for your brake cooler setup, I'd like to incorporate that into my setup, thanks?
Though I'm not using them anymore (I actually need to plug that hole!) for my brakes since I've changed it to a front breather I now take in the air at the front with bigger ducts.
The one on the other side I still use for a PS cooler.
If I was doing it again (and probably still will when I get the chance) I'd go with Unbalanced Engineering's setup as it's much better.
Also what brakes are those?
I've since made new brackets, spacers and am running bigger PFC floating rotors so all that really remains from the original kit are the Porsche calipers:
What are the rivets in the bumper for?
I made it all quick release so I don't have to run it on the street.