SStolen

iTrader: (22)

I have about 400rwhp, 315 nitto drag radials and a stock 10-bolt. Im no where close to having 2 grand for a 12bolt or 9inch so I am looking for tips on the best way to keep the stocker around as long as possible.

I mainly street race so I think If I just race from a roll I should never have a problem. But, I like to drag race and test mods at the local track. I might run 4 times a season, 3-5 times each.

First, I still have the stock 3.42 gears. Will I benefit from a TA Girdle? I'm told it keeps the ring and pinion from flexing, decreasing stress on the housing. Is this true? Is it worth it? What about the studs?

I would really like to run 4.10's but I know they are not strong. Is it the same with 3.73's, and is it even worth the money and possible whining?

I read a thread saying that it is alot safer if you preload your rear when launching. How exactly do you do this? I'm thinking heel and toe the clutch and brake? Could you still do this at higher rpm dumps, 3k-up? I would think it would burn up your clutch unless you lightly did it (I guess you have to find a happy medium.) Is this a reliable strategy? What is the highest rpm I could safely launch from?

Who are these guys with 100's of passes on their stock 10-bolt?

InsomZ

iTrader: (1)

same question here.. i've been scared to launch cause my friend took his ws6 to the track and launched on drag rads for the first time and destroyed the 10 bolt w/ a lil 1,800rpm dead hook

last time i went to the track i was scared to launch so i was just doing off idle 13.2's@108

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

you could technically preload your rear by using a linelock.

heel the brak, toe the gas and slip the clutch would do it, too. no matter how you do it you'll be heating up your clutch by slipping it out like that.

i ran the TA girdle for several years with 3.73 gears when i still had a 10 bolt. worked ok for me on a drag radial..had TONS of passes, some on 175 shot,too. we put the rearend as it was in my buddy's big stalled auto car on a slick and he destroyed the thing beyond recognition on like the second pass, shot parts through the TA gridle out onto the track.

MNSS

I have done so much research on this topic myself and here is what I have concluded. Take it for what its worth I guess. I broke my rear with a lazy 2.0 60 ft, I have 400 at the wheels myself, nothing special. Do not under any circumstances think that you can beef up the ten bolt, I dont care what anybody says they break, that has been the experiance of myself and my friends who like you are casual racers. I made 57 passes on my rear at the track before my luck ran out, two broken spyder gears. Yes there are things you can do to help such as upgraded axles, posi units and the cover. All this does in my opinion is give you a false sense of security and waste money on parts that are really a band aid fix to a real fundamental problem with the F bodys in respect to drag racing. If you have a m6 and you drag race you will break the stock rear. These guys with 100 or so passes on stock rears running good et's, well lets just put it this way, I have not seen one yet in a m6, not to say they are not out there but I have not seen one. Maybe you will get one to reply and in that case I want to know there secret. My point to this long post is I dont want you to waste good money on a ten bolt making it "stronger " like a friend of mine did only to keep breaking it. Best of luck

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

true. i broke mine twice on 2.0 sixties on 16" nittos. i stripped like half the teeth on the ring gear and then broke an Auburn posi, killed the spider gears. got tired of fixing it.

red fury

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I agree with the above...I have been running 4.10's in the stock 10 with my M6 leaving the line off idle running consistant 1.90's......until this past friday at the track when I decided I would slip the clutch (spec stage 3 carbon) but this clutch does not slip much if any and I hooked a bit go some wheel hop and booooooom! Striped 8 1/2 teeth of the ring gear. I did manage my best 60' that run it broke a 1.84 leaving around 2000rpm. Got the stock 3.42's back in for now.....maybe ever! I think Iam gonna keep the car on the street for a couple years and supercharge it.

Zo6Killer

Damn, GM doesn't build 'em like they used to!
My 8.5 10-Bolt with welded end-tubes and Moser 28-splines has survived everything that I can throw at it. Granted, I'm an auto(TH350), but I think that 3,200 foot-brakes on the street (on BFG DR's) should find a weak point somewhere!
My close friend has a 11.60 GN on the STOCK rear W/ only moser axles, rebuilt Eaton, and Girdle.
I'm scared to push the '98 Z knowing that the rear is the weak point. Damn.
I can't afford a new rear either, so I guess we'll see what breaks first, and then replace it.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

I had 4.10's in my 10 bolt for 2 years and over 100 passes before it broke. when I was stock internal and could only pull 1.88 60 ft's on Nittos and 1 year with 400 rwhp and no front sway bar , I learned how to pull 1.70's and did this for a year without failure. I went to the track one night and it was cold out and the track was prepped very good and I dumped at 4500 and pulled a 1.678 on 16 inch Nittos . worked fine so I went back and did it again , pulled another 1.678 and when I made the turnoff at the end of the track there was a clunking in the rear. It turned out to be spider gears. Point is if you set up a rear to be dead quiet , it will blow. Set it up with alittle more contact patch and the ring and pinion should hold alittle better.
If you want to race, Try leaving at 4000 rpms on Nittos after a good burn out and dump the clutch but dont gas on it untill it jumps alittle , then gas on it when you feel it grab and start to bog. This makes it hook good because you are not shocking the Nittos and in turn you are not shocking the rearend.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

rear ends break cause of the initial jolt and shock you give them when you release the clutch.

i can get away with my 10 bolt cause i'm an auto. well not for long I will have close to 600hp soon.

Raben

iTrader: (5)

How safe are autos on the 10-bolt rear for Drag Racing. I have a 3500 TCI superstreet fighter stall and soon BFG Drag Radials. Will the rear hold on a decent launch?

I've hadn't had any trouble with the street tires but thats because I feather it out. I want to be able to punch it and go but the rear will go as well right?

Or should hold up?