BAN WS6

I posted a while back about replacing my clutch, ended up going with a Monster Stage 2. Thanks everyone who helped me out, really appreciate it. Now I've got a whole new problem. My clutch pedal is occasionally wanting to stick to the floor and allowing the clutch to engage. Happened to me a couple times last night when I was stopped with the clutch held in. The car started to slowly creep forward and was hard to pop in or out of gear. It was then I lost the clutch pedal and had to reach down and physically pull it back up. A couple times I was playing with throwing the shifter in and out of gear while stopped at a light. Once or twice it started to get more difficult but then the light went green so I took off. When I releaseed the clutch it was sluggish about half way out but then suddenly popped all the way back up. I haven't noticed any leaks underneath the car and the reservoir is staying full. I've been doing some reading and found that most people have problems at high RPM when the slave is going out but at the moment, it's only giving me hell when I'm feathering the clutch in traffic or just stopped with the clutch pedal depressed. These problems all started right after I had my clutch replaced, so I'm hoping maybe it wasn't bled 100% I'm not in a situation where I can't drop the tranny myself and I'm a little tight on money so if it is the slave, that's bad news. I'm just trying to determine if there's anything I need to check before I take the bastard back into the shop.

Also, don't think it's related but the clutch is making a noise right as it's engaged and on hard down shifts. I did some reading up on that and even found a video on here that shows a GTO with the same issue. After reading I'm 99% sure the clutch is simply glazed as they call it. Not sure if it matters just want to give you guys the whole picture.

strokerrace

iTrader: (8)

Then deglaze it the monster way ha. From what ive read you just dump it one good time and itll clean it off.

WS6_101

iTrader: (5)

had a similar problem with my car .. pedal would stick all the way down at lights and would have to pull it back up, sometimes with the clutch pushed in if I let off the brakes it would start to move forward like an automatic .. had no leaks or anything .. ended up replacing the master cylinder with a Tick and the problem was solved

BAN WS6

I'll try replacing the master cylinder, hopefully it's just that. I'm honestly about ready to just sell the car and be done with this ****. I miss the old school cars where everything wasn't so crammed together and hard to access. I remember when I used to actually like working on my vehicles, now I'm starting to despise it. I'll give the master cylinder a shot, bleed it and see where I'm at thanks for the advice. As far as dumping it I tried that a few times, only at about 2500 RPM. It seemed like it helped but then another few miles of driving it it the noise was right back. This car is pretty much babied for the most part and I don't think I should have to beat the **** out of it and risk ******* up other components just so my clutch, which cost me 800 bucks, won't make noise.

hivoltagedriver

iTrader: (1)

Definitely sounds like a master cylinder problem. The chatering as it's called is fairly normal with the Monster clutches (and a lot of other performance clutches for that matter). Beat on it a little and it will go away.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I'd say master.

Keep in mind that glazing is caused by riding the clutch, in your case if the unit is not being allowed to completely disengage because of the master it's being glazed. This is where your noise is coming from.

Call us if you need more help!

Blwn_by_Twins

iTrader: (6)

Air in the system. Get a new M/C and bleed the **** out of it.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Post pics.

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

just give it to me. ill trade you for a ford pinto low miles ;-)

jarretthise

iTrader: (9)

maybe you didnt bleed it all the way and youve still got air in the line.. they take a while to bleed and when you think youre done, you arent..

if you really think you bled it good, then buy a new master, if that doesnt solve the issue, well come back and ask..

Chicken Coupe

iTrader: (2)

It's the clutch master.

93z28ltfun

before you run it off that cliff can i get that trans? lol

BAN WS6

So I see a lot about his Tick master cylinder but I'm not sure I want to blow 300 bucks on it if it's not what I really need. I don't mind paying for quality but then again I don't need equipment intended for race applications. This is a street car that occasionally gets kicked in the *** for some fun. Other than some exhaust modifications and maybe a cam and intake it's going to stay pretty much stock. I just would like a good aftermarket master cylinder that will hold up to daily driving and maybe a little more. If it's the Tick brand, then that's what I'll get, but I don't want to overkill it if I don't have to.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Your hydraulics will never work right until they're air free and, as far as higher-rpm shifts, drill-modded.

JMD method to get the air out. It's cheap, it's easy, it's quick and nearly free besides supplies.

Inspect the slave & master for any leaks as well.

If, after bleeding it that way and it's working and you can hold the pedal down for a good length of time w/out the clutch re-engaging, then the master is likely fine. If not, that Tick unit sure has a good rep.

nmass399

so, was the slave cylinder replaced when the clutch was replaced? If so was it an oem slave?

BAN WS6

I got the premium package for the Stage 2 Monster clutch and it says that it included the slave cylinder. I had a local shop do the actual work.

Metal Muscle

And everything's dandy now?

PROFESSORCHAOS

I was having the exact same issues listed, went with monster stage2 and new tick master, and my shifts coudn't be better, ******* butter!

PROFESSORCHAOS

seriously

PROFESSORCHAOS

lololol