Built Your own Watts Link?
07-29-2011, 11:32 AM
#1
Built Your own Watts Link? I'm curiou as tp why no one buys a universal whats link and builds there own, there are alot of universal kits out there and pretty common in the lowered trucks guys. Some of them are even using junkyard parts from pt cruisers and durangos, they come with watt links.
What makes ours so difficult, limited space?
What makes ours so difficult, limited space?
07-29-2011, 12:47 PM
#3
To your first point, I'm sure people have. This isn't pro-touring though, so you probably see less of the personal fabrication side. It's just more convenient to buy and install something that has all the details worked out for most.
To the second question I think that has to do with packaging and installation. A frame that reuses the PHB mounts was the way to go.
To the second question I think that has to do with packaging and installation. A frame that reuses the PHB mounts was the way to go.
07-29-2011, 01:18 PM
#4
I figured you would use the phb mount to mount the links,
From what i can gather about the only details that need ironed out are getting the links close to parallel.
And im not talking about custom dab im talking about unversal kit, not making it all yourslef.
From what i can gather about the only details that need ironed out are getting the links close to parallel.
And im not talking about custom dab im talking about unversal kit, not making it all yourslef.
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07-29-2011, 01:36 PM
#8
There is a long debate about the value of having the bell crank mounted on the axle or on the frame, and whether having the roll center move with the axle or the frame is better. As to which is stronger, they're capable of being equally strong, and you can see both used on a variety of platforms.
07-29-2011, 05:30 PM
#9
The bars on a Watts link DO NOT have to be level, they just have to be the opposite of each other.
If one bar is angled 5*, the other should be angled 5* also (both angled up, both level, or both angled down, doesnt matter what combo) Both bars also have to be the exact same length.
If the bars aren't "equal but opposite" the system will give you the same problems at a panhard bar, possibly even worse .... just like if you were running a 1/2 length panhard
Its a combination of unsprung weight, space, ane how much effort you want to pit into it. If the bellcrank is chassis mounted the only unsprung weight added to the suspension is equal to the weight of one of the links. Chassis mounted setups require a framework to support the pivot though
Either system functions the same though
edit: one benifit of counting it to the chassis side of things is that since bellcrank center becoames the instant roll center, you can usually get a lower IRC via chassis mounted.
Mumford links are the next step up for axle centering, allowing an IRC thats below ground level, but a mumford link will bind if done at all wrong
If one bar is angled 5*, the other should be angled 5* also (both angled up, both level, or both angled down, doesnt matter what combo) Both bars also have to be the exact same length.
If the bars aren't "equal but opposite" the system will give you the same problems at a panhard bar, possibly even worse .... just like if you were running a 1/2 length panhard
One thing that has me confused about our watts link is the huge piece thats used to mount the bell crank. How come no one mounts the bell crank off the axle like on every other watts link Ive seen.
Either system functions the same though
edit: one benifit of counting it to the chassis side of things is that since bellcrank center becoames the instant roll center, you can usually get a lower IRC via chassis mounted.
Mumford links are the next step up for axle centering, allowing an IRC thats below ground level, but a mumford link will bind if done at all wrong
Last edited by HotRodKid; 07-29-2011 at 07:08 PM.
07-29-2011, 06:55 PM
#10
Im thinking about taking on of these universal kits and mocking it up and solving the problems for Fbodies. You know being able to say the links need to x inches long mount the bellcrank here etc etc etc.
A question I have is on the 4th gens what do you do with the bar that runs from the panhard bar mount to the body. Seems like it'd be in the way of the links. Would you remove or is it neccesary an you'd have to make one that allowed more clearance?
Image for clarification
I know on Fays kit they use that brace to mount the bell crank and the brace does away with the bar but what about when the bell crank is mounted to the rear end and the links runs to the panhard mount?
A question I have is on the 4th gens what do you do with the bar that runs from the panhard bar mount to the body. Seems like it'd be in the way of the links. Would you remove or is it neccesary an you'd have to make one that allowed more clearance?
Image for clarification
I know on Fays kit they use that brace to mount the bell crank and the brace does away with the bar but what about when the bell crank is mounted to the rear end and the links runs to the panhard mount?
07-29-2011, 07:22 PM
#12
Center of the diff isnt a bad spot for the roll center, the fox body mustangs (and everything that shared that exact rear suspension) had their rear roll center somewhere near the headrests for the back seat .... not at all a good spot
Theres also another version of the watts link, i forget the name, but the arms are arranged in a "F" shape. The bottom of the upright is the axle pivot, and the 2 horizontal bars go to the frame on the same side ... and they are slightly different lengths
A handy design if you want to push the roll center lower or want clearance for something like exhaust on one side of the car
Theres also another version of the watts link, i forget the name, but the arms are arranged in a "F" shape. The bottom of the upright is the axle pivot, and the 2 horizontal bars go to the frame on the same side ... and they are slightly different lengths
A handy design if you want to push the roll center lower or want clearance for something like exhaust on one side of the car
07-31-2011, 05:43 PM
#16
Here's one, but I can't find the one mentioning the Steeda bolt shearing twice, but it's on the same site, in a thread where Strano is in too... Sam also mentions in another thread there that he prefers the NON-diff mounted Watts Link...
http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...s-link-473726/
http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...s-link-473726/
