People who had transmission problems. Come in.
07-30-2011, 07:27 PM
#1
People who had transmission problems. Come in. So Today I re solder my bcm thinking it would fix the problem, it didnt. My bcm turns off for a mini sec making the lights on my dash blink for a few seconds, and then the air bag light stays flashing on for a couple secs. My car is not responding the same way it use to. when I have it on drive, 1st gear seems a bit long, jumps hard into 2nd, smooth onto 3rd and fourth. When I press the pedal all the way, theres no responce, or kick.
I know I will need to buy a new bcm. any of you know where I can get a killer deal?
Im getting my transmisison checked out on tuesday.
My question is... what type of reactions have you had from your car when the transmission starts going out.
I know I will need to buy a new bcm. any of you know where I can get a killer deal?
Im getting my transmisison checked out on tuesday.
My question is... what type of reactions have you had from your car when the transmission starts going out.
07-30-2011, 10:50 PM
#2
When a tranny usually goes out it slips. Why would you even attempt to fix a computer if you have no clue of the affect? I sure wouldn't touch one. So did you "fix" your BCM or PMC? You hve to remember that all computer work together and need each other. If you created more resistance then needed then you might of damaged something in there. These parts are very sensitive. What excatly did you solder?
07-31-2011, 04:35 AM
#3
When a tranny usually goes out it slips. Why would you even attempt to fix a computer if you have no clue of the affect? I sure wouldn't touch one. So did you "fix" your BCM or PMC? You hve to remember that all computer work together and need each other. If you created more resistance then needed then you might of damaged something in there. These parts are very sensitive. What excatly did you solder?
I asked in the electronics section said that the T that forms in the back of the BCM the bottom port has a hairline crack. Said to solder it and it should be good. seems its still the same thing.
I think im just gonna go ahead and purchase a new one. any of you have recommendations to where I can get one? It would help alot.
07-31-2011, 12:30 PM
#5
No thats not it. some guys on here said that its not just a plug and play thing. The bcm needs to be somewhat identical to the one originally off your car in order to work, if not, youll have to get the vin # of the car from the new used bcm, and get a new key made, in order to start.
07-31-2011, 12:45 PM
#6
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No thats not it. some guys on here said that its not just a plug and play thing. The bcm needs to be somewhat identical to the one originally off your car in order to work, if not, youll have to get the vin # of the car from the new used bcm, and get a new key made, in order to start.
07-31-2011, 01:52 PM
#7
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You just cant swap out to any used BCM because the resistor value will be different. He has to get a unused BCM and program it with his key to work. or he can just bypass the VATS from his pcm and use any bcm he wants. AND technically the computers don't "need" each other they are just networked to each other to process outputs through their inputs. You don't need a BCM for the car to run if you tell it that the BCM is not longer there (VATS Disable).
Last edited by XpEdItIoUs; 07-31-2011 at 01:58 PM.
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07-31-2011, 02:42 PM
#8
Bcm also controls other things not just the vats system. And yes a lot of vehicles now a days have computers that communicate with each other to work properly. Our cars are pretty sofisticated even if they are old Junkers. And yes I understand that the vats are different but all you really need is to disable it.
07-31-2011, 04:31 PM
#9
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No **** BCM controls Anti-theft, retained accessory power, warning system, keyless entry, and keyless trunk release. You said the pcm "needs" the BCM to work. My car dose not have a BCM, EBCM, ABS, or SDM and my PCM still works like it should. I wasn't telling him he should ditch his BCM, I was trying to tell you that a PCM does not need a BCM to "work" as long as you disable the VATS from the PCM.
Last edited by XpEdItIoUs; 07-31-2011 at 04:38 PM.
07-31-2011, 04:36 PM
#10
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When a tranny usually goes out it slips. Why would you even attempt to fix a computer if you have no clue of the affect? I sure wouldn't touch one. So did you "fix" your BCM or PMC? You hve to remember that all computer work together and need each other. If you created more resistance then needed then you might of damaged something in there. These parts are very sensitive. What excatly did you solder?
07-31-2011, 04:45 PM
#11
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Bcm also controls other things not just the vats system. And yes a lot of vehicles now a days have computers that communicate with each other to work properly. Our cars are pretty sofisticated even if they are old Junkers. And yes I understand that the vats are different but all you really need is to disable it.
07-31-2011, 06:16 PM
#12
So Today I re solder my bcm thinking it would fix the problem, it didnt. My bcm turns off for a mini sec making the lights on my dash blink for a few seconds, and then the air bag light stays flashing on for a couple secs. My car is not responding the same way it use to. when I have it on drive, 1st gear seems a bit long, jumps hard into 2nd, smooth onto 3rd and fourth. When I press the pedal all the way, theres no responce, or kick.
I know I will need to buy a new bcm. any of you know where I can get a killer deal?
Im getting my transmisison checked out on tuesday.
My question is... what type of reactions have you had from your car when the transmission starts going out.
I know I will need to buy a new bcm. any of you know where I can get a killer deal?
Im getting my transmisison checked out on tuesday.
My question is... what type of reactions have you had from your car when the transmission starts going out.
07-31-2011, 06:41 PM
#13
Make sure its not overpressurizing the lines in the trans. I had a bad ecu that had been damaged by leaking battery acid (common problems on C5s with the og battery). The bad ecu was causing the trans to shift hard and the trans fliud was seeing almost 300psi. I broke 2 input drums before finding the issue. I replaced the ecu and the problem dissappeared.
08-01-2011, 02:17 AM
#16
You just cant swap out to any used BCM because the resistor value will be different. He has to get a unused BCM and program it with his key to work. or he can just bypass the VATS from his pcm and use any bcm he wants. AND technically the computers don't "need" each other they are just networked to each other to process outputs through their inputs. You don't need a BCM for the car to run if you tell it that the BCM is not longer there (VATS Disable).
08-01-2011, 10:34 AM
#18
See first read what you write before you replay to my quote. It seems like your still in school learning about basic electrical and modules, BTW it's "PCM" (Powertrain Control Module) not "PMC". And we are not talking about other newer cars here we are talking about our old junkers as you call them.
. And I was just saying in general, that now a days lots of cars work like that. I don't study the Fbody much since it's not what I work with. Thanks for the info btw.
08-01-2011, 11:52 AM
#20
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Looks like your a little hurt. I know it's PCM. Just a typo! And no I'm not in school for this. This was back in 09 . And I was just saying in general, that now a days lots of cars work like that. I don't study the Fbody much since it's not what I work with. Thanks for the info btw.
. And I was just saying in general, that now a days lots of cars work like that. I don't study the Fbody much since it's not what I work with. Thanks for the info btw.https://ls1tech.com/forums/western-m...lp-me-out.html
Last edited by XpEdItIoUs; 08-01-2011 at 12:10 PM.