BlueStreak362

iTrader: (8)

hey guys, im new to spray but read up on the stickies and still have a few questions. First off, the car is not a DD, merely a fun weekend car, i baught a NOS wet nozzle kit from a friend for next to nothing, Heres my set up first off : LQ4, prc stage 3 ls6s milled(approx 10.75:1 CR), custom grind cam + supporting valvtrain, ported 102/102, arp rod/head bolts, FIC 42lb injectors + bolt ons. Guessing around 470-480whp, still on stock fuel pump. My 42s are at 83% IDC @ 6500(running 93), would I need to upgrade to 60s? , also im sure im pushing the limits of the stock pump. Should i go with a racetronix kit before even spraying?. Would a 100 shot be pushing the bottom end?(guessing it would be close to 580-600whp). Also should i switch to a TR6 plug before spraying? car has tr55s now. It has 27 deg right now, i was going to take it down around 24 and then look at how the plugs look and go from there. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

TSAEB

iTrader: (5)

I would go with the walbro and kit just for it na needs and especially for nitrous.

Graham@NitrousOutlet

With a wet system, the injectors only support the motor. They do not increase IDC on nitrous.

I would not spray the car without at least a racetronix setup. No way would I trust a stock pump at that power level. Remember that thing is over 11 years old now.

You need to be on a tr6 on motor probably. For any nitrous you need to be on a br7ef NGK#3346.

Timing will depend on the size shot. Before we get to that, what all does the system consist off that you have so far? Want to make sure you have all the needed components.

BlueStreak362

iTrader: (8)

True, i am going to order the racetronix kit and BR7efs. I have a 10lb bottle(with mounting brackets, all steel braided lines that came in the kit, both solenoids, nozzle(jetted for 125 shot, need to get jet pt # for 75 or 100 shot), microswitch. I believe i still need a purge, blanket, remote opener(i know not a necessity but id like to have). Id also like to get a pressure guage with a single pod to put on my pillar. I also have speed inc budget rails, so i was just going to do a 3/8ths NPT - 6AN conversion 90* elbow, then put a 6AN female to 4AN male onto that, and run the braided line to the solenoid. Is there anything else i should look into? also as far as a shot goes, do you think a 100 shot would be safe? givin the already power level and it is still a stock bottom end with ARP stuff. Thanks!

Graham@NitrousOutlet

Tuned Properly there is no reason you can not put 100hp to it.

BlueStreak362

iTrader: (8)

I do my own tuning(have done several h/c cars) and a few h/c/i. But never played with a nitrous car, I should not really need to richen the car up for a wet shot correct?(12.8-12.9 is where i have have it now for NA), i was thinking possibly richen it a little to 12.4-12.5 to play it safe? also i know about the 2-3* rule for every 50 shot.. Would that be a safe bet to get started?

Graham@NitrousOutlet

You tune nitrous off of the plugs. AFR are going to very a lot but they need to be richer than a motor tune up for sure. In the high 11's low 12's.

BlueStreak362

iTrader: (8)

Thats what i figured, i just wasnt sure how much i would need to change it with the kit being wet. Thanks for all the help!

tittan1500

iTrader: (8)

Pull your plugs and timing , jet small and work your way up. and you will be golden .

If your on stock pistons and flycut you might have issues tho, myself and a friend both cracked the ringland right where the valve pocket was cut with safe nitrous setups.

BlueStreak362

iTrader: (8)

The cam is a .603/.609 113+2 so i did not need to flycutt. is it possible that you floated a valve and hit the relief? not sure why nitrous would cause a ptv issue, im interested in hearing about this though. Thanks

tittan1500

iTrader: (8)

it was not a ptv issue, the piston gets super thin where the valve pocket was cut and is close to the ring groove and because its thin, they break