Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

So since everyone including ARP told me to re do the heads with lube AND sealant then I'll do this tomorrow. I was also advised to clean the block threads out. Ok fine, but with what? The block is pretty fresh with only ARP ultra-torque lube so it shouldn't be too bad but I'll need something to get down in the holes with.

Also, since the head gaskets are only bolted down and never used, do I still have to replace them? Thanx

Dave357LT1

Get a old head bolt and cut a groove in the threads with a dremel/grinder and use that

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Yes if you separate the pressure entirely from the head gasket.. their cashed .they start out at one thickness and crush to another during tightening to seal, if you going to remove the entirely use a tap to chase the threads, Or if you haven't put sealant on them just pull one at a time add sealant and retorque.
E

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

This is a cheap method, but I used thread chasers. They are similar to taps, but do not have the edge on them to actually cut. They just shape the threads back into position and clean gunk at the same time. You can also follow up with a bottle brush and some kind of solvent like break cleaner. This is what I did.

Also even though your block might have been cleaned by a machine shop, (hot tanked or pressure washed) the threads can still be dirty. Some of the books I have read recommend doing this prior to handing block over to machine shop to help minimize contamination of surfaces with grit near a fresh build.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

I have used a slotted head bolt and thread chaser and never had a problem with either...

Do not reuse the gaskets.... grab you some victor reinz and call it a day

Matt

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Ugh. What an expensive mistake this is turning out to be. Thanx for the help guys.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

If you just need to add sealer to the bolts you *could* pull one bolt at a time and throw sealer on it and put it back in and re torque and then move to the next.... then you would not need to replace the gaskets...

Not the most ideal way but it would work....

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You don't want to use a thread tap. The correct tool is a thread chaser.

Over time through tightening and loosening, threads can become slightly distorted in the block. If you use a tap, instead of reshaping the threads you end up cutting them and actually make the threads weaker. A chaser simply reshapes the existing metal instead of removing it. It also helps to remove the gunk left in the threads. Use a light oil when chasing also. Do your best to vacuum out any dislodged gunk too.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

The poor mans method is with a steel bolt, Put a little grease as to catch any minor debris that it might clean from you threads..

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

7/16-14 tap and a little oil on it too hold the dirt/grime/metal in the relief cuts. Then brake clean the holes so they're dry and clean. edit Or as Joe says a chaser

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

This might not be a bad idea, and would save you some work. If you did this you might want to drain coolant. I would just follow the torque pattern when pulling bolt by bolt.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

It's a freshly rebuilt shortblock on an engine stand. I am considering going bolt by bolt. Question is, which ones are dry threads and which ones aren't. This might save me some time.

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

Cant remember exactly, but I believe its the lower edge bolts but I think there are more. When doing my build I just did a light coating on all of them. I actually had to go back and pull head because I laid it on too thick the 1st time. (expensive as this caused me needing to use a new gasket.)

Since this is on the stand, this will be much easier.

Midnite Magic

Thread chaser ( arp, summit or tool truck ) or grind an old bolt FREE