kissrocker1200

i am following the write-up on michigan speed to remove the engine from below.
when i am disconnecting the brake lines, where am i disconnecting from? the calipers?
if so, do i unroute the brake lines after?

merim123

iTrader: (11)

disconnect from your ABS, leave them connected at the wheels. the lines will drop down with the kmember

kissrocker1200

and thatd be the big silver unit in the front of the engine bay on the driver side with a few metal lines running to it, right?
and not the one that has the resivor connected to it

merim123

iTrader: (11)

trace the line from the brake caliper back into the engine compartment, the first place you can disconnect it is where you want to disconnect it.

TIIMuch

iTrader: (20)

You'll have to have someone close to carefully help thread them past/through/under/over the other engine compartment lines/cables and WHY as you lower the subframe.

kissrocker1200

thanks alot! very much appreciated

kissrocker1200

the nuts wont move at all, anybody got an idea they used?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Use line wrenches. The fittings are metric IIRC.

kissrocker1200

if i cut these off, what would i be looking at to replace them?

squeals99

iTrader: (8)

wouldn't cut them off... if you cut them then to do it right you would have to reroute new brake lines or rig it and put compression fitting on it... if you cant get them with line wrenches you may have to go a different route... maybe some vise grips or something, but i'd try line wrenches first for sure

they were a PITA to get off the first time, but they'll come off... try letting some pb blaster soak on them too

kissrocker1200

i tried line wrenches and vice grips
this is last resort

Sc0tt30

iTrader: (6)

You would probably need to get new brake lines with the correct fittings. As suggested try the line wrenches first before you cut the line.

food nd cars

Just disconnect from your master cylinder and let it all hang. Just disconnect the larger brake line from the ABS, the one that goes to the rear brakes. Is a larger diameter and you should be able to get that one off. Let it all hang with the engine and try not to bend the hard lines that much.

kissrocker1200

is this actually safe to put my chains where it says to in the write-up?
the horn would be directly under the chains on the pass and what appears to be an ecu on the driver side. i put the chains on the other side of the hole, and it bent the metal some so i stopped.
so i guess what im asking is where is the best place to put the chains to lift the car?
attached is my set up

merim123

iTrader: (11)

wrap it through the holes on both sides, make it tighter though, you have too much slack. look in my pic, see how low i hook it (my ceiling is short, so I need all the room I can get)

kissrocker1200

it needs to be tight before you start raising it?
this pic is with the engine hoist down

kissrocker1200

and i am wrapping the chain in a good spot?

kissrocker1200

is the radiator support on the bottom of the car strong enough to be my lifting point?

jb442

iTrader: (4)

Just a little friendly safety advice... The grab hook should go over a link in the chain, and not through it.

Even though the weight you're trying to lift is probably far under the rating of the hook, you don't want the tip to break off. That might ruin your day.

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

You've got the chain in the right spot.


And you dont wana cut those lines, you'll be epicly pissed off when you have to replace them from the dealer and/or try and double flare them with new fittings. Life sucks with small hardline and flare tools.