my slave cylinder went out!! help
#1
Staging Lane
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my slave cylinder went out!! help
so since i have to drop my tranny now i was thinking might aswell replace the clutch while im in there.. any recommendations on what clutch kit to get or the things i have to replace so i wont run into any related issues down the road?
car info: 2000 Camaro Z28 M6 94k miles
Mods: bolt ons, Pacesetter LT's, ORY No Cats, SLP lid, LM1
thanks guys
car info: 2000 Camaro Z28 M6 94k miles
Mods: bolt ons, Pacesetter LT's, ORY No Cats, SLP lid, LM1
thanks guys
#2
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Clutch Kit- many out there, buy a good one. Monster seems to be a common choice now a days. I run a Textraila OZ-700 which IMO is one of the best street/strip clutches ever made... Period but not cheap. There will be people out there recommending other clutches like RAM, GM LS7, as well as SPEC. IMO I would do some research in the Manual Section...
Slave- GM Dealership, get one for a 2002 (GM updated them later one)
Clutch Master- Tick Performance Adj. (you really do need this, stock wont cut it and it has miles on it)
Misc- Pilot Bearing, DOT 3/4 fluid, Tools to remove the trans, jack stands, extre people to lend a hand, clutch alignment tool (if it did not come with the kit). Transmission fluid (might as well do it with nearly 100k)
Gravity Bleed the Clutch Master to the slave, no need to bench bleed, and use the 2 person method of bleeding the slave. NO PUMPING of the clutch. Have someone push down, crack the bleeder, then tighten, repeat. Add fluid at 3rd crack of the bleeder, should have solid pedal by the 4th or 5th crack.
IMO you do need a lift and if you have access to one then use it. If not you need to get the car as high as you can, remove the TQ arm, Driveshaft, and using hyd. jacks lower the trans tail shaft down and with air tools with correct extentions and swivels get the trans to bell housing bolts (pull trans) and then bell housing by itself, then clutch and flywheel.
Slave- GM Dealership, get one for a 2002 (GM updated them later one)
Clutch Master- Tick Performance Adj. (you really do need this, stock wont cut it and it has miles on it)
Misc- Pilot Bearing, DOT 3/4 fluid, Tools to remove the trans, jack stands, extre people to lend a hand, clutch alignment tool (if it did not come with the kit). Transmission fluid (might as well do it with nearly 100k)
Gravity Bleed the Clutch Master to the slave, no need to bench bleed, and use the 2 person method of bleeding the slave. NO PUMPING of the clutch. Have someone push down, crack the bleeder, then tighten, repeat. Add fluid at 3rd crack of the bleeder, should have solid pedal by the 4th or 5th crack.
IMO you do need a lift and if you have access to one then use it. If not you need to get the car as high as you can, remove the TQ arm, Driveshaft, and using hyd. jacks lower the trans tail shaft down and with air tools with correct extentions and swivels get the trans to bell housing bolts (pull trans) and then bell housing by itself, then clutch and flywheel.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 08-23-2011 at 07:32 AM.
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Very good advice in the above post.
I would add one more thing to the list. Purchase a Remote Bleeder Line from TICK or one of the other Sponsors.
You will still need 2 People to bleed the Master & Slave (unless of course you get a very long line), but this routes the Bleeder under the hood rather than having to crawl under the car or the need to take a hole saw to the Tranny Hump in your Floorpan to access the Bleeder on the Slave. This also eliminates getting fluid all over the inside of the Bellhousing, due to the fact that you can place the end of the line inside a container.
Good luck, man.
I would add one more thing to the list. Purchase a Remote Bleeder Line from TICK or one of the other Sponsors.
You will still need 2 People to bleed the Master & Slave (unless of course you get a very long line), but this routes the Bleeder under the hood rather than having to crawl under the car or the need to take a hole saw to the Tranny Hump in your Floorpan to access the Bleeder on the Slave. This also eliminates getting fluid all over the inside of the Bellhousing, due to the fact that you can place the end of the line inside a container.
Good luck, man.
#4
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (20)
Thanks to the two posters above for keeping us in mind!
We designed our Complete Clutch Swap Package to be the best shifting, most reliable and most valuable Clutch/Hydraulic setup available today. It comes with EVERYTHING you should replace at the same time as a clutch, and we package it all together at a discounted price: http://www.tickperformance.com/ls1-f...-swap-package/
Let us know if you have any questions!
We designed our Complete Clutch Swap Package to be the best shifting, most reliable and most valuable Clutch/Hydraulic setup available today. It comes with EVERYTHING you should replace at the same time as a clutch, and we package it all together at a discounted price: http://www.tickperformance.com/ls1-f...-swap-package/
Let us know if you have any questions!
#5
Staging Lane
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Thanks a lot guys! really appriciate the advice but im getting it done at a shop im thinking on going with the centerforce dual friction & after looking at all the positive feedback on "Tick performance Master cylinder" im ordering it tonite!
Thanks Blackscreamingmachine! i will order that slave cylinder
can i use my stock flywheel?
Thanks Blackscreamingmachine! i will order that slave cylinder
can i use my stock flywheel?
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#8
FormerVendor
iTrader: (15)
Our clutch kits come with a new billet flywheel (opt for the lighter one to save some weight and free up some power to the wheels) so you don't have to resurface your old one or worry about it beign thick enough and needing a shim or if it will hold up to the more aggressive aftermarket friction material (see exploding flywheel videos on youtube). The bleeder helps to ease initial install and is an easy way to ensure the fluid stays fresh over time. Feel free to contact me with any questions you may have. Chris, 817-750-2000
#9
LS1TECH Sponsor
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The alignment tool is also a nice thing to bring with the clutch in case the shop doesn't have one. It only makes up ~$2.00 worth of the cost so not a significant savings to leave out.