_max_POWER

iTrader: (11)

Well the time has come for me to dive into my car and I'm still on the fence about how I will do it.
I'm going to be installing a full H/C package with new lifters/trays/oil pump so i know i have a lot of work ahead of me. I would just like to make it as easy on myself as possible.
So guys how did you do it? Would you do it the same way again? Any tips or tricks?

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Do it in the car and invest in some ratchet wrench's

SSANIMAL

iTrader: (10)

I know it seems like a lot of work but i would just drop the motor from the bottom and get everything done right the first time. good luck with your build whatever you choose

sedanman

iTrader: (10)

If you have access to a lift, drop the motor out. If you don't its easier to do it in the car.

afastm6

iTrader: (1)

I just done mine in the car it wasnt to bad just tight u have a few bloody knuckles

brianw401

iTrader: (4)

I did mine in the car, but I have a corvette. A ton easier!

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

im in the process of swapping heads (fixing a blown gasket started it all) and putting in everything in my sig. im doing it with the motor in the car, its not as bad as i thought it would be, my process was slowed drastically by not having money for parts. after three months im just getting ready to put everything back together. the hardest stuff is really the little stuff like people mention on this site. the (auto)transmission dipstick bolt on the passenger side cylinder head was a PAIN IN THE *** for me, my hands just didnt want to fit back there. the oil pick up tube bolt is also just as crappy to get on/off as people say, it takes patience, and a whole lot of F this and F that ..........i might ad, just be carefull when you remove/install your balancer, there seems to be a lot of threads about people getting bolts stuck in the crankshaft or stripping bolts one way or the other. i have not installed mine yet, im waiting until i get money for the special ls balancer installer but i didnt have any trouble getting it off with a 3 jaw puller, the 3 jaw puller removed the crankshaft sprocket pretty easily also. if there's anything crazy on the rebuild i will let you know, good luck!

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

In the car. Unless you have like a shop-type garage (i.e. Huge floor plan and space to work) with all the right tools, in car is the only option. If you're doing in a typical attached to your house garage, you'll have all of 3 ft from your front bumper to the wall behind you. So basically no room to work, no room for a cherry picker, and no room period. In the car is the way to go.

_max_POWER

iTrader: (11)

Well what sucks is that i actually work for an auto dealer but our service manager isn't exactly excited about the idea of me spending a few days with one of his bays taken up by my car.
Thanks for your imput guys.

LeftySS

iTrader: (17)

In the car isn't bad at all. Just make sure you can take your time, you don't want to do this in a hurry.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Drop it out the bottom and save your back. I did it in a one car garage and a cherry picker. It's so much nicer having the whole thing out to work on.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

^**** that clusterfuck. Doing it in car now as we speak in a detached two car. Not really a big deal at all. IMO, its easier out if you have a shop-type environment. But moreso personal preference if you don't.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

in the car, imo for a head and cam swap its a lil much to pull the motor, i mean you mise well just go ahead and swap to a 6.0 if your gonna pull it lol

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

I would not drop the motor for H/C. I did head swap 3x and its very doable even for a beginner wrencher.

1of625

I'm with him↑↑↑↑especially if you have a cherry picker.

It is 100% easier on your back,,hands,,patients,,and fenders. Along with being able to go ahead and replace the motor mounts,,and all the engine gaskets wile the engine is out.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

It's not horrible working in the engine bay, you just take your time working around stuff and disassembly. To be honest, by the time your done if doing a CAM ONLY swap is an Intake (which is cake) and cyl head bolt and off comes the heads.

I did not have money or avalible cyl heads to toss on my motor, but I was almost willing to leave the car apart and go looking lol.

The only issue you may run into is getting the heads back on if you use studs like ARP has which is the strongest or go with ARP bolts but if the motor tends to come apart often, studs are the way to go but may interfere with the shock towers.

But in the end your doing work, how much depends on what you like to mess around with.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Also to mention, the only real reason why tend to want to drop the motor is due to the cowl and other misc stuff in the way, if we had engines bays like GTO's, C5/6 vettes, G8's this would not even be a topical thread.

Steve Gunn

In car.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I've never taken one automotive class and the most involved thing I did before my H/C swap was full exhaust. I did it with the motor in the car, but I sure wouldn't want to do it again any time soon!

_max_POWER

iTrader: (11)

Yeah guys it looks like I'm going to be wrenching with the motor in the car. Now i know this is completely off topic but I have to decide what cam to use. I have 2 right now and now is crunch time for me to decide what I'm going to use.
Cams in question are:
FM11 228/230 on a 114 or HPE S 238/240 on a 112
full setup:
stock 243 heads
lunati gold valvespring kit
pushrods sized to my needs
ls7 lifters
ls6 intake
arh 1 7/8" longtubes/ARH ory/Borla
new oil pump etc etc
stock 3.42 for NOW
+bottle in the near future (have kit already)
Car is my daily driver and honestly i KNOW the F11 is definitely going to be more daily friendly. I just dont want to regret not going bigger after its all said and done. I want to make 400+ with plenty of usable torque.