Bear

iTrader: (1)

I am in need of some real rubber for my car. I am currently running the 26x10.5x16 ET Street. I am spinning right thru these tires. I am going to order a matching set of Bogart Welded RT's in 15x9.75 for the new rear rims. How do I know what tire size I need?

26x10.5x15
28x10.5x15

There are also different compound types for Hoosier and MT. I am going to get either the ET Drag or euivalent Hoosier. Do I need a stiff sidewall?
I am running a 427 with 4l60E. I have a 4400 stall with 4.11's in the rear. I am new to this so I need some help. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Bear

bspz28

iTrader: (1)

bear I have a set of 26x10x15 et-drags on weld draglites if you want you are welcome to make a pass or two on them ..

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

Hey Bear I'd give the ones Pete has a try and if they don't work then the 28" slicks would probably do the trick. Also I'd think about getting rid of the 4.11's for some 3.42/3.55's. that way you should be able to hook at most tracks

LAter

Bear

iTrader: (1)

Bob I had 3:73's with the 346, then I changed out to the 4.11's. Do u think the 411's are too much gear? I would rather change the rear ratio then hack up the car or fenders. I also dont want to mini tub. Pete do u think they will fit my car? I had problems with the Weld fronts fitting. The Bogarts are SCHWEEEEEEEEEET. They fit perfect. I am leary about trying to squeeze into the rim. Thanks Guys

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

I'd definitely reduce the gear. You don't need that extra torque multiplication now that you got the extra cubes. When are you looking to run that thing?

LAter

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

Run the 28's or a set of 27" Hoosier QTP's. The 27's fit really nice...

JS

iTrader: (4)

First and foremost try the 26X10X15 ET DRAG
U will need to grind the rear caliper/run a spacer.

If they dont hook then.....

I would look at where your shifting at (peak HP/TQ) and shift about 200 higher.EG 6300 = 6500 shift point,Then I'd gear/tire the car according to a mph u want to run and the rpm threw the lights.

EG Say u expect 124 MPH out of the car
Then u do this math 4.11 X 124 X 336 DIVIDED BY 26 = 6550 rpm (tire growth will knock it down to 6500)
Thats on a 26inch slick...

If u think the car can trap 130 then I'd say a 28in slick is the way to go.
EG 4.11 X 130 X336 DIVIDED BY 28 = 6460 rpm (again more like 6400 with tire growth)

IMO I think u should run 125MPH no problem so a 26in SLICK (NOT A ET STREET) COULD be the tire to run.Try Petes tires asap and let me know where your going threw the traps at and what mph and I can help u with the tire/gear sizing.

IMO I'd run a 4.10 or 3.90/28in setup (depending on verter slippage u might get a better et w/the 3.73/28?)

Hope that helps..

By the way what did your car run to the 1/8 on the one good pass u got
MPH and ET?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Where did you make peak HP and TQ?

I had 475rwhp/505rwtq, TP 4400, and 4.10's and there was no way I would have hooked on a 26, I ran 28" slicks. If I did it all over gain I would have run less gear, 3.50 or 3.70. We were shifting at 6500.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

What is yoru suspension like? Do you have the parts to get that power to the ground?

a car with little to no suspension but alot of power will need a taller tire to hook. Raceweight makes a big diff IMO as well. A lighter car needs less tire to get out and go.

My car does ok with a smaller tire because I have the suspension and low weight to pull it off, even with a six speed.

JS is right of course but i just want to throw suspension and weight into consideration because from my experience those two things really can effect the tire size needed..

JS12

www.jadesupra.net its David Feldmans website with a gear/tire/mph calculator and he has proven it to be pretty accurate.

Bear

iTrader: (1)

Well I have the 3:73's already so I guess they could go back in. Pete thanks for the offer, but there is no way in hell I am grinding my calipers to fit the Welds, then go buy the Bogarts. I would LOVE to run the 3:73's again but what about the guys running 4.56 and stuff. Are they M6? I wish my tranny didnt go so I would have a better idea where I was with the car. I want this to be a 1320 car only. Forget the weight, I want to concentrate on the suspension, gears, and vertor. I have Hals, lcas, TA, PHR and all the usual goodies. When I got the spinning 1.58 60' last week that was with the Hals unadjusted from the street. I guess that were set pretty stiff. What about compound and Sidewall? I was looking at Jegs and Summit and their were different sidewalls? What to get?????

2001-WS6

I have a full 3,850lbs car with stock shocks, stock springs and stock front wheels so I don't have the nicest weight transfer in the world. The suspension is the key though and you can see the difference that the BMR-Xtreme sway bar, BMR LCAs and Sphon CM Torque Arm make as she comes out nice and straight. So shocks and skinnies would certainly tighten up my current launches.

I am spinning 15x10x26 MT softwall slicks with a SY-3500 and 3.73s for 1.5xs NA. So you definitely won't want the 4.11s with your 4400 converter on 15x10x26 slick. You can get away comfortably on the 3.73s and a 26" slick for weekend fun and daily driving. They would be good for learning your launches and tuning your shocks.

If you are going to spray later on though you will be going to a 28" tire because I'm spinning for 1.48s with just the 100 shot out of the hole on the 26" slicks.

I'll give you my spin on sidewalls. The issue with soft wall vs stiff wall is a matter of trade offs. You will get the best hook from a soft wall tire generally speaking because it is better suited to absorbing the shock of the launch while holding the grip. At the highend of the run though, the soft wall tires will not "feel" as stable on high weight cars (over 3,800 for example). The stiff wall tire is going to have less shock absorbsion which makes it prone to slightly more wheel spin with the same tire compounds, but it will also have more stability at the high end of the track and support heavier cars better for higher MPHs during the run.

Compound is simply a trade off between a little more sticky with even less useful miles vs sticky enough for 90% of us and a solid full 1-2 seasons of runs. Got with the standard compound for now.

Rick

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

I really don't like hy-jacking some else's tread, but I have a couple of quesitons on tires and gearing. And while we have the attention of some the experts, I thought I would ask.

I have just upgrade to stage II heads with a 231/237 cam. I have all the suspension (QA1 shocks front and rear, relocation, etc, etc). M6 with upgraded clutch and rear-end. I am looking for 400-410 rwh on engine only (nitrious may be used for "fun" only).

Last year on stock motor, I ran 4.30 and 26" on motor and 28" on 100 shot. With stock rear-end and 3.73, same 26" ET drags, best 60' was like 1.69. Switched to a 12-bolt with 4.30. Immediately dropped 60' to 1.64-1.65. ET dropped from best of 12.68 to 12.51. Same motor set up, same suspension set up, same DA (maybe even a little worst with previous better time).

With heads/cam (I'll be shifting at 6,700 rpms), should I be changing back to 4.10/4.11 or 3.73? Tires, 26 or 28? If so why? Would my 60's suffer a little but better ET? MPH is great, but ET wins the race (right?).

Again thanks. Sorry for all the questions, but now would be the time to change.

David

Bear

iTrader: (1)

2001 WS6 that was a brilliant well thought out statement. It was very helpful for me. I will consider that. I want the stiffer sidewall for a better top end. I dont want to feel all loose going down the top end.

JS

iTrader: (4)

I'd run a 28in SLICK w/the 4.10 or 3.90's...
(But depending on verter slippage/flash the 3.73 28 might be good too.)

This combo is perfect
130 X 4.11 X 336 Divided by 28 = 6400 threw the lights (or poss. a 3.90)

Is the trans FUBAR or was it just the verter bolts?
What did u run on that one good pass to the 1/8 (MPH/ET)???

Bear

iTrader: (1)

Joel there is no way that I will trap 130. I spoke with my guy with the car and he said when he let some fluid out to get the vertor and seal, their was clutch material inside. Maybe that was/is why the car was blowing through the limiter. I will have to see. I will try one more time and see how it goes. If not then I am off to get a 400 and Tbrake.

JS

iTrader: (4)

I never said u would trap 130 but this way the 3.73/28 would be a SAFE combo as far as going threw the lights...

I hope u get the 4L60e to work but with 500RW I think its time for a 400..
Trans brakes and street cars dont mix,they leak at the noid and for our cars there not nessessary.Go 400 reverse manul with a good 4000 stall and the car will be a beast..

FWIW
I hope to trap consistant 120 to 121 at 3500lbs..
Will see?

Bear

iTrader: (1)

Ill keep that in mind about the brake. It was never a must. I hope to go back to LID in 2 weeks.