GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

I feel our detailing sub-forum is missing this thread. I would be glad to answer any questions regarding detailing as best I can. I get a lot of PMs asking similar questions about detailing and tips and such so I thought I'd put this up to help out the folks here.

This thread will serve as an in-depth collection that new members can read through as well as a spot for those questions when an entire thread is not necessary. I will do my best to answer anyone's questions. I love detailing and if I can help more people out and they can care for their cars better, well that's a win-win. Maybe a mod can make this a Sticky?

With that said, ask away!







***If this is your first visit to this thread, read through the answers before posting. You may find your question already asked.***

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thread idea!

00articz

process to make white "pop" or stand out without dropping a couple hundred in supplies?

chaman

iTrader: (5)

What is the best aluminum polish you have used?

kwiksilverz28

iTrader: (7)

Mothers motorcycle metal polish. Absolutely the best I have used!

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

What do you use for weathered and dry trim like the windshield wiper cowl?

LS1Vince

x2.


AND! How to restore graphics (clear coat on stripe end on spoiler is fading)

mrrman

How do you get rid of streak marks after using a porter cable. Car was clayed, used Meguiars 105 and 205 compounds...wiped off between applications and streak marks are presesnt. I followed the CD that came with my kit.

Thanks

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Well there are 2 main things that detract from the gloss or "pop" that white should have. The first is contamination. This is normally solved by a claybar. The difference with white is that certain types of contaminants are much more noticeable and take a long time to clay out. They look like little orange specs. They are iron deposits.

#1
There is 2 ways to remove them: Claying them off, which takes a LONG time on a neglected car, or using a chemical to remove them. The chemical option is much more friendly than it used to be. Get some Iron-X and spray it on the car after you're done washing it, while its still wet. It sprays on clear and when it comes in contact with iron deposits, it turns purple as it starts to open up the pores in the clear and break down the iron.

Example pic:




After about 4-5 min of dwell time, you can rinse it off. Note: do not do this in the hot sun! After you've thoroughly rinsed it off, you can clay the car like normal and it takes only minutes to remove the remaining deposits.


#2
The second is to polish the paint. Especially if you used a medium or aggressive grade claybar. Swirls, scratches, and oxidation detract MASSIVELY from the gloss that white is capable of. You can use a rotary or porter cable, and for pads I'd recommend an orange or white Lake Country pad, and your polish of choice (ex: Meguiars 205, Menzerna SIP, Adams SHR, etc...) and that will restore a significant amount of gloss.

You can also do it by hand with Meguiars Scratch-X or Meguiars Ultimate Compound, but the results won't be as good and it will tire you out.


Hope that helps! Any further questions just ask

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

I've used just about every aluminum polish out there and have found most of them to be pretty good and not significantly better than the other. But somehow I always end up going back to an old favorite, Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. Its one of the few things I still get over the counter. Mothers does a great job with metal polishes. And a $10 jar of it will last you years.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

By the time they start looking dry, they are usually more sun-bleached than just dried out, so getting shine back to them is something you have to keep up on frequently.

I would suggest any trim shine product that doesn't contain silicone. Silicone will give a false shine, as its the silicone that does the shine and it doesn't soak in to the plastic, so it goes away fast. It also will dry the plastic out more (though there is debate on that subject).

Black WOW is a good one, and also 303 Aerospace protectant, as they both contain UV blockers which will help the trim look good longer. You can also use Zaino Z16, diluted to a low shine or a full strength. Meguiars Professional Water-Based Dressing works nicely too, but doesn't last quite as long.

I would advise against dressing running boards or rear steps on tailgates as they can be slick and you don't want a family member (especially a child) or friend to slip and fall and hurt themselves.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Great thread Jeff, hopefully will save you those hundreds of PM's. Yeah right!

+1 for Mother's mag & aluminum polish. I don't even remember how long I've had my jar for.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Vinyl can be a touchy thing.... you will have to polish it, but you never want to get aggressive with vinyl. I'd suggest a light polishing product applied by machine (a porter cable, no rotary) on a pad with little to no cut like Lake Country white or black and work it in on a slow speed like 3-4. Zaino All-In-One or Klasse All-in-one would be good to try here. You might be able to get away with Meguiars 205. If none of these are working, you may want to get a new piece of vinyl as it may be too sun damaged.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Hmmm, can you get a picture of the streak marks? The only time i've seen any marks left behind from using those two would be if you've worked it for too long and were basically dry buffing. If thats the case, you need to go back over it with the 105 to remove it and the 205 to finish it back down. Unless the marks are from something else? A picture would help a lot here.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Thanks! I don't mind getting PMs, but when I'm getting the same question asked a lot, I'm only helping a couple people and I'm sure more have the same questions....so this way everyone can benefit from it.

00articz

whats the best leather cleaner, conditioner, and what do you use on all the trim pieces for the interior?

matt224

water spots. it seems no matter how quickly i get to drying an area of my car, i end up with water spots and streaks; my shammys are always clean to boot

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

IMO, the best leather cleaner and conditioner out there is by far the Leatherique twins. Next to that would be Zaino Z9/Z10, Leather Masters, Lexol, and Adams.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Try flooding the car before drying. Take the nozzle off the hose and run a gentle flood of water over the car, it should carry most of the water away with it. Especially if its been detailed recently. Also keep the car very wet while washing it. Keep spraying it down so it never has a chance to dry and get spots or streaks while washing.

Try washing in the morning or evening when there is less heat too. And ditch the chamios for some quality microfiber drying towels.

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

What a great thread hopefully other pro detailers will help out with the questions +1 on sticky.

Maybe you could make a video of how to properly polish and wax a car for the people new to detailing.

I have a question too. When using touch up paint, usually too much is applied to a spot. Can you wet-sand it with a fine grit to blend it better?