ez money

iTrader: (1)

i have searched this forum up and down and i have found the torque specs with the degree crap but can anyone just tell me what they torque the head bolts and the rod bolts to without all the degree stuff?? my torque wrench isnt a degree torque wrench

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have done head bolts 2 ways.....
1. With factory type bolts, and I used a Haynes manual for the torque procedure.
2. With ARP studs and used the standard sequence (from the Haynes manual) but used ARPs torque values: First pass X amount, second pass X amount and so on.

For rod bolts I would look to a Haynes manual as well but never have, I have always done ARP rod bolts and they have their own spec/procedure.

LSjim

iTrader: (8)

go to ls1howto.com

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

When using ARP stuff for head bolts. I always followed a 3 step proceedure. You can think of it of 3 passes and increasing the poundage each pass. For example, if I want the final spec to be lets say 60 ft lbs (using general numbers). It would be first past 20, then 40, and then 60. Then maybe one final pass to make sure I was not getting false readings.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

^that is exactly what I do right there. You can also follow ls1howto as well for tq specs and procedure.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

The torque angle gauges are not that expensive. You should pick one up and torque the bolts correctly. The rod bolt is not something you want to cut corners on.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

GM has introduced a new connecting rod bolt torque specification for GEN III and GEN IV Vortec small block V8 engines. The new specifiation continues the use of two passes. The second pass value has been increased from 75 degrees to 85 degrees.

Tighten the connecting rod bolts a first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
Tighten the connecting rod bolts a final pass to 85 degrees using the J 45059 Angle Meter.

joecar

TTY bolts: you really have to follow the TTY procedure, there is no equivalent torque-only replacement for the degree increments.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

As an alternative to using the proper torque angle gauge, some people will use a sharpie or similar and make a little mark on the bolt head at 12 o'clock just prior to starting the angle sequences. You can then get fairly close to the proper angle by watching that ling from the center of the head to 12 o'clock move to 3 o'clock (90º), then 6 o'clock (180º), etc.

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

I took an empty cereal box and cut the box along the seem running up and down and flattened it out , then put a mark in center and close to the edge of 1 of the long sides and using a compass made marks at 0deg 15deg 30, 45, 60, 75, ......and also arrows with deg #'s between 15 and 45 ....and 30 and 60 and 75 ..... and then cut a hole where the center pivot mark is for a socket to fit through and just make sure once You start turning the bolt that the home made angle meter does'nt move until You're done with each step .

ez money

iTrader: (1)

The motor was built by don hardy at dh1 I called him he said he torqued them too 45ft #s on rods so I went with that

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Not sure what bolts you are using but as stated earlier a bolt designed to preload by rotation (TTY) is not the same as a bolt that is tightened to a specified torque. Mixing the two (tightening a specified rotation) with a torque value for tightness could result in serious issues down the road.

What are the specific fasteners being used?

ez money

iTrader: (1)

I bought this motor from dh1 and he put arp rod bolts n it . Only reason I am asking about the torque is cause I broke a ring so I replaced it and the piston and retorqued everything back to what he torqued it too so all the making the bolt stretch stuff I keep seeing ppl talking about they should ha e stretched when he built the motor he told me to torque them back to 45ft#s so I took his word for it