Fry_

I bought a mostly stock 98T/A M6 with about 108k miles this spring and have been noticing several small problems with the transmission sense buying it. The first was after about 2 weeks it started grinding off and on when shifting into 6th, and that soon changed to almost every time unless after I take it out of 5th I wait for the rpms to drop to 1k before pulling it into 6th. Then a short time later I noticed that it is imposable to downshift to 5th, it doesn’t grind or anything it’s just like there is no gear there I even had a friend that’s been driving a 99 Formula M6 for the last 4 or 5 years drive it and he can’t get it to downshift to 5th either. I’ve also noticed that if I downshift from 6th to 3rd without momentarily pulling it into 4th or it grinds when going into 3rd. Lastly sometimes it doesn’t want to go all of the way into 3rd or will fall out of 3rd when driving around town. I’ve bled the clutch and although there was quite a bit of air in it, it didn’t help any of these problems but it did help with its drivability and on fast 1-2 shifts. I’m actually kind of hoping the transmission needs rebuilt because the car has a drivetrain warranty but it doesn’t cover the clutch but if the transmission is out anyway I’ll have a new clutch/flywheel, and slave cylinder put in and the warranty will cover the heavy lifting.
Fry

ls1tafirehawk

Yea sounds like it needs a master bearing and sycro kit

Fry_

I was pretty sure the 6th gear problem was a syncro problem but was looking for some more experianced opinions.

Joey@Tick

iTrader: (20)

It sounds like it's time for a transmission rebuild, for sure.

Check out our pricing here, which includes shipping each way: http://www.tickperformance.com/categ...-%26-Trans-Am/

Fry_

Joey I'd love to have tick rebuild my trans and if I can get my warranty company to agree to pay a local shop to put in a level 1 rebuild with new bearings you’ll being hearing from me I’d much rather have my trans rebuilt by a trusted source than some mass production remanufacturer that will use cheap parts and more than likely hassle me if something is wrong with it and try to blame me or the shop the installed it. Do you think there is anything has been or will be damaged if I keep driving it this way that wont be replaced in a standard rebuild? I’d like to wait till I have the money for a new clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, and of course tick master cylinder that way it will all be done and I wont have to worry about it again for the next 75-100,000 miles hopefully. And if any other vendors can build me at comparable transmission for a better price including shipping then feel free to speak up I’ll consider any reputable source.

Joey@Tick

iTrader: (20)

Best of luck with the warranty company!

Without having the transmission apart it's tough to know the extent of the damage, but I definitely don't suggest continuing to drive it in it's current state. It's the unknown that scares me! I'd hate to tell you that you're safe and then crack your transmission open in 6 months to find significant damage that could have been avoided. Your cheapest bet is always to stop driving it once you can confirm an internal transmission issue, which we have done today.

Definitely price shop, just make 100% sure that you're comparing apples to apples when you make your final decision. We aren't the cheapest of all the sponsors here on Tech, but I'm totally confident that our rebuilds are more valuable than any of our competition.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

You could try swapping the trans fluid to see if that helps. Feel free to contact me about any questions on a Monster Clutch. Chris, 817-750-2000

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DIRTYDEED

:d:dgreat sponsor here also a friend and i drove over from taylorsville nc to check them very nice. Also professional and he even gave me a free shirt for coming by and we bullshit for atleast a hour or so showing us the cars and all :d:d:d

BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

I have a feeling I have a rebuild and hydraulics replacement on the way soon as well. Hope everything goes well for you.

Fry_

I'm holding off on getting it fixed till I have the money for a new clutch and hydraulics, that should give me time to decide between a LS7 clutch and a Monster stage 1. I'll probably go with the LS7 because it has to be 100% streetable because my wife drives this car as much if not more than me.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Our Level 1 drives just as well as the LS7 being a full face organic disc. We have plenty of women out there driving higher level Monster's with no problems

Fry_

How long will a level 1 last compared to a LS7. I'd expect a LS7 to last just as long as my stock LS1 clutch that has 110kmiles and no signs so slipping behind a stock LS1. I have no dout that either clutch will be able to handle any future mods this is likely to be a bolt-on only car maybe with a small cam.

Joey@Tick

iTrader: (20)

I'd expect the Monster Level 1 to last just as long, too. We've had great luck with both the Monster Level 1 and Level 2 as far as lasting, considering they get abused fairly regularly.