The new setup
09-07-2011, 06:09 AM
#1
The new setup Well, I decided to keep my car and rebuild. For those that don't know, I lost the motor on the highway sometime in January during normal driving. I had made a quick 60-120 pull a few miles earlier but about 4 miles later during normal driving I heard a ticking, add a little throttle to see if it got any louder and a connecting rod let go. I don't remember which one it was after the tear down, but it was not a common one to fail. Rod snapped off about 1" below the wrist pin. It managed to take out the block/cam and possibly the head in the process.
Good news is the motor was built from junk and used parts and lasted me for 5+ years of street driving and 100+ 10 sec track passes. The motor was maintenance free except for oil/filter every 3000-6000 miles ( it consumed a bit due to being rear mount with a sometimes finicky check valve so I just topped it off occasionally).
So the old iron 6.0 is dead and in it's place 1320 is building a 5.7L alum setup, most likely with a partially filled block. Dunno what parts are going in it yet but it will be H beam vs the eagle SBC rods I was running at 3x their rating. 1320 and I were thinking a LS9 cam or something similar to it. This is once again a budget build, no high dollar stuff at all. That collection of misc parts that was my 6.0L lasted me 20K+ miles making 200 more HP than I intended.
I'm also going to give up the 2.75 granny gears and go with some 3.25's. This should make the car 60' harder since I was at the limit with the 2.75's leaving at 5psi and hitting 15psi (full power) about 10' out.
Good news is the motor was built from junk and used parts and lasted me for 5+ years of street driving and 100+ 10 sec track passes. The motor was maintenance free except for oil/filter every 3000-6000 miles ( it consumed a bit due to being rear mount with a sometimes finicky check valve so I just topped it off occasionally).
So the old iron 6.0 is dead and in it's place 1320 is building a 5.7L alum setup, most likely with a partially filled block. Dunno what parts are going in it yet but it will be H beam vs the eagle SBC rods I was running at 3x their rating. 1320 and I were thinking a LS9 cam or something similar to it. This is once again a budget build, no high dollar stuff at all. That collection of misc parts that was my 6.0L lasted me 20K+ miles making 200 more HP than I intended.
I'm also going to give up the 2.75 granny gears and go with some 3.25's. This should make the car 60' harder since I was at the limit with the 2.75's leaving at 5psi and hitting 15psi (full power) about 10' out.
09-07-2011, 04:42 PM
#2
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hell yeh. good to hear you are back in the game.
Mine went down after about 10 dragstrip passes.... I don't know what it is yet, but cylinders 2,4,6,8 are fine. cylinders 1,3,5,7 are all 100psi cranking pressure or less. Doing a leak down check this week to see where I hear it leaking from.
I can't wait to see it setup and the numbers. when I get mine fixed, I will be back on the dyno once again, and back at the track.
Mine went down after about 10 dragstrip passes.... I don't know what it is yet, but cylinders 2,4,6,8 are fine. cylinders 1,3,5,7 are all 100psi cranking pressure or less. Doing a leak down check this week to see where I hear it leaking from.
I can't wait to see it setup and the numbers. when I get mine fixed, I will be back on the dyno once again, and back at the track.
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09-09-2011, 11:43 PM
#9
If you want to put a DM Performance main girdle with longer ARP studs in it, I have one brand new sitting on the shelf. To be used, the block needs to be line bored with it installed and studs torqued. You shouldn't need to fill the block then.
Last edited by TurboAv; 09-09-2011 at 11:50 PM.
