Turbo Prep/info on my ls1 f-body
09-08-2011, 08:51 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Turbo Prep/info on my ls1 f-body Got an '02 LS1 currently, and looking to see what I need to get done to prep my car for a turbo. Not sure what size turbo. New to turbo's. I have heard the stock ls1 crank is a decent piece, is that true/safe to keep under 800hp? The rod bolts I have also heard would need to be changed. Which ones? I will definitely get a new set of forged rods and pistons. I have probe forged pistons and eagle H-beams in my nova, and that pushes 575hp on motor. Probably go with probe for pistons. Where would you even put a turbo on an ls1 f-body? Want to send my heads out as well for a CNC to get all nasty with it. Who's got the best one out there for a set of 241's, and how much $$?
Question is, can you even make an ls1 with its stock PCM, street legal and still pass emissions/inspection, and not throw SES lights? I am doing this purely for street, and will most likely not see the track until much, much later. My t56 has already been replaced, and should hold just fine for the street. Rearend...not so much. It will probably die, and I realize that. No worries on suspension, I will have that taken care of.
Thanks!
Question is, can you even make an ls1 with its stock PCM, street legal and still pass emissions/inspection, and not throw SES lights? I am doing this purely for street, and will most likely not see the track until much, much later. My t56 has already been replaced, and should hold just fine for the street. Rearend...not so much. It will probably die, and I realize that. No worries on suspension, I will have that taken care of.
Thanks!
09-08-2011, 10:47 AM
#2
The crank should handle the power levels you are looking at. i would change the rods. I personally run Eagle rods with the best bolt they offer. As for what size turbo depends on what size engine, were you are putting it, and what kind of use you want out of it. I run a GT-88 but my power goals are way above 800hp and my intended use is different from yours. I would think you would end up with a 76 or 78mm turbo for what you are talking about doing. I would think a 67mm would be the smallest you would want to use.
As to were to place it, if you do not want to cut the car, standing the radiator up, and spending lots of money on making room for it up front you could build your own rear mount setup. You place the turbo were the stock muffler goes. I did this and it works, but the turbo turbine housing needs to be sized right for that location. You will also have to use an oil pump to return the oil to the engine and run all the piping back there. Nice thing is you do not need to cut on the car. It is a good method to start with for someone who is just getting into the turbo stuff.
You will need to upgrade your fuel system completely if you want to do it right. Injectors, fuel rails, fuel lines, twin fuel pumps, fuel pressure regulator, etc.
As for passing state inspection, if you do not go crazy with the cam selection, and still run the cats, most professional tuning shops can get the car tuned to pass inspection. Of course all states have different laws and so do some areas inside the state. So it will really depend on were you live and what the laws are that you have to comply with.
Look to the right on here. You will see a long list of sponsors. Most all of them here are top notch and I am sure they can hook you up right with your head work. personaly I like Kevins work at Virginia speed. But really any of the sponsors here you can trust.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
As to were to place it, if you do not want to cut the car, standing the radiator up, and spending lots of money on making room for it up front you could build your own rear mount setup. You place the turbo were the stock muffler goes. I did this and it works, but the turbo turbine housing needs to be sized right for that location. You will also have to use an oil pump to return the oil to the engine and run all the piping back there. Nice thing is you do not need to cut on the car. It is a good method to start with for someone who is just getting into the turbo stuff.
You will need to upgrade your fuel system completely if you want to do it right. Injectors, fuel rails, fuel lines, twin fuel pumps, fuel pressure regulator, etc.
As for passing state inspection, if you do not go crazy with the cam selection, and still run the cats, most professional tuning shops can get the car tuned to pass inspection. Of course all states have different laws and so do some areas inside the state. So it will really depend on were you live and what the laws are that you have to comply with.
Look to the right on here. You will see a long list of sponsors. Most all of them here are top notch and I am sure they can hook you up right with your head work. personaly I like Kevins work at Virginia speed. But really any of the sponsors here you can trust.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
09-08-2011, 10:51 AM
#3
As for pistons, I know nothing of Probe. I personaly run Ross pistons. Not many on here do but I have had great sucsess with Ross. Most here either run Weisco or Diamonds pistons. I think Weisco makes one of the best pistons. They have a very nice large selection of off the shelf pistons for the LS engine. I only run complete custom pistons and feel Ross can not be beat in that department. But everyone has their own personal favorite so take that at face value.
09-08-2011, 11:52 AM
#4
Staging Lane
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Thanks for the reply.
Block wise, when I do eventually yank the ls1 out, would the required bore/hone job be possible? Would it have to be sleeved? I've heard you can't bore these blocks out too far. As for what size dish to get in the pistons, how big are the combustion chambers in stock ls1's? Will I have to worry about quench/deep dish pistons? Should I get the block flat milled and zero-decked? Or should I get them in the hole a bit to get the compression down? What's the best way with these blocks?
Not too sure I want to run the turbo on the bottom, there's already like no room for speed bumps, and my exhaust scrapes over speed bumps.
Theoretically, if I wanted to do all of this myself, tuning and all, what would I need to get? HP Tuners, etc., but what would be needed for a boost referenced pressure regulator, etc? Wouldn't that tie into the PCM/HP Tuners somehow?
I do not run cats. The car came with a borla system with deleted cats, and deleted rear 02's that were tuned out in the PCM. I passed inspection that way this year. Can I still get it to pass inspection with a turbo on my setup?
Thanks again!
Block wise, when I do eventually yank the ls1 out, would the required bore/hone job be possible? Would it have to be sleeved? I've heard you can't bore these blocks out too far. As for what size dish to get in the pistons, how big are the combustion chambers in stock ls1's? Will I have to worry about quench/deep dish pistons? Should I get the block flat milled and zero-decked? Or should I get them in the hole a bit to get the compression down? What's the best way with these blocks?
Not too sure I want to run the turbo on the bottom, there's already like no room for speed bumps, and my exhaust scrapes over speed bumps.
Theoretically, if I wanted to do all of this myself, tuning and all, what would I need to get? HP Tuners, etc., but what would be needed for a boost referenced pressure regulator, etc? Wouldn't that tie into the PCM/HP Tuners somehow?
I do not run cats. The car came with a borla system with deleted cats, and deleted rear 02's that were tuned out in the PCM. I passed inspection that way this year. Can I still get it to pass inspection with a turbo on my setup?
Thanks again!
09-08-2011, 01:29 PM
#5
Lots of questions here. I will try and help you work threw them. I myself am a do it yourself kind of guy. I build my own engines, turbo kits, do my own tuning, build my own fuel system, paint, fabrication, chassy work, everything except the 4L80 trans I run I did myself. I could do that to if I was not lazy. 
As for the LS1 block. Stock the pistons are 0 or .005 out of the hole. You only need to mill it if it is not square. I would not shorten the piston heigth any. Most of the LS1 engines were in the 10 to 10.5 compression range. I believe they all had flat tops in them and the cc of the heads were around 64cc I think. Now the LS2 and LQ9 had different pistons and head cc's.
As far as the block boring goes, you are correct that they can not be bored much, like 0.005" or so. I would not advise to waist your money and time on resleeving the block to keep the stock ci. If you wanted to go to a big inch engine like 427ci then sleeving is not a bad idea, but for the price to sleeve one to that size is not cheap and you can buy a new LSX block that you can bore to 4.200" and make a 454ci out of for close to the same money as sleeving one. You can buy a new 6.0L block for about 700 bucks if your block needs to be bored any bigger then recomended. They have a 4" bore in them and can be bored to 4.030" which is what mine is. With a 4" crank you will have about 408ci. Both the LSX block and 6.0L block are cast Iron blocks and are very strong. You can also spend a little more money (as compared to the 6.0L block) and buy an LS3 block which comes with a 4.060" bore and is an aluminum block. But again you are very limited as to how far you can bore it out.
What dish piston you will need will depend on the size engine you are building, the desired compresion ratio, and the head cc you intend to run. Most all the dish pistons are a reverse dome style, so they still work the quench area. My block is decked and set up to were the pistons come out of the hole about 0.010" and I run a thicker head gasket on it. You can run yours any way you like.
The 6.0L truck heads and the LS3 style heads have cc around 70. The 6.0L head will work nice on your LS1. They basically the LS6 head with larger combustion chambers. Te LS3 head flows even better but has a larger intake valve which is moved over a little. Due to this you can not run them on anything with a bore smaller then 4.030". They also are known not to have thick enough decks for boost levels much above 18psi. The other heads can go well above that without issue.
It is not a problem for an LS based engine to make 1000rwhp with boost, actually it is not uncomin now to see several well built ones making 1500rwhp. Not with stock internals of course.
My first build on my car was a rear mounted GT-88 t6 flanged turbo. It was very tight and clearence was an issue. It also had terrible lag issues with sutch a large turbo so far back. A smaller 76 or 78mm would have less lag issues and clearence would be better. But still you are right, speed bumps would be a no no. But then again, speed bumps are the enemy of these cars even in stock form.
You can put a smaller 76 or 78mm up front without having to cut the front of the car. You will have to replace the radiator and fan assemley with something that can fit inside the radiator support. That will open the front of the engine bay up for a turbo. You will also have to adress the AC condenser and lines. If you want more then say 10psi of boost you will need to plan on placing an intercooler up there. Most mount them infront of the radiator and trim out the liscense plate area for air to pass.
As for the LS1 block. Stock the pistons are 0 or .005 out of the hole. You only need to mill it if it is not square. I would not shorten the piston heigth any. Most of the LS1 engines were in the 10 to 10.5 compression range. I believe they all had flat tops in them and the cc of the heads were around 64cc I think. Now the LS2 and LQ9 had different pistons and head cc's.
As far as the block boring goes, you are correct that they can not be bored much, like 0.005" or so. I would not advise to waist your money and time on resleeving the block to keep the stock ci. If you wanted to go to a big inch engine like 427ci then sleeving is not a bad idea, but for the price to sleeve one to that size is not cheap and you can buy a new LSX block that you can bore to 4.200" and make a 454ci out of for close to the same money as sleeving one. You can buy a new 6.0L block for about 700 bucks if your block needs to be bored any bigger then recomended. They have a 4" bore in them and can be bored to 4.030" which is what mine is. With a 4" crank you will have about 408ci. Both the LSX block and 6.0L block are cast Iron blocks and are very strong. You can also spend a little more money (as compared to the 6.0L block) and buy an LS3 block which comes with a 4.060" bore and is an aluminum block. But again you are very limited as to how far you can bore it out.
What dish piston you will need will depend on the size engine you are building, the desired compresion ratio, and the head cc you intend to run. Most all the dish pistons are a reverse dome style, so they still work the quench area. My block is decked and set up to were the pistons come out of the hole about 0.010" and I run a thicker head gasket on it. You can run yours any way you like.
The 6.0L truck heads and the LS3 style heads have cc around 70. The 6.0L head will work nice on your LS1. They basically the LS6 head with larger combustion chambers. Te LS3 head flows even better but has a larger intake valve which is moved over a little. Due to this you can not run them on anything with a bore smaller then 4.030". They also are known not to have thick enough decks for boost levels much above 18psi. The other heads can go well above that without issue.
It is not a problem for an LS based engine to make 1000rwhp with boost, actually it is not uncomin now to see several well built ones making 1500rwhp. Not with stock internals of course.
My first build on my car was a rear mounted GT-88 t6 flanged turbo. It was very tight and clearence was an issue. It also had terrible lag issues with sutch a large turbo so far back. A smaller 76 or 78mm would have less lag issues and clearence would be better. But still you are right, speed bumps would be a no no. But then again, speed bumps are the enemy of these cars even in stock form.
You can put a smaller 76 or 78mm up front without having to cut the front of the car. You will have to replace the radiator and fan assemley with something that can fit inside the radiator support. That will open the front of the engine bay up for a turbo. You will also have to adress the AC condenser and lines. If you want more then say 10psi of boost you will need to plan on placing an intercooler up there. Most mount them infront of the radiator and trim out the liscense plate area for air to pass.
09-08-2011, 01:31 PM
#6
You will need to figure out were you want to run the cold air piping. Also the exhaust down pipe will need alot of thought to get it behind the engine.
You can find alot of picuters on here of what others have done. I will post the pics up of mine soon. But I dought you will want to go as extreme with yours as I did. I have completly modified my entire front end from the engine craddle forward.
You can find alot of picuters on here of what others have done. I will post the pics up of mine soon. But I dought you will want to go as extreme with yours as I did. I have completly modified my entire front end from the engine craddle forward.
09-08-2011, 01:44 PM
#7
Tuning, what year car is it? How much boost do you plan to run? With the earlier PCM and HP tuners you can tune it to 2 bar, the later PCM you can tune it to 3bar. HP Tuners Pro is what I use and I love it. You will need the Pro version. Boost pressure and cam selection will be critical in order for you to be able to pass state inspection.What state are you in? That will help for us to know this.
There are several boost referenced fuel pressure regulators on the market. I personaly run Aeromotive and have no issues with it. As for tieing it into the PCM, no you do not do that. The Stock PCM has tables for the injector flow rate at different manifold pressures. With the stock constant pressure regulator the delta P across the injectors change, therefore needing all those extra variables. When you put a Boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (BRFPR) on it the fuel pressure will change with the manifold pressure, so the delta p across the injectors is constant. So now all those tables will have to be changed to were they are all identical, changed to the new injector flow rate of the injector you are running with the new fuel pressure you are running. If you buy the injectors from FIC they will give you that data with the injectors. Long story short, you do not wire anything into the PCM for this, you just set up the PCM with HP Tuners for this new condition.
There are several boost referenced fuel pressure regulators on the market. I personaly run Aeromotive and have no issues with it. As for tieing it into the PCM, no you do not do that. The Stock PCM has tables for the injector flow rate at different manifold pressures. With the stock constant pressure regulator the delta P across the injectors change, therefore needing all those extra variables. When you put a Boost referenced fuel pressure regulator (BRFPR) on it the fuel pressure will change with the manifold pressure, so the delta p across the injectors is constant. So now all those tables will have to be changed to were they are all identical, changed to the new injector flow rate of the injector you are running with the new fuel pressure you are running. If you buy the injectors from FIC they will give you that data with the injectors. Long story short, you do not wire anything into the PCM for this, you just set up the PCM with HP Tuners for this new condition.
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09-08-2011, 01:51 PM
#8
Also go to the Forced Induction section and take a little time to read over the sticky threads at the top. They will help answer alot of your questions.
Feel free to ask all you want here. I do expect the administrators will move this to the Forced Induction section, which is were this post probably should be. Lots of people in there to help you. Really most of us turbo guys hang in there 90% of the time and sometimes get bored and look elswere.
Feel free to ask all you want here. I do expect the administrators will move this to the Forced Induction section, which is were this post probably should be. Lots of people in there to help you. Really most of us turbo guys hang in there 90% of the time and sometimes get bored and look elswere.
09-08-2011, 02:15 PM
#9
Staging Lane
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Thanks for the info. I originally started this thread for info on more or less, just the block, if it was capable of withstanding boost, etc. You've been a great help, tons of good info.
Is it common for people to bore their ls1's and re-use it? I don't want to buy another block, and, if a .005" bore will cover anything in the bores, I would like to do that. I'd like to keep the block if possible, and the stock crank, since it's a good piece. Makes it cheaper.
Car is an '02 SS. Emission laws don't say that you have to pass smog, the OBD2 PCM is enough to pass it. As long as there's no SES light, you're good.
Is it common for people to bore their ls1's and re-use it? I don't want to buy another block, and, if a .005" bore will cover anything in the bores, I would like to do that. I'd like to keep the block if possible, and the stock crank, since it's a good piece. Makes it cheaper.
Car is an '02 SS. Emission laws don't say that you have to pass smog, the OBD2 PCM is enough to pass it. As long as there's no SES light, you're good.
09-08-2011, 02:46 PM
#10
With HP Tuners you can control what SES lights come on if any and when, so with HP Tuners you can cover that.
Yes lots of people have the LS1 block cleaned up and resuse it. With the power levels you are talking about I would not think taking it out 0.005" will be an issue. It will depend on how much they need to go to get it right. If you have to change the block go to a LQ9 6.0L block. It is a little heavier because it is cast iron but it has a larger bore and can be bored to 4.030" and that is plenty safe for 18psi of boost. You can put all your stuff in it.. If you want to keep your pistons you could pick up a 5.3l or 4.8l block and punch it to the LS1 bore and reuse your pistons. But it is also a cast iron block and is heavier. Bad thing about using the 5.3 or 4.8 is you will not gain any more ci for the extra weight, but you can boost the crud out of them and easily make up for the extra weight. You can find used iron blocks in the classified here and in junk yards for about 200 to 300 bucks, a new one is about 700 bucks.
Yes lots of people have the LS1 block cleaned up and resuse it. With the power levels you are talking about I would not think taking it out 0.005" will be an issue. It will depend on how much they need to go to get it right. If you have to change the block go to a LQ9 6.0L block. It is a little heavier because it is cast iron but it has a larger bore and can be bored to 4.030" and that is plenty safe for 18psi of boost. You can put all your stuff in it.. If you want to keep your pistons you could pick up a 5.3l or 4.8l block and punch it to the LS1 bore and reuse your pistons. But it is also a cast iron block and is heavier. Bad thing about using the 5.3 or 4.8 is you will not gain any more ci for the extra weight, but you can boost the crud out of them and easily make up for the extra weight. You can find used iron blocks in the classified here and in junk yards for about 200 to 300 bucks, a new one is about 700 bucks.
09-08-2011, 02:49 PM
#11
There are alot of people on here that run the LS1 block cleaned up an extra 0.005" and run them at 20 to 24 psi of boost. That much power requires some tricks to the main caps and a few other things but the bore is not a problem. If you are talking 12 to 15 psi, run it!
09-08-2011, 03:41 PM
#12
Staging Lane
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There are alot of people on here that run the LS1 block cleaned up an extra 0.005" and run them at 20 to 24 psi of boost. That much power requires some tricks to the main caps and a few other things but the bore is not a problem. If you are talking 12 to 15 psi, run it!
I'm gonna stay with the original block, just all around easier. Don't need to up the CI since it's going to be boosted, plenty of power there as it is. I guess I need to know now, how hard is it to yank an LS1 out of an f-body? Do I gotta go from the bottom? Take off fenders? Definitely looks like it would be a pain coming out from the top.
12-15 PSI is right where I want to be at. Definitely a street car, pump gas, boost machine. Worked over heads, trow some boost at it, shouldn't have to put much boost on it to actually make it run well. In the planning stages right now, and figured I'd ask a few questions on this while I'm at it. Thanks again, for answering all my questions =)
09-08-2011, 04:14 PM
#13
One thing to note about the LS1 engine. The head bolts and main studs are all torque to yeld so once removed they should be discarded. For the price of new stockers I would go with the ARP. Also the Arp bolts are not torque to yeild so they can be reused over and over again, not to mention they are far stronger then the stock bolts. Also the crank pulley bolt is torque to yeild. Don't freak out but I think it torques to somewere like 300+lbs! ARP makes a much better one of those too.
I am just running the ARP Main Studs in my bottom end. I made 844rwhp and 817rwtq with it last year and will be making 1000+ on both ends. I have inspected my mains and have found no signs of the main caps walking. But I run the cast iron blocks. The aluminum blocks will flex a little more and I think when you get up to 700hp or more most shops requiment to dowl the main caps. They do make main girtles and billit caps but you really have to get up there in power before needing them. Somewere above my power level they recomend having the main stud size increased to 1/2" then the billets, then girdles, but we are talking big power by then.
Piston slap with these engines are more then the old school engines not really because of the material of the block but because of the very short piston design. They do make a little more noise and when you go to the forged pistons with extra clearence they are noisier. This is why most LS1 pistons have the wrist pin offset in them and the pistons are directional, to help cut back on the piston slap. But you really only notice it when the engine is cold. When warmed up the noise level tends to go down. Still noticable as compared to a SBC. The piston slap does not seam to cause the bores to wear any faster then other engines. Keep in mind if you want zero offset pistons like I run, the piston slap noise will be noticable, almost annoying. I have inspected my engine at least 3 times in the 3 years I have run it and have found zero piston bores issues (or bearing issues for that matter). I do also run a high zink oil like Rottela in order to help with this. (Most oils now days are zero zink content).
Some people pull the engine from the top. I personaly drop it from under neither. It is sutch a pain i drop the engine to play with my cam timing. Really it is fast, easy and symple to do, if you know what to take loose and were. Lift the car some how. I have a lift now but the first time I picked it up and put it on rims under the rear tires and stands under the front. Drop the drive shaft, take the four tanny bolts off the trans cross member, disconect the shift linkage from the trans, disconect the exhaust, drain the coolant and take the houses loose, pop the two front brake lines off the ABS box, disconect the fuel lines from the fuel rail, take the two conections off the PCM, pull the PCM out, look under it were the small black wires go threw the firewall, look in the car opposite of the fire wall, you will find two plugs on that wire, take them loose and shove them back threw the firewall. Then drop the front tires off and unhook the sway bar, and lower strut. Now support the engine and remove the three craddle bolts on each side, lift the car off the engine and unplug any wire that lifts with the car. It is out, takes about an hour once you have done it a few times. Wiring harness stays on the engine and trans. You can always leave the wiring harness in the car and unplug it from the engine. I like to leave the harness on the engine.
I am just running the ARP Main Studs in my bottom end. I made 844rwhp and 817rwtq with it last year and will be making 1000+ on both ends. I have inspected my mains and have found no signs of the main caps walking. But I run the cast iron blocks. The aluminum blocks will flex a little more and I think when you get up to 700hp or more most shops requiment to dowl the main caps. They do make main girtles and billit caps but you really have to get up there in power before needing them. Somewere above my power level they recomend having the main stud size increased to 1/2" then the billets, then girdles, but we are talking big power by then.
Piston slap with these engines are more then the old school engines not really because of the material of the block but because of the very short piston design. They do make a little more noise and when you go to the forged pistons with extra clearence they are noisier. This is why most LS1 pistons have the wrist pin offset in them and the pistons are directional, to help cut back on the piston slap. But you really only notice it when the engine is cold. When warmed up the noise level tends to go down. Still noticable as compared to a SBC. The piston slap does not seam to cause the bores to wear any faster then other engines. Keep in mind if you want zero offset pistons like I run, the piston slap noise will be noticable, almost annoying. I have inspected my engine at least 3 times in the 3 years I have run it and have found zero piston bores issues (or bearing issues for that matter). I do also run a high zink oil like Rottela in order to help with this. (Most oils now days are zero zink content).
Some people pull the engine from the top. I personaly drop it from under neither. It is sutch a pain i drop the engine to play with my cam timing. Really it is fast, easy and symple to do, if you know what to take loose and were. Lift the car some how. I have a lift now but the first time I picked it up and put it on rims under the rear tires and stands under the front. Drop the drive shaft, take the four tanny bolts off the trans cross member, disconect the shift linkage from the trans, disconect the exhaust, drain the coolant and take the houses loose, pop the two front brake lines off the ABS box, disconect the fuel lines from the fuel rail, take the two conections off the PCM, pull the PCM out, look under it were the small black wires go threw the firewall, look in the car opposite of the fire wall, you will find two plugs on that wire, take them loose and shove them back threw the firewall. Then drop the front tires off and unhook the sway bar, and lower strut. Now support the engine and remove the three craddle bolts on each side, lift the car off the engine and unplug any wire that lifts with the car. It is out, takes about an hour once you have done it a few times. Wiring harness stays on the engine and trans. You can always leave the wiring harness in the car and unplug it from the engine. I like to leave the harness on the engine.
09-08-2011, 04:25 PM
#14
12-15 psi will make a very nice ride. You will not have to get carried away with the build.
Wiesco pistons, about 9:1 compression, 9.5:1 even is not out of the question, with meth injection for cooling and an intercooler 10 or even 10.5:1 would be doable on premium pump gas.
Stock heads with a little clean up work, LS6 intake (most 02 came with that), right sized injectors, good fuel system, Arp studs and capscrews, stock crank, stock reworked block, and a nice mild turbo cam. All that and I think you will have a machine that will scare the crud out of you if it did not kill you. I would think 12 psi with the right build would make at least 650rwhp and 15 would put you about 800rwhp. Don't over turbo it and the boost will come in strong down low making it an deadly stump pulling fool. I think you are on the right track.
You will destroy that rear end and most likely the trans. Get ready to have to go to a moser rear end and mabye a much stronger trans.
I would strongly sugest to replace the rear wheel studs to at least 1/2" ARP. I did not do this. You can find photos on here from the carnage of what happend when I sherd all 5 wheel studs off my Moser 9".
Hence the new build.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Wiesco pistons, about 9:1 compression, 9.5:1 even is not out of the question, with meth injection for cooling and an intercooler 10 or even 10.5:1 would be doable on premium pump gas.
Stock heads with a little clean up work, LS6 intake (most 02 came with that), right sized injectors, good fuel system, Arp studs and capscrews, stock crank, stock reworked block, and a nice mild turbo cam. All that and I think you will have a machine that will scare the crud out of you if it did not kill you. I would think 12 psi with the right build would make at least 650rwhp and 15 would put you about 800rwhp. Don't over turbo it and the boost will come in strong down low making it an deadly stump pulling fool. I think you are on the right track.
You will destroy that rear end and most likely the trans. Get ready to have to go to a moser rear end and mabye a much stronger trans.
I would strongly sugest to replace the rear wheel studs to at least 1/2" ARP. I did not do this. You can find photos on here from the carnage of what happend when I sherd all 5 wheel studs off my Moser 9".
Hence the new build.
Keep us posted and good luck.
09-08-2011, 04:33 PM
#15
Staging Lane
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12-15 psi will make a very nice ride. You will not have to get carried away with the build.
Wiesco pistons, about 9:1 compression, 9.5:1 even is not out of the question, with meth injection for cooling and an intercooler 10 or even 10.5:1 would be doable on premium pump gas.
Stock heads with a little clean up work, LS6 intake (most 02 came with that), right sized injectors, good fuel system, Arp studs and capscrews, stock crank, stock reworked block, and a nice mild turbo cam. All that and I think you will have a machine that will scare the crud out of you if it did not kill you. I would think 12 psi with the right build would make at least 650rwhp and 15 would put you about 800rwhp. Don't over turbo it and the boost will come in strong down low making it an deadly stump pulling fool. I think you are on the right track.
You will destroy that rear end and most likely the trans. Get ready to have to go to a moser rear end and mabye a much stronger trans.
I would strongly sugest to replace the rear wheel studs to at least 1/2" ARP. I did not do this. You can find photos on here from the carnage of what happend when I sherd all 5 wheel studs off my Moser 9".
Hence the new build.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Wiesco pistons, about 9:1 compression, 9.5:1 even is not out of the question, with meth injection for cooling and an intercooler 10 or even 10.5:1 would be doable on premium pump gas.
Stock heads with a little clean up work, LS6 intake (most 02 came with that), right sized injectors, good fuel system, Arp studs and capscrews, stock crank, stock reworked block, and a nice mild turbo cam. All that and I think you will have a machine that will scare the crud out of you if it did not kill you. I would think 12 psi with the right build would make at least 650rwhp and 15 would put you about 800rwhp. Don't over turbo it and the boost will come in strong down low making it an deadly stump pulling fool. I think you are on the right track.
You will destroy that rear end and most likely the trans. Get ready to have to go to a moser rear end and mabye a much stronger trans.
I would strongly sugest to replace the rear wheel studs to at least 1/2" ARP. I did not do this. You can find photos on here from the carnage of what happend when I sherd all 5 wheel studs off my Moser 9".
Hence the new build.
Keep us posted and good luck.
Done my fair share of destroying transmissions and rearends. I race a 10 second 4-speed Nova with 13" wide slicks.
I know the stocker rearend will not live at all and it absolutely baffles me why GM put such a tiny ring and pinion in these high HP cars. The transmission I have now though is rebuilt from one of the guys/sponsors on this forum, said it should live fine to whatever I throw at it. Only upgrade I have left to do to it is the 30-spline input shaft.
Appreciate it! Much clearer path on what exactly will need to be done now, thank you!
