jks67ss396

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys

Looking to see how you guys drilled out your holes in your oil pans for the turbo return. Ive got a -10AN to 1/2-14" NPT fitting and ive got the 1/2-14" tap.

im having a heck of a time finding the 45/64 drill bit anywhere locally for less than 50 bucks.

i find it hard to believe that everyone who puts a drain in the pan spends 50 bucks on a drill bit they use once..

so what size did you guys use? someone said 11/16 might work? or 23/32 (also hard to find)

im wondering if i could just die grind the hole out and get it as close as i can to .703" (45/64)???

thanks guys

evo462

iTrader: (27)

I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but I had it welded on at a local shop for $20. Might try that?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

IIRC, on my old pan I used a 9/16" bit and had a 90* 1/2" pipe elbow on there and tapped it accordingly.

My new pan has the bungs welded on it.

jks67ss396

iTrader: (1)

9/16? thats .5625"... quite a bit smaller than the 45/64 (.703") that people say to use for the drill bit... was the fitting you used 1/2npt?

if i have to weld, i will, but ive heard cast aluminum is tricky... im about to go buy a welder for the pipes anyway

madmax4499

iTrader: (3)

the oil pan is simple to weld not tricky, just burn the oil out with a torch clean it up with acetone and weld. i used a 9/16 bit for aluminum, just use cutting lube and go slow the tap will cut the threads no problem.

note, just egg out the hole a little with the bit, turn the tap a 1/4 turn in then back out 1/2 turn.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Yes it was 1/2" npt as stated in my post. It was years ago as well, I could be wrong.

boostnut

iTrader: (7)

Its probably not local but you can get a 45/64" with a 1/2" reduced shank for $23.55 + shipping from McMaster Carr. P/N is 2933A57. For an extra couple bucks you can get the "slip resistant" version, p/n is 29415A34. I'd pay the extra couple bucks, the shank is machined flat on 3 sides, works much better in a 3 jaw chuck. Hope that helps.

505OUTLAWZWS6

iTrader: (13)

I recommend getting an aluminum AN fitting and drilling a 9/16 hole and welding it. You will never have to worry about it. I have seen on more than one ocassion people dropping their oil pan because of the npt fitting leaking....Not saying it doesn't work but there is alot more margin for error.

Chris@CBR

This guy nailed it.
McMaster Carr is the go to place for this kind of stuff.
They don't play around, it is always in stock and in most cases
you will get your order the next day.
I spend 10K a year with them.
McMaster.com

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

I got one of those cone type drill bits from Lowe's. It's a vice-grip brand and cost me ~$40. It's one of the best tools in my box, seriously. It drills through anything with easy. Then I tapped the pan and used a crush washer to seal it. Not a single drop of anything in sight.

Chris@CBR

A step drill AKA unibit is a very handy tool.
Once you buy one you won't know how you got by without it.
If you get the hole big enough to get the nose of the tap to start you will
be fine tapping aluminum.

jks67ss396

iTrader: (1)

hey guys

I found a 45/64th bit at a tool supplier 4 miles from my house for 18 bucks. so ill give it a shot.

i would try welding it, but i dont have my welder yet and im trying to get the engine in this weekend

guy at the store told me that i can use oil as cutting fluid when i tape. would that work?

thanks!

madmax4499

iTrader: (3)

yes it will work just fine.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info guys, got me a 45/64 for $11 on you know where brand new and a 1/2"-14 NPT tap for $11 as well. gonna tap the pan for my turbo build. was gonna have it run into the oil fill but then decided that ill just tap the pan.