always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well i hope that my words and terms are clear enough

After having alignement issue with the block(now all perfect with the all the help of members) and some valvetrain noise issue(now perfect again with all your help) it came down to one last problem.I made the 500miles clutch break in and also my new motor break in is complete.I now need to go to the dyno to get it fully tuned....but.

I decide to double check everything and to adjust the TICK Master the correct way.I took the car to a empty parking lot and did some test.I put it in first gear and let my foot on the clutch pedal fully down to the floor.I then rev the car to 6000rpm (like stated on other post) to see if i was totally disengaged.But the car did make maybe 1 or 2 inch forward.So not enough pressure applied...i think.

So i adjust the master by 1 full turn at a time and redo the test.But even at the limit of the master could go(i know this because i was so far away in the adjuster that it did fall down on the floor from the master rod), the car would still ,with the clucth pedal fully down to the floor,go a inch forward.

I also realise that in neutral(no foot on the clutch pedal and the gear lever in neutral),if i press the clucth pedal all the way down and put the lever in 1st,the car would make a small kinda kick forward...But after this i could still keep my foot on the clutch pedal,put the lever back in neutral and put it back again in first and nothing would happen...So the clutch doesnt fully disengaged(is this the right term???).

Setup:
-c5z 2001
-SPEC Super twin 900 torque rating,installed with the shim provide by spec
-TICK Adjustable master cylinder
-TICK Speed bleeder
-New GM slave cylinder

The car drives great and shift all gear perfectly without any problem,.I mean i did not test it at wot since i was in break in miles but i could go from 3500rpm upshift(from 2th to 3rd or 3rd to 4th) with no effort(2 fingers) and with the clutch pedal only half way down.From a dead stop i can put it in first also without any effort.I could aslo downshift has easily.Ive bleed the system a couple of times to be sure(i passed a full litres of dot 4 fluid) and there is no air in the system.

So whats wrong with my car ????

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Here are a couple of recomendations: Check your adjustment and make sure that you are not pushing through the clutch. If you have the Master threaded to throw too far it could do the same thing as not having it threaded to throw far enough. Additionally, you need to make sure that the discs are oriented properly. Did you have to pull the transmission down with bolts? Do you have the dowels for the trans in place? Let me know and I can assist with further tech support. Thanks,

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the input.
I will try the master adjustement to its minimum and see what it will do with 1 turn increment only between each test.Maybe i start it to far on the adjustement rod.
The disc are oriented properly,we wehre two when i did the clutch and we double verified this(easy since both disc have the side label on each of them )
The dowels pins are in and the trans is solidly botl to the block and bellhousing.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

I will try the adjust the Tick master to its shortest point in the end of the week or maybe saturday.Working 2 job at a time ,so no time left during the week.
Thanks

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Just keep me posted and let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well even with the master at his lowest point,if i press on the clutch pedal to the floor and put the shifter in 1st,the cars did a slight forward move and get back.It doesnt advance it just kinda lean forward a really tiny tiny bit than come back to his base point.After every turn more i tested it and it still do the same.

The car shift great at any speed,any gear.No grinding,no hard to get in or get out of gear.Everything is super smooth.So maybe it needs to be used a little more.Im at 315 miles of the 500 recommended break in miles for the clutch.

I dont wanna use this clutch that cost me 1500$ prematurely...
What do you think ????

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Also for the info.When idling in my driveway,i can push the clutch only half way down and enter the first gear without any problem...

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

That means that you are pushing through the clutch with the current adjustment. You need to shorten the throw of the master, making the length shorter, to stop this from happening.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well im at the minimum adjustement of the Tick master so ...

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

I see you installed the shim, what was your "A" measurement?

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Sorry by the time that i install the clutch i did not know that i had to took some measurement.I only followed the SPEC instruction that state that a c5 corvette must use the provided shim.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

Well if you are at your shortest travel with the master and the clutch is being forced over center I think the next step is to remove the trans and start checking everything.

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Well forgot to update this one

Since i have to take my motor out again,i will definitely take out the shim behind the slave.The clutch engaged way way to high(last 1/2 inch) and i can shift any gear without even pushing 1/2 of the pedal.The shim would probably be good with a standard master cylinder but no needed with a TICK master and drill mod.

Thanks for all the input

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the update. We actually provide two sheets with these kits that reference installation. One is a measurement sheet with specifics relative to proper spacing. I am sorry fi this was not clear. Let me know if you would like me to email a copy to you. I will be happy to. Thanks,

always faster

iTrader: (6)

Send me those info please:

alwaysfaster@hotmail.com

Thanks