occhevelle

I have been searching and found a few threads and pics stating that the clutch pedal needs to be modified. I am a complete rookie and need someone to break it down stupid for me. I put in the master cylinder with the adapter plate and hooked up a stock clutch pedal. It connected fine, but I guess it is the travel/distance that needs to adjust? If I cut the tab off where to I weld it back? Is there anyway to do it without welding?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...redownload.jpg

dropped72ss

iTrader: (3)

Which adapter plate did you use? I am also interested what the easiest method is to modify a stock pedal assembly. Look forward to what others that have done the swap have done.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I did a complete break down of this very thing on my thread. You will have to dig through 53 pages to find it. I suggest you use the thread tools to search my build. If you have difficulty finding it let me know and i will try to help. The reason you have to weld on the tab is to limit pedal travel at the master. It also aids in alignment of the pushrod and piston to the bore. Street and Performance has a vauge blueprint listed on their site but do not us their angles or placement of the tab.

occhevelle

Thanks tsnow. That definitely helps. I'm gonna give it a shot this week.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...camaro-14.html

occhevelle

Now I have another question -

Should the master cylinder rod be able to be depressed by hand? Mine won't move

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

If it is not connected to the slave cylinder yet and you just have the quick disconnect line attached to the master cylinder then your answer is "NO" it will NOT be able to be depressed. It is in hydraulic terms "dead headed" Now once you connect it to your slave "YES" it will ba ble to be depressed, but make sure your slave is installed and up against your pressure plate because if you are "bench testing" your slave can be over actuated and come apart and then you will have a fluid mess on your hands.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

What I did was cut the tab off.. and with the pedal in place and the Master rod connected to the tab, took a vise grip and clamped the tap to the Pedal Arm. Then move it around until you get about 1" of travel. Then remove the pedal and do the final weld.

This is where mine ended up..


Also suggest you put a adjustable travel stop on the Arm somewhere to limit the pedal travel if needed.


BC