mattz06

I looked at an erl block in person at lsfest, not very impressed with welds and how the deck is lower on the outer sides to compensate for head lifting. also think with aluminum block shifting maybe I should go lsx iron. not worried about the weight.


ordering engine asap. thoughts?

erl does have the fastest cars out

erl is filling the block 1/2 way, no need to do that with a lsx. could like to be able to drive 5 miles to street ra(e...

definately doing all pro heads

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

What about RHS block?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Call RED...have him sleeve an LSX iron block for you...then throw everything you want at it..........

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mattz06

havent heard much on them. alot of people are saying stay lsx to avoid block shifting with an aluminum block.

red?

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

Look up fireball on here. His car is a beast.

Any of the choices you posted should handle the power you want if built correctly. If I had the money I would go with aluminum just to save weight.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Race Engine Development........Steve. Perhaps the best LSx engine re-sleever on planet earth. He helped designed the Darton sleeves used in LSx engine today. He has sleeved "iron" blocks before.....its the strongest, most reliable engine you can have. 2,000+ HP.....DO IT!!!!!

Grey iron supporting Ductile iron sleeves is better than aluminum supporting Ductile iron sleeves.

I;m just figuring, you're going for 2,000+ HP....money isn't an issue. Build the strongest sumbitch you can...........

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2efnfast

iTrader: (2)

WTF is "block shifting"?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Block Core Shift - blocks formed using a sand cast have an inner and outer core to form all the nooks and crannies of the engine. The inner core has to be located in the dead center of the outer core for what should be obvious reasons - if it isn't, you can end up with things like oil galleys, cooling passages, cylinder bores, etc. that are shifted slightly. Sometimes the inner core shifts out of position during the casting process, and when it does, it's called...well...a core shift. If the cylinder bores aren't right where they should be, you can end up with cylinder walls that are thin in spots, and that would be no good for a big HP build. These things would likely be noticed while doing the machine work for the block - the cylinder thickness can be measured with a sonic tester, and should be done especially if you are planning on hogging out the bores as much as you can.

Keep in mind that this is me regurgitating what I found on the internet and what I've also read in a few engine building books - if you believe what I wrote, you could potentially end up with a car as slow as mine

Wild85

iTrader: (1)

block shifting is where the cylinders literally shift in the block from intense stress from high hp. This happens typically in street cars with above 1000hp. Engine builders usually recommend aftermarket aluminum blocks above 1000hp or going to an iron block. I have a new LS2 416 boost motor that was for 8.50s that is iron because it was going to be 1000-1500hp.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

RHS is still a relatively new player in the field of super high hp stuff. I'm running one this year but haven't fully assessed how it will do in the long run. Its shown well in the nitrous cars, but still hasn't been pushed to stupid levels on turbos until recently.

I've pushed my std-deck RHS reasonably hard. some calculators I've used suggest ~2000hp. Its been 154mph to the 1/8 in a 3340lb car.

LSx has some issues at that power level. still recommend filling and girdling the mains. Phil99vette ran an LSX the last 2 years at 2300-2400 hp....he went 4.70 @ 164 in the 1/8. He's switched to an RHS tall-deck block this year but hasn't got any real passes on it yet

either way, its way more important to find a good quality machinist at that level. block prep is everything!