Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - I could use some expert advice on a later model sbc
09-13-2011, 09:13 PM
Im being offered a trade for a transmission for a 350 engine from the heads to the crank plus 175 bucks.
The number on the block is 10054727 number on the heads is 14102193
I did a bit of googleing and found that its a 92 ish 350 from a truck. (guy said it was from a wrecker)
People on other forums are also saying the heads are just crap if you want to build anything with them.
What Im looking to do is swap this into an older bmw and Id like to build a 350 that has a mid to high rpm power band. As for heads I have some worked 202 heads and Im curious if this block being a late model one is junk for what I want to do.
I know enough to build an engine but when it comes to choosing parts I know next to nothing so anything will help here.
09-13-2011, 09:15 PM
Im curious if this block being a late model one is junk for what I want to do.
a sbc is a sbc, doesn't matter what year... maybe newer ones have tighter machining allowances, idk.
09-13-2011, 09:30 PM
Thats what I didnt really know if I should ask.. is there a difference and if so is it a good or bad difference. Logic told me there shouldnt be one but Ive been wrong before
09-13-2011, 09:59 PM
That is a 1 piece rear main seal motor. The heads are junk and don't flow anything. Just put your heads on there and you will be fine. Make sure you check your pushrod length since you are putting different heads on that engine and you don't know if those heads have been shaved or not.
09-13-2011, 10:38 PM
Good to know, thanks SB
09-14-2011, 03:16 PM
As mentioned it's a one piece rear seal and should have a roller cam if not it will have the provisions for it.
X2 on the heads aren't being worth anything. Buy the time you spend the money on having bigger valves and and port work done on them you are in the ball park of a decent aftermarket head.
09-14-2011, 05:15 PM
There is one other small bit of info on the late 80's and early 90's model engines. They are externally balanced not internally balanced, so if you use that crank you will need to get a flywheel and harmonic balancer that has been balanced for it. That may have come with the engine, if so then you are ok. Just a suggestion, i would change the balancer and install a new one just for saftey due to they are prone to separate over time because they will not take much abuse.
09-16-2011, 06:23 PM
Another good bit of advice. Ill post pics up of what all Ive got when I pick up the long block next week.
09-22-2011, 06:16 PM
Truck motors didnt come with a roller cam, but the blocks were all the same so go get a spider and dog bones from the junkyard, replacement factory roller lifters, and the cam thrust plate. then you can run a hydraulic roller (for cheap). If the motor needs rebuilt, it wont cost much more to build a 383. Put a good set of heads on top of it all and you'll make good power.
09-23-2011, 08:12 PM
Thanks Novaman, the heads I have are apparently 202 heads #397348x they look to have been ported a bit as well.
as for "spider and dog bones" what do you mean? I planned on a roller set up for the valve train is that just slang for some of the parts?
09-25-2011, 09:47 AM
Yep, thats just stock hydraulic roller stuff. The spider bolts in the lifter valley. Justa peice of sheetmetal that retains the dogbones. Dogbones there are 8 of them, they just sit on 2 lifters, to keep them rolling in the right direction. There is also a small plate that bolts on under the timing chain to hold the cam from walking forward. And make sure you use a steel distributor gear that is compatible with the roller cam you choose.
If you go with the factory style stuff, you save $$ over aftermarket conversion lifters.
09-26-2011, 08:11 PM
Hmmm gotcha, thanks for the info. small question here, Ive got a book from the 70s that discussed building a competitive sbc and it talked about smoothing the lifter valley a bit to aid in oil drainback. has that theory been dismissed by now or is it still popular?