great421

iTrader: (1)

All -

My (5th) 10-bolt has begun making noise - but, it has lasted for almost 3 years behind my M6 turbocharged LT1/4, so I really cannot complain.

However, now that I've decided to 'bite the bullet' and buy a 9 inch, I want to avoid those mistakes others have made when trying to 'save a little money', or due to the fact that they didn't know how critical a particular item would be for a 9 inch rearend.

So, for those who have already purchaed a 9 inch, what (if anything) would you do differently?

Did everything bolt together properly, or was some 'modification' required in order to make it fit / work?

Who did you buy from? Did they provide support or did they disappear after your check cleared? (In other words, who should I use and who should I avoid?)

What 'options' did you purchase, and which one did you wish you had purchased? (Wavetrack?, 35 Splines?, Backbrace?, extra fill and drain ports?)

Can a 9 inch be spec'd out with enough aluminum so that it is not heavier than a 10 bolt?

Can you still get "Mikronited" Ring and Pinion gears for a 9 inch?

Is a new / longer driveshaft required?

(I know - alot of questions, but I only want to buy ONE 9 inch rearend for this car, and I really don't know who to ask other than those members who have already spent their money.)

Thanks in advance!

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Your differential is a huge part of the weight so even with an aluminum case it will be hard to get the weight under a 10bolt or close to if you use a Wavetrac or a S-Trac from Strange. One way to get some weight out is to narrow the housing but to do so it will require new wheels with the proper back spacing.

Yes you can that isn't an issue at all.

The swap from a 9" from a 10bolt will require a longer drive shaft as there is about 3/4 of an inch difference.

Things that people wish they would of done later after their build is to add tow loops on their housing. It really does make it easier to strap a car down and does not interfere with anything.

Hope this helps.

BADBOYZ28

iTrader: (228)

I wish I had gotten the tow hoops as well as a fill plug on top. Thats about the only thing I would change on my 9".

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

x2....

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

<-- this guy didn't make that mistake lol.. should see it in a couple weeks!!

GTMLS3

Get 33 spline axles or better

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

Roll on there "big bucks"....I wanna be like you when I grow up.

Btw, some of your parts are backordered. You wont see it for months Calling Jason today just to be sure....

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

lol the extra $70 wasn't gonna break my bank.. I haven't even got my re-enlistment bonus yet.. I may have to do an RHS 461! with some Mozez heads hand finished and a Marcella intake.. hmmm lol

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I just finished my 9" install yesterday. I'll go ahead and say pay the extra for the drain and fill plugs. I got a drain plug but not a fill port and its a huge pain in the *** filling it from the center section..

I used a stock Ford case with a 31 spline TracLoc and Moser housing and axles. Had I done a bit.more research before I assembled my center section I would have gotten a nodular case and different yoke, but I'm confident it will hold my power

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

Ouch. I can save you some time on the intake choice if you go that way there player

I'd first consider your choices based on application specific use. More track than street and vica versa... Once that's determined (and your honest with yourself, lol), you can start adding the accessories....backbrace, wave or tru-track, spool, spline #'s, etc. As I mentioned earlier, wish I went with some of the conveniences of fill ports and tow hooks.


My car may see the track once a year....if that. I went MWC 9, tru-trac with Yukon 3.70's....no backbrace and a 4ch. My needs were simply based on strength, weight and novelty (these things are gorgeous!).....could have easily gone with an S60 and been fine for my needs. Fit like a glove, minor mods to the brake lines due to narrowing 1" per side. Other than that...went right in....installed by myself too!

Brian2001SS

iTrader: (1)

I was lucky and was able to shorten mine by 6". Good thing it takes awhile. Gives you a chance to go over everything in your head more than once.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

aluminum bolt through center section, I had one and wouldnt even consider another without it. Get plugs and tie downs. IMHO I would just do a M9 case over a regular one too, they are much lighter

great421

iTrader: (1)

Before I went FI, I'd upgraded the 10 bolt w/ Strange Axles, a cast Aluminum diff cover and a Mikronited Ring and Pinion gearset. It's been a good rear end prior to adding my Turbo, but now with (as of last week) 13 lbs of boost, I'm sure a "spirited" 1320 foot run on my MT drag radials will grenade it.

I think my 10 bolt's saving grace is that I have only gone on 660 / 1320 runs on my street tires; but I want to change that situation.

What I really want is a light, strong 9 inch that I purchase once and be done with. I want all of my UMI suspension parts to 'fit' and I do not want to find out (halfway thru the installation) that I needed to "Check this box" if I had wanted to use my stock LT1 rear brakes, or "Check this other box" if I actually wanted to <insert your favorite nightmare situation here>.

I don't want any "surprizes" such as: "Yeah, you could have gotten a center section that was 20 lbs lighter - if you had only asked..." - or - "Oh, you needed to buy a different U-Joint, didn't YOU know that!" - or - "Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, you'll need to get a different driveshaft - I can have one to you in three weeks!"

No.

I want to do this once - and I don't mind paying more for the "right" part vs. getting a "deal" that doesn't work (and therefore isn't).

I don't want to get 80% of the info I need - I want tech support that will actually assist me AFTER my check has cleared.

I don't want compatablility issues with my UMI suspension parts.

Finally, I don't want it to break because my stock weight car is "too heavy".

Is that too much to ask?

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Sounds like your an ideal customer for a new MWC Fab 9" rear end! Give em a call/pm!! You won't regret it

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

Nope. As dj mentioned, I'd give Jason a call and you'll get everything you need that addresses your concerns.

As far as UMI suspension parts....that's what I'm using Everything bolted right up. No problems.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Did you paint the under body of your car with something?

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

When I did my MWC three years ago, I went with the short torque arm which recently gave me problms with breaking loose the tack welded brackets on the chassis. I wish I had dont the long arm early on instead. It is beefier, quieter and produces less clunks and bangs IMO.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Hmm.. so do you think it'd be better to put a full bead of welds on those brackets and it would fix that before it happened to someone else? Any pics of where urs broke?

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

Nope....factory finish. Its just clean....

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I ended up welding the bracket back on and I welded the others while I was at it. I then decided to go long arm because I believed it would be quieter, which it is. IMO, these stamped metal brackets should be welded if one is to run the short TA especially if racing.