jacobsoup

Front: caster l&r=4.1 3.9
camber: .4 .6
Toe: .05 .05

Rear
Camber: -.4 -.2
Toe .3 -.3
Thrust: .3
Shop said they couldn't adjust rear camber? Wtf?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

It's a solid axle. How are you gonna change camber?

Your front you should be able to get around -.5 with stock suspenson

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I truly hate to criticize people, but after a comment like that???

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I was simply going to say "well, they can't".

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

OK first things first:
"crappy alignment results" which settings is so crappy ?
GM engineers devoted years of research into designing the F-BODY and
I as well as most if not all the ppl on this forman think they did a great job, I do not remenber the exact specs but I think OE specs are close to :
Front
camber + 0,50 with +/- .50
caster + 4.00 with +/- .50
toe + 1/6 in with +/- 1/16 in
Rear
camber 0.00 ???
toe + 1/16 in ???
thrust 0.00 +/- 0.13 ( I like + 0.03)

the way I read the OP specs
camber is close
caster is off a little/opposite side settings - this setting will cause a little pull to right( right side need to be a little ahead of left so car does not follow the crown of the road) toe should be ok
rear camber and toe can not be adjusted ( rear toe is very good 0.00)- close enough that they should not be a problem, rear thrust not too bad rear of car MAY swing out to right if loungh hard, this could be corrected with agjustable LCA

now as to car at OE heigth or lowered I think setting should be closer to OE specs as possible for DD as tires are going to contact the road the same if car is 3" lowered OR 3" higher ( the SAI would change as the angle of the upper and lower control arms will change if lowered/ rased
now to add to this IF running AUTO-X or raceing a winding road, a little - camber and little - toe MAY help the handling of car

just my $ 0.02, I am not "A-SPERT" just because I am 3 times the age of the advadge ppl on this board, but have aligned app 78,000 autos/ and still learning WHEN I stopped

enough of this rambling
Johnny

jacobsoup

I'm sorry I meant crappy caster up front. Yes it's a solid axle. My bad

jacobsoup

I'm trying to learn all this alignment stuff. Yes the wheel is straight now and they adjusted toe to proper oe specs but it does pull to the right. They said caster is maxed out.

jacobsoup

I forgot to mention also their machine read 2.0 toe in front when they put it on today so they adjusted that

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

you could be having these issues cause of bad tie rod ends or bushings

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

"... but it does pull to the right. They said caster is maxed out.""

IF caster is maxed out on right, simpley lower caster on left, try to obtain a lower setting about 0.50 on left than the setting on right.
( if right is 3.9 and MAXED out lower the left to about 3.4, if setting are a little under specs it should not cause a problem the main thing is obtain a .50 lower spread on left,how ever the higher caster setting ( up to a point) you obtain the more stability at high speed,However if run too much Caster you will scuff/slide the front tires around a turn rather allowing them to roll around a turn
Johnny

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

+.5 camber in front is around target factory recommendation. I think that value for camber though is a HUGE PIECE OF CRAP!!!! It seems to wear most people's outside edge of their tires. It did with me.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

But has substantial benefits to the handling of the car. I have mine set at the max I can get on my car, about -.8. I plan on getting some adjustable bits up front to get more camber. notching the K-member to get more camber is another option.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Move the right side camber to match the left and you should be able to get 4+ positive caster on the right.

Make one move in a single plane and it affects all the others.

jacobsoup

i will try to take the car back to the alignment shop to get that done. to see if my tie rod is bad just check it for play right?