Generation IV Internal Engine - Crack in brand new LS2 block**** Updated please read****

I just got finished installing my stroker LS2 built from a brand new LS2 block. I cranked the motor up the other day and noticed there was a dripping oil leak above the oil filter. So I replaced the oil gally plug located above the oil filter. Well We were running the car today trying to figure out why it was still leaking and noticed it was leaking from above the oil gally plug. What are my options? Can we weld the block in place still in the car or do I have pull the engine back out and pull the rotating assembly out. Of course welding it in place is the most cost effective way but how could there be a crack in a brand new GM block? I can understand it if I had bought a used block so WTF!! GM will not take the block back because I bought it 2 years ago and it's been sitting in the shop. Besides I can't seem to find my reciept!! Anyone ever see something like this before? What can I do?

55 views and no responses? No one has ever had to deal with this before?

You could weld it after pulling the engine. I wouldn't think you would need to pull the internals. Also I have seen LS2 blocks on ebay for about 600 if it comes down to it. Goodluck with it. I would just get it welded and see how it goes from there. If it continues then replace.

:pics:

But seriously how are we to diagnose an oil leak if you describe it to us?
We can guess but whos to say were gonna come close a few pic would help you out allot...

It may be difficult to get a TIG weld to bite properly with it contaminated with oil from the backside. Depending on where it is you may be able to flush it with mineral spirits, the problem is that youre flushing the bearings as well. Post a pic, that would be helpful.

Can post pics tomorrow.. What on the back of the block besides the valve cover gaskets could be leaking and running down the side the block? I am taking a shot in the dark and wondering if there was a oil leak on the back side of the motor that could it be running down the side the block as well as the back of the block (because there is also oil dripping from the back of the block near the center of the oil pan). The oil is new so it's pretty clear and we may not be able to see if it is coming from a remote location. We had the car in the air while it was running. We can see the oil seeping from the area and just assumed it was a cracked block. We would wipe the side the block just to watch the oil collect in that same location again. But could it be seeping from somewhere above this area, running down and not be able to see it?
Thanks

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit could be cracked and leaking, possibly rear main.

Can post pics tomorrow.. What on the back of the block besides the valve cover gaskets could be leaking and running down the side the block? I am taking a shot in the dark and wondering if there was a oil leak on the back side of the motor that could it be running down the side the block as well as the back of the block (because there is also oil dripping from the back of the block near the center of the oil pan). The oil is new so it's pretty clear and we may not be able to see if it is coming from a remote location. We had the car in the air while it was running. We can see the oil seeping from the area and just assumed it was a cracked block. We would wipe the side the block just to watch the oil collect in that same location again. But could it be seeping from somewhere above this area, running down and not be able to see it?
Thanks

There is a range of blocks that are porous in the back wall of the block that makes it look like other things like rear main or oil pr sensor etc leaking. There is a TIB for this including remediation action. Sorry cant recall the detail apart from the fix may have been clean and RTV.

There is a range of blocks that are porous in the back wall of the block that makes it look like other things like rear main or oil pr sensor etc leaking. There is a TIB for this including remediation action. Sorry cant recall the detail apart from the fix may have been clean and RTV.

Could you or anyone else locate this for me?
Thanks

Subject: 5.3L LC9, LS4, L33, LH6, LM4, 5.7L LS1, LS6, 6.0L LS2, L76, 6.2L L92, 7.0L LS7 - Engine Oil Leak at Rear Cover Assembly Area (Engine Block Porosity RTV Repair Procedure) #05-06-01-034E - (02/12/2007)


Models: 2004-2007 Buick Rainier

2005-2007 Cadillac CTS-V

2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

2003-2007 Chevrolet Corvette, TrailBlazer

2004-2006 Chevrolet SSR

2005-2007 Chevrolet Silverado, Silverado SS

2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala SS, Monte Carlo SS, TrailBlazer SS

2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

2003-2007 GMC Envoy, Sierra

2004-2005 GMC Envoy XUV

2007 GMC Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL Denali

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO

2005-2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

with 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 7.0L VORTEC™ GEN III or GEN IV V8 Engine (RPOs LC9, LS4, L33, LH6, LM4, LS1, LS6, LS2, L76, L92, LS7)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-034D (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine oil leak.

Cause
Upon initial diagnosis, it may be determined that the leak is coming from the rear cover gasket. This condition may be caused by engine block porosity on the sealing surface. This issue pertains to aluminum block applications only.

Correction
Follow the steps for Oil Leak Diagnosis in SI to determine the source of the leak. If the leak has been diagnosed as coming from the engine rear cover assembly, refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and remove the engine rear cover assembly. Inspect for engine block porosity where the engine rear cover mates to the engine block. If porosity is found anywhere on the sealing surface, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity. Refer to the illustration below.


Important: Clean any residual oil from the block and cover before applying the sealant in the next step.

Wipe a small amount of RTV, P/N 12378521 (in Canada, use P/N 88901148), onto the surface using a plastic scraper to fill the porosity.
Remove any excess RTV material, especially from inside the high pressure oil passage. Refer to #1 in the above illustration.
The joint may be closed immediately after applying the RTV. Total joint time after the RTV has been applied must be under 20 minutes.
Important: Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and follow the tightening specifications and sequence.

Reinstall the engine rear cover using a new gasket and a new crankshaft rear main seal. Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI.
Parts Information
Important: For Saab (U.S.) only, use P/N 12345795, Engine Oil Dye (U.S.), or equivalent.

Part Number
Description
Qty

12574293
Gasket - Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing
1

89060436
Seal, Crankshaft Rear Main
1

12378521 (U.S.)

88901148 (Canada)
Sealant
1

12345795 (U.S.)
Dye, Engine Oil
1

10953470 (Canada)
Dye, Engine Oil
1


Warranty Information
Excluding Saab U.S. Models
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

J7510*
Oil Leak -- Rear Cover Area -- Porosity Repair

CTS-V
5.5 hrs

Corvette

- M/T

- A/T


5.9 hrs

5.4 hrs

SSR
5.4 hrs

TrailBlazer/Envoy/Rainier/Saab 9-7X (Canada)

- 2WD

- 4WD


5.7 hrs

6.5 hrs

GTO

- M/T

- A/T


10.2 hrs

10.5 hrs

Grand Prix/Impala/Monte Carlo
5.7 hrs

Silverado//Sierra Models

- M/T

- A/T


4.5 hrs

5.5 hrs

Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon Models
4.5 hrs

Add
With skid plate
0.2 hr

With HP2**
0.5 hr

To clean parts over 48,000 km (30,000 mi)
0.1-0.3 hr

* This labor operation is for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

** HP2 Hybrid Propulsion Electric, AHS2


Saab U.S. Models
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Failed Object
Fault/Reason Code
Location Code
Warranty Type
Repair/Action Code
Labor Time

2161901
Replace part, Seal, End Plate V8 T-Truck
21619
57
0
01
01
6.5 hrs

Add

9821001
R&R Anti-Submarine (Skid) Plate
--
--
--
--
--
0.2 hr

Add
To clean parts over 48,000 km (30,000 mi)
--
--
--
--
--
0.1 to 0.3 hr in 99 time




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Thanks for the add but it's not coming from the rear main seal. It's coming from above the oil galley plug located above the oil filter. There is no visible crack in the block but oil is seeping through the aluminum just above the oil galley plug indicating a crack. I am going to have to pull the engine and have it welded or replaced. That is the only fix. The good news is it is located in the galley itself so there is no worry of block integrity to weld.

Thanks so much for all your help bro..

I wish you luck and that the welding works, but... If you need a replacement block I have an LS2 block for sale for $550. It is listed in the parts for sale thread in my sig.

It will have to come out and be cleaned on both sides as mentioned above in order to get a clean weld. That is the number one issue in getting a good aluminum weld it must be cleaned then cleaned again and once more to be sure it is clean otherwise you will end up with worse than you have now.
There is a product called Devcon it is for aluminum repair and it really works (not a cheesy JB weld) it is a two part epoxy but it has aluminum in it this is industrial strength stuff maybe an easier fix than pulling the motor if it is not real bad.

Here I found a link to the Devcon
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfmbrand=Devcon&family=Aluminum%20Putty%20(F)

Here I found a link to the Devcon
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfmbrand=Devcon&family=Aluminum%20Putty%20(F)

Thanks for the advise but I still have to pull the engine out of the car. There is no obvious crack in the oil galley but it is seeping through the side of the oil galley right above the plug.. So it has to be grinded down then welded..

I'd be mad as hell if my new motor was leaking oil. Are you sure it's not the oil gallery plug O-ring seal?

Did you use a teflon based thread sealant?

Thanks for the advise but I still have to pull the engine out of the car. There is no obvious crack in the oil galley but it is seeping through the side of the oil galley right above the plug.. So it has to be grinded down then welded..

Could something have happened to the block in the 2 years it sat in the shop?

How was it stored?

Put some leak dye in the oil first and get a better idea of where its coming from.

Could something have happened to the block in the 2 years it sat in the shop?

How was it stored?

Put some leak dye in the oil first and get a better idea of where its coming from.

No, it was stored in the original shipping material from GM and stored where it couldn't move.

O.k. motor is out and after further review there is no visual crack in the block. Oil is still seaping out but it looks like it is just seaping through the alluminum. Looks like there was an issue with the casting in that area. We are gonna die check it and check the thickness of the block in that area but thank goodness it's on the outer side of the oil galley and not on the block itself.

Can you post a pic of this?

Can you post a pic of this?

Sure. But there is nothing to see. It just looks like the side of the block and there is oli seaping through it.. But I will go take pics of it tomorrow amd post them up..

o.k. just to update. We had the oil galley plug on the drivers side of the block welded. Put the car back together just to find another oil leak under the first leak just below the side main bolt at the rear of the block. There is no fixing this one and I am in need of a new block. Can anyone get me in touch with a new LS2 block for a decent price? The cheapest price I was quoted by a local dealership was $1029.00 and I pick it from them. Can anyone please give me any information of a place that might have a better price? Thanks so much for all your help..

Not looking forward to going through all this again. Do you guys think I should also replace the rings and bearings? I had about 20 minutes of run time on the new motor when I found the new block to be defective. Thanks

Contact Fraser at AES they always have good deals!

Sorry about your troubles!

Contact Fraser at AES they always have good deals!

Sorry about your troubles!


Thanks man and yea, tell me about it. Who would have thought you could buy a brand new block from GM and have a bad casting and they wouldn't take it back!!

i got an ls2 block in my garage sitting there.

i'm in NC

Thanks man and yea, tell me about it. Who would have thought you could buy a brand new block from GM and have a bad casting and they wouldn't take it back!!

Here is one I found within driving distance from us on craigslist.

http://gulfport.craigslist.org/pts/2638014736.html

i got an ls2 block in my garage sitting there.

i'm in NC

How much shipped to 70047. Is it in good condition?

Here is one I found within driving distance from us on craigslist.

http://gulfport.craigslist.org/pts/2638014736.html

I can't use that block because I would have to buy new pistons. I am using stock bore honed to 4.005 bore.
I don't mind buying a used block but I sure don't want to have to go through this again. If someone has a good working used block at a decent price please let me know. Also so if any sponsors on here think they could help me out with a new LS2 block I would appreciate it.
Thanks

I can't use that block because I would have to buy new pistons. I am using stock bore honed to 4.005 bore.
I don't mind buying a used block but I sure don't want to have to go through this again. If someone has a good working used block at a decent price please let me know. Also so if any sponsors on here think they could help me out with a new LS2 block I would appreciate it.
Thanks

I forgot you went 402.

I think there is also one in the for sale section for $550 the guy's screen name is beaflag von rathburg.

I forgot you went 402.

I think there is also one in the for sale section for $550 the guy's screen name is beaflag von rathburg.

I checked in the forsale section but didn't turn anything up. I am gonna search his name and see what I find. Thanks bro.

Got another new block in and it went to the machine shop today. He said he was gonna jump right on it to get it knocked out so hopefully I can come in and assemble the short block at the beginning of next week. Thanks to all who tried to help.

I forgot you went 402.

I think there is also one in the for sale section for $550 the guy's screen name is beaflag von rathburg.

I wonder if you know my girl man. She is from Slidell to.

I might. I heard awhile back you met my cousin and some buddies on the lake. I don't know if you heard it been going down on the streets in N.O.

Got the old (new) motor torn apart and the new (new) block should be finished at the machine shop. looking to hopefully put everything back together sometime this week and get it back in the car.. :)

What machine shop did you send it to?

What machine shop did you send it to?

R&D Machine shop in Kenner, LA. He use to own Shreeve's automotive. Donnie Whooley is doing the machine work. He's a good friend of mine so he cut me a deal I couldn't refuse.. FREE!! LOL We have a special arrangment. He does all the machine work on the block then I put it together using his tools.. :)

I had this EXACT leak haunt me for the past 2 years in my 2000 Trans Am 5.7 LS1. After swapping rear mains, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets and every sealed sensor on the back of the motor I finally found the leak under a layer of buildup exactly where this leak was described. I first put a 1/8" thick layer of jb weld about the size of the entire wall that was leaking, but that just re-routed the leak out to the bottom of my jb weld blob. I just put half a tube of black rtv on it this morning all around and over the jb hoping to get some sort of relief from this headache. Any other ideas to plug this leak other than replacing the block or having it welded? After over a gallon of oil leaking per month for the past two years, this is getting ridiculously overpriced.