masterz28

iTrader: (8)

I was driving to Buena Park today, it was hot but not Summer hot. Humid I guess and I drove from Ontario to Buena Park, got off Beach and car sputtered and I stopped at La Palma the car died. I parked and restarted and went again, then it died again at another stop light, took three times to start it and it went. Died a third time and i let it cool for about two hours, feels weird, on the way home in traffic going 60 it just felt like it wanted to go out again. Voltage gas all good, all fluids are fine. Everything, on the gauges is fine expect the RPM gauge, when the car died those times it would drop all the way down before my car would turn off.

Any thoughts?

racerfox

iTrader: (4)

data log it

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Would it Only die when u would come to a stop? Not while actually driving?

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

When was the last time you checked the fuel filter?

1Psycho

iTrader: (9)

check the cam position sensor..had a car that was doing the same, tach would drop to 0 then it wanted to die, checked the cam position sensor and it was bad, replaced it and good to go!

racerfox

iTrader: (4)

if you cant figure it out take it to ryne at cms great guy i am sure he can help you

masterz28

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys, I just got it DL and got the 2 o2 sensors that are about to go bad and generator codes. Iguess when I replaced my alternator it set it off.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

About to go out? They don't Have codes for about to go bad.

LustrousWS6

iTrader: (1)

This.

Datzneat

iTrader: (4)

When this happened to me it turned out to be the fuel pump.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Could be number of things. Just get it checked instead of throwing stuff at it.

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

Check pressure to the fuel rail to rule out pump/filter.

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

I agree, last thing you want to do is get mad and start throwing stuff at your car.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Yup, Usually u see a code for the heater element failing especially on cold starts. O2s dont really "go out" but they get sluggish and car responds slowly to fuel/air changes. Good thing is it dont matter at wot. Ive had o2 codes for 2yrs. Lol. Still wouldnt cause the car to die...that ive seen.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

I've had a situation were the car was cutting off and kept throwing O2 codes. It was the PCM shorting out. This was on a PTloser though.

U should really get the o2's done. Killing your MPG too.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

The heating element just brings them up to temp but by the time the car is at op temp thyre good to go. No codes once the car is warm. They work fine in normal driving. I just did a 200mi round trip from La Verne to Lancaster and back and used up 8gal or half tank. Thats around 24mpg, I avg 21mpg usually on cruise control 75mph. On a h/c car I'll take that all day.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

...but yes Ive been lazy and need to change the O2s out still. Lol.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Oh ok it's just your heater circuit that's not good. Still it takes longer to go into closed loop. Usually after 20 seconds with the heater circuit it will hit closed loop. Takes longer with the car warming up alone.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

^^
I know, I still need to change them. Anyway I got a habit of letting the car idle for a good while when cold. Mpgs on the street are a different story.