Mississippi

My brakes are toast, all the way around. Both front rotors are warped. Back ones are about metal on metal. So, I've caught the weight loss bug. I've been deleting **** left and right. And now that I need rotors, I want to get the lightest ones I can run on a daily driver. Naturally drilled, slotted, dimpled, etc rotors will be lighter than stock and work better. Besides that obvious fact, who makes/sells the lightest rotors and pads that I can run daily. I drive my car pretty hard, so I do need something with some kind of longevity. I don't wanna replace rotors and pads again in like 2 months. Anyone got any good suggestions or options for me? Weight loss is my new goal for this car so keep that in mind. Thanks in advanced.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

The only lighter rotor I can think of is the BAER Eradispeed rotor. Very pricey.

But if you really want to lighten things up get yourself a pair of LS1 brakes. The LS1 calipers are dual piston aluminum and the rotors are larger in diameter for better braking.

But honestly even if you change all the above you'll only shave off a max of maybe 8 pounds.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

light is not always DD friendly/safe, that is especially true when it comes to brakes.

stick with NAPA rotors and Hawk HPS pads and you wont have any issues. This setup is good for most AutoX/RoadX guys so im sure its good enough for you. find ways to lighten the car in other ways.

Mississippi

I understand that brakes are VERY crucial for daily driving. I didnt figure I would be so lucky to find a set of lightweight brakes that are dd'able. But I had to throw the question out there. Haha. I guess I will probably just have to stick with the stock type, drilled and slotted.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Two piece rotors in the front are generally lighter, but you pay big $$$ for those. You could always do drag racing brakes, but those are tiny and not DD friendly. Other than that, just stick with the stock brakes.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Actually no they won't. It is all for looks. Ask any professional brake supplier he'll tell you blanks are the best.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I do not suggest running a drag brake setup on the street ever. The rotors are so thin you'll distort them in a couple blocks! haha Your best bet for any real weight savings is a two-piece rotor with an aluminum hat. You're going to save anywhere between 3-8 pounds per side which may not seem like much, but it's unsprung weight so it's considerably more important than say 3 pounds off the body.

Well, yes. If we're talking about brake output. Blanks provide the most adherent friction surface area for the pad to leave its layer of friction compound on.

But, pads expel gasses which can impact how this is distributed across the rotor face. Slotted rotors will help the gasses to escape and "clean" the pad surface so it can leave a fresh patch. Cross-drilling accomplishes this same thing (yes, they both do the same thing) but can weaken the rotor and is more susceptible to cracking. Drilling the rotor also reduces weight, slightly, and increases surface area for thermal distribution. They can be a good choice for many applications.

In the words of Brembo's High-Performance director, Adrian Smith, drilled and slotted rotors are redundant and that's why they do not offer them together. They only sell blank, slotted OR drilled.

I'm not a fan of cross-drilling at all and I'll only run slotted because I road race and have seen a bunch of my Z06 buddies get cracks in their rotors. That being said, plenty of people run drilled rotors on race cars and the argument there is that they replace the rotors every race before cracking can develop into a problem. Rotor cracks aren't a danger until you can catch your nail in the crack, so I've been told. BTW, I've cracked slotted two-piece rotors from track abuse so brake temperatures are very important.