Getting an LS1 with 90k on it . . . what do to while it's out?
09-26-2011, 11:38 AM
#1
Getting an LS1 with 90k on it . . . what do to while it's out? Hey all,
Picked up an LS1/4l60E from a forum member out of a 99 WS6 with ~90k miles. Both are said to have been in fine running condition when pulled.
The plan is to put the 4l60e up against my current Gen1 SBC (with the needed adapters) while I slowly piece together what is needed to do the LS1 swap into a First Gen Camaro.
My question is, what, if anything, should I do to the LS1 while it's out. I planned on painting it, getting what I can done of the LS6 PCV retro done, and perhaps replacing the oil pump as I believe they were known to sometimes go on the LS1s?
Should I do a teardown/ring/gasket replacement, or pretty much just run it as is until it goes? Not going to any crazy power at the moment, more doing this because I like fuel injection more than carbs, and my wimpy 307 is both under-powered and NOT efficient in the least bit.
Thoughts on what I should do now vs. later are appreciated. Thanks all!
Picked up an LS1/4l60E from a forum member out of a 99 WS6 with ~90k miles. Both are said to have been in fine running condition when pulled.
The plan is to put the 4l60e up against my current Gen1 SBC (with the needed adapters) while I slowly piece together what is needed to do the LS1 swap into a First Gen Camaro.
My question is, what, if anything, should I do to the LS1 while it's out. I planned on painting it, getting what I can done of the LS6 PCV retro done, and perhaps replacing the oil pump as I believe they were known to sometimes go on the LS1s?
Should I do a teardown/ring/gasket replacement, or pretty much just run it as is until it goes? Not going to any crazy power at the moment, more doing this because I like fuel injection more than carbs, and my wimpy 307 is both under-powered and NOT efficient in the least bit.
Thoughts on what I should do now vs. later are appreciated. Thanks all!
09-26-2011, 11:52 AM
#2
i think it really depends on what you want the engine for. if you're going to leave it fairly close to stock i'd only replace the oil pump and timing chain. these engines are known to go 200k miles in stock or near stock condition.
if you are eventually wanting to cam it or spray n2o, i'd freshen up the top end at the very least. redo the heads and install new lifters.
before the day is up, i'm guessing more than one person will suggest a new stroker short block and some tfs and/or ai heads haha.
if you are eventually wanting to cam it or spray n2o, i'd freshen up the top end at the very least. redo the heads and install new lifters.
before the day is up, i'm guessing more than one person will suggest a new stroker short block and some tfs and/or ai heads haha.
09-26-2011, 02:45 PM
#3
Well, the eventual setup will be a mild, low compression forged motor that will get the bulk of it's power from boost. I'd like to run a fuel efficient, but fun setup, much like I did with with my mustang (original 300hp na, 500rwhp on 12 psi).
But, not sure how long I want to sit on the LS1 building a good forged shortblock, when there are other things I'd like to put that money to in the mean time.
I think the idea is to run a mild LS1 around the stock power levels, maybe a bit more, and then build or buy an ls1 forged shotblock to eventually swap over when I'm ready to boost. That way I'm not waiting a few years before enjoying the MPG and power benefits of the LS1. I just don't have enough experience with these motors to know how tired they generally are at 90k miles (and yes a lot will depend on prior use).
I just came from an 04 CTS-V, so I am not wholly unfamiliar with the LSx motors
.
But, not sure how long I want to sit on the LS1 building a good forged shortblock, when there are other things I'd like to put that money to in the mean time.
I think the idea is to run a mild LS1 around the stock power levels, maybe a bit more, and then build or buy an ls1 forged shotblock to eventually swap over when I'm ready to boost. That way I'm not waiting a few years before enjoying the MPG and power benefits of the LS1. I just don't have enough experience with these motors to know how tired they generally are at 90k miles (and yes a lot will depend on prior use).
I just came from an 04 CTS-V, so I am not wholly unfamiliar with the LSx motors
.
09-26-2011, 06:44 PM
#4
consider some caltek rod bolts and a ls2 timing chain .check the heads for valve seat leaks,install new valve seals if you get a valve job..install some new springs to match the cam you want to use.if you remove the rods and pistons you will need to resize the rod big ends.
09-26-2011, 07:03 PM
#6
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rod bearing clearance should be checked if you change the rod bolts IMO. installed an ls2 timing chain this weekend for the first time. ive always just used a complete timing set. looks a lot better than the ls1 piece.
09-26-2011, 07:19 PM
#7
Rod bolts aren't a bad idea it just depends on what RPM's you are going to turn. Have you done a compression test on the engine or have any idea what the oil pressure was on it?
These engines are strong and will run forever. A oil pump and chain isn't a bad idea. But if you are there you might as well put a cam in it.
These engines are strong and will run forever. A oil pump and chain isn't a bad idea. But if you are there you might as well put a cam in it.
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09-26-2011, 10:56 PM
#8
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Rod bolts aren't a bad idea it just depends on what RPM's you are going to turn. Have you done a compression test on the engine or have any idea what the oil pressure was on it?
These engines are strong and will run forever. A oil pump and chain isn't a bad idea. But if you are there you might as well put a cam in it.
These engines are strong and will run forever. A oil pump and chain isn't a bad idea. But if you are there you might as well put a cam in it.
What brand oil pump would you go with?
09-27-2011, 08:53 AM
#10
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Sounds like you may plan on doing something else in the future. So in my honest opinion... leave it alone and run it. I bought my car with 100k miles on the clock and proceeded to put another 15k HARD track miles on it. And road course miles at that. Yeah it smoked on decel from high rpm but... it's an LS1. I just tell people it's a normal part of the lubrication/combustion chamber cooling system ha. Let 'er eat bud.
10-04-2011, 11:54 PM
#11
I'm thinking I might just make it look pretty, run it as is, and slowly put together the upgrades I want for it. We'll see though. Just moved so I have to recover from the furniture buying that took place lol, so it may be awhile before I can get the engine in.
10-05-2011, 03:00 PM
#14
If you have the money to send them out to be ported or hot tanked then yes, but I mean just cleaning the oil and carbon deposits on the runners and chambers. The same with the pistons, just clean the top (while they are still in the car) and get rid of the carbon deposits.
I've taken my intake manifold off a few times and the runners look nasty with deposits. And it's a pain in the *** to clean them well while in the car. If I ever had my engine out, those would be easy to clean.
I've taken my intake manifold off a few times and the runners look nasty with deposits. And it's a pain in the *** to clean them well while in the car. If I ever had my engine out, those would be easy to clean.
10-05-2011, 04:26 PM
#17
Originally I saw comment on the LS1 oil pump problems on a website detailing the LS6 PCV upgrade. When searching google, many threads such as the one below are found.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-problems.html
With my limited LS1/LS6 experience, I don't know whether the pump failures are the exception, or the rule, so I want to play it safe. Though I don't plan on doing much to the stock LS1 initially, I also don't want it going toast after a few k miles because I didn't replace the pump.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-problems.html
With my limited LS1/LS6 experience, I don't know whether the pump failures are the exception, or the rule, so I want to play it safe. Though I don't plan on doing much to the stock LS1 initially, I also don't want it going toast after a few k miles because I didn't replace the pump.
10-05-2011, 04:41 PM
#18
Yeah I've seen those. I suppose if I was doing an engine I'd reach for a pump that's been ported. I don't think there's anything to break in these pumps.
Old school pumps could grind on their caps with pressure from the cam. These modern pumps are certainly better designed and located/driven.
Old school pumps could grind on their caps with pressure from the cam. These modern pumps are certainly better designed and located/driven.
10-05-2011, 05:33 PM
#19
Thanks. Being somewhat unfamiliar with the "gotchas" of these motors, I thought I'd just play it safe.
Engine arrived last night, so I need to get it on a stand and unwrapped now. Just moved too, so now I need my own tools, as my Dad's garage used to be 5 minutes away, and now its 35 minutes 
.
Engine arrived last night, so I need to get it on a stand and unwrapped now
. Just moved too, so now I need my own tools, as my Dad's garage used to be 5 minutes away, and now its 35 minutes .
10-05-2011, 06:03 PM
#20
I would at least to a compression test and pull the valve covers. That will help tell you the condition of the engine. I know you bought it from a forum member but it never hurts to be sure. I've seen quite a few threads about someone buying an engine and it turns out to be junk.