Help from umi
09-29-2011, 05:37 PM
#1
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Help from umi i am wanting to now which is better roto joint or poly bushing? Why is it better? i am wanting to order some on car adjustable cromemoly lca, and a panhard bar relocation kit? Can you guys help
Thanks justin
Thanks justin
09-29-2011, 07:43 PM
#2
I'm not UMI, but I'm a UMI dealer, and I pushed hard for an articulating joint that was rebuildable. I can tell you why I wanted that, and what poly can do for you as well.
Which is better depends on what you are trying to get done. Poly is generally the most quiet because noises are damped by the bushing material. But that same poly material is hard, and doesn't move well. That's great for things like wheelhop when you don't want the axle shaking. Not so good for the times you want the axle to pivot. Having a boxed or tubular arm, and then poly bushings that are stiff teams up to make things a little too locked together. When you say, hit a bump or drop a wheel into a rut on one side only, having everything so rigid then causes the body to get drug around a lot more. Think about a rock-crawler Jeep, you need articulation, and that's what Roto-joints give you. They are also rebuildable and serviceable where rod-ends are not (rod-ends also give articulation).
To keep noise down, you could run a hybrid LCA. What we call "poly/roto-joint" combo's. That gives you a poly bushing in front to help with noise isolation, but a roto-joint in the rear to allow the axle to move in roll. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=96&ModelID=7 If you click on the picture, it'll get bigger.
And we can have them made in CM for $40 over the normal price. You need only request that when ordering, along with the color preference of red or black.
I also have the PHB relocation kits. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7 Same deal, need only tell me what color when you order.
As for any other questions, you can feel free to call me. Be happy to help you with the best answers I can give.
Which is better depends on what you are trying to get done. Poly is generally the most quiet because noises are damped by the bushing material. But that same poly material is hard, and doesn't move well. That's great for things like wheelhop when you don't want the axle shaking. Not so good for the times you want the axle to pivot. Having a boxed or tubular arm, and then poly bushings that are stiff teams up to make things a little too locked together. When you say, hit a bump or drop a wheel into a rut on one side only, having everything so rigid then causes the body to get drug around a lot more. Think about a rock-crawler Jeep, you need articulation, and that's what Roto-joints give you. They are also rebuildable and serviceable where rod-ends are not (rod-ends also give articulation).
To keep noise down, you could run a hybrid LCA. What we call "poly/roto-joint" combo's. That gives you a poly bushing in front to help with noise isolation, but a roto-joint in the rear to allow the axle to move in roll. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=96&ModelID=7 If you click on the picture, it'll get bigger.
And we can have them made in CM for $40 over the normal price. You need only request that when ordering, along with the color preference of red or black. I also have the PHB relocation kits. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=67&ModelID=7 Same deal, need only tell me what color when you order.
As for any other questions, you can feel free to call me. Be happy to help you with the best answers I can give.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
09-30-2011, 11:27 AM
#4
A PHB relocation kit is very different from an Adjustable PHB. Forgive me, but now I'm not sure which you are after.
You can run the relocation kit, and an adjustable PHB together, and adjust the PHB for length. You can run an Adjustable PHB without a relocation kit too. In fact the relocation kit isn't something I'd use (I also never had a mongo-sized exhaust) because it actually lowers the right side of the PHB putting it on more of an angle, which from a pure suspension geometry point of view isn't what you want. But it helps clear big exhausts, and that's a priority to some.
Sounds to me like you need an Adjustable PHB to go with your LCA's. Not so sure you need the relocation kit.
You can run the relocation kit, and an adjustable PHB together, and adjust the PHB for length. You can run an Adjustable PHB without a relocation kit too. In fact the relocation kit isn't something I'd use (I also never had a mongo-sized exhaust) because it actually lowers the right side of the PHB putting it on more of an angle, which from a pure suspension geometry point of view isn't what you want. But it helps clear big exhausts, and that's a priority to some.
Sounds to me like you need an Adjustable PHB to go with your LCA's. Not so sure you need the relocation kit.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
10-01-2011, 08:26 PM
#5
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Strano i want to order those parts. I am wanting the on car adjustable lca with poly/roto joint in chromemoly in black and the umi panhard bar relocated in black. How much will this run me and when do your phones open thanks justin
10-03-2011, 09:22 AM
#6
I'm here now, but will only be here today until about 11AM (going to get the new autox car/project today). You can "order" via the website in so far as you can submit the parts and notes you want (color, what you want in CM) to me. I'll then work up a total and call you back to finish the order and get your payment information.
Why don't I take CC stuff on-line anymore? Hackers are getting too good and if we don't have the cards online, they can't get it.
Why don't I take CC stuff on-line anymore? Hackers are getting too good and if we don't have the cards online, they can't get it.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
10-03-2011, 03:00 PM
#7
Copy & Paste Moderator
Sam pretty much covered it. Roto-joints allow similar articulation and control to a rod end, but they aren't as harsh, last longer, and are rebuildable.
I have double-ended roto-joints on my Formula. Its not as quiet / comfortable as rubber, but its more comfortable / quieter than rod-ends. I've had both and can speak from experience.
Poly bushings bind and don't allow the axle to articulate. This is fine for a drag racer, but bad for Daily Driving and AutoX & Road Racing.
A good compromise is a Poly / roto-joint rod. Poly on the body-side, roto-joint on the axle-side. You'll get most of the articulation and less of the noise / roughness.
I drive my car every day on New England roads which aren't known for being smooth, but I find roto-joints acceptable. I found rod-ends too harsh and wore out too quickly which is why I switched to roto-joints.
For years, I was waiting for someone to build and sell control arms and PHB for the f-body with Johnny Joints or an equivalent and UMI finally did it a while back. FYI, the Roto-Joint is essentially a variation of the Johnny Joint. Google "Johnny Joint". The first hit should be Currie's page. Watch the video for an excellent description and demonstration.
I have double-ended roto-joints on my Formula. Its not as quiet / comfortable as rubber, but its more comfortable / quieter than rod-ends. I've had both and can speak from experience.
Poly bushings bind and don't allow the axle to articulate. This is fine for a drag racer, but bad for Daily Driving and AutoX & Road Racing.
A good compromise is a Poly / roto-joint rod. Poly on the body-side, roto-joint on the axle-side. You'll get most of the articulation and less of the noise / roughness.
I drive my car every day on New England roads which aren't known for being smooth, but I find roto-joints acceptable. I found rod-ends too harsh and wore out too quickly which is why I switched to roto-joints.
For years, I was waiting for someone to build and sell control arms and PHB for the f-body with Johnny Joints or an equivalent and UMI finally did it a while back. FYI, the Roto-Joint is essentially a variation of the Johnny Joint. Google "Johnny Joint". The first hit should be Currie's page. Watch the video for an excellent description and demonstration.
Last edited by VIP1; 10-03-2011 at 03:08 PM.
