Parsticks

Have a 98 T/A. Gonna replace upper and lower front control arms, pads rotors and shocks.
Any advice on the front shock swap. I know there's a coil over that has to come out with the shock. Do I need any other parts? Read something about the tower cap or base or something?
Thanks

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

Pretty strait forward. since you are are doing the A-arms you will have to take the spindle/hub out of the way anyways. all there really is to it is unbolting everything. by saying coil over that has to come off, i assume you are talking about the upper shock mount that comes off with the spring/shock assembly. make sure you have a set of spring compressors handy so when you unbolt the top shock nut from the mount the **** dont go flying. since you have a 98' you might want alot of wd-40 a lot of guys have severe rust problems with the top shock nut once they take it out. why are you replacing the a-arms anyways? just curious. depending on what it looks like when you take them out you might need the new shock mount, but they should be good.

and oh yea. for the drivers side shock you are going to have to unbolt you master cylinder from the firewall and pull it out some to move it out of the way to get the rear T-50 torx bolt once you move it out of the way you have enough room to use a ratchet and get it out.

Parsticks

Dude awesome info. Thanks. The bushings are starting to sqeuak. GM sells the complete assembled A arms for around 150 each so it wasn't worth pressing them out. The new ones even come with ball joints! I'll have to get the spring compressors. Not must rust down in south fl so I shouldn't have a problem getting them off. She's only got 50000 miles and stays in the garage. She's mint. Just keeping her running nice.
Thanks again.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

150$ for a GM arm? really????

MidknyteRacer

Well I didn't think there would be much rust either when I changed my springs and shocks, and I'm in eastern NC. But I did in fact run into a lot of rust on the passenger side, which I was told is prone to rusting due to the way that side is setup. I couldn't get the nut off the strut/strut mount for the life of me, and I'm sure I could have worked at it more but I just took the passenger side spring/strut assembly to a local shop and they got it off for me, and I proceeding with what I was doing. All I got to say is, have fun with that spring compressor, I just rented one from O'rielly's for free, well, you get your money back when you return it. And its not hard, it just gets tiring after awhile. For shocks though I went with KYB's. I'm still feeling them out because I don't drive my car much, but the initial feeling wasn't to impressive, but whats done is done for now. Good luck!

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Go with either Bilstein or KYB AGX shocks, and get a nice set of lowering springs while you are in there!

I've got a ton of suspension I'm selling.. full sets of Bilstein shocks, KYB AGX adjustable shocks, Eibach springs, SLP springs, let me know if you need anything.

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Go with either Bilstein or KYB AGX shocks, and get a nice set of lowering springs while you are in there!

I've got a ton of suspension I'm selling.. full sets of Bilstein shocks, KYB AGX adjustable shocks, Eibach springs, SLP springs, let me know if you need anything.

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

a set of MOOG bushing's and ball joints for both upper and lower arms, for both sides will be less than $150 for each a-arm. I will tell you though pressing out the bushings is a bitch, and the lower ball joint is a little tricky too due to how the a-arm is shaped. i was able to do them all with a hydraulic arbor press with a bunch of different sockets used as adapterd and some wd40/hammer. was interesting to say the least. so if you want to spend the time and save some money....

i dont know when you are planning on doing this, but i have a set of stock lower control arms with brand new moog ball joints and bushings, and i sanded and painted them black(only have <20miles on them since the install) that will be for sale when i get back home if you are interested......

Parsticks

I already have all the parts but thanks. I've got a set of bilsteins and all the new arms. Also have 4 rotors and sets of pads and a flowmaster cat back to put on.
As far as replacing bushings and balljoints instead of buying new, I priced it out and I'm paying a little more, but I've replaced them before myself and althought it wasn't the end of the world there's nothing fun about it.
Thanks

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

i just did a shock/spring swap last week.

your for sure going to need AIR to get those top shock bolts OUT! there will be way to much rust and gunk sitting on top of that nut.....AIR will zip them suckers right off!!

also it works best atleast for me it did....if you have like an impact tool to use on the spring compressor ...just gets way to tight to do it all by hand.

compress your springs before you take them somewhere to have the top bolts removed.....they shouldnt charge you for it. ...cause it will take them all of 5mins to do it...if that!

CLEAN everything before you put it all back together.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Is it worth replacing the upper control arm too? -- it would seem the lower a-arm bushings would go out much sooner, since they are exposed to more elements being lower.

Be sure to get some anti-seaze lubricant for the top shock rod threads.

Watch the shock/spring install video in this section -- it will give you a decent overview.

Stay away from the auto parts rental compressors -- they suck! You will have a MUCH easier time with THIS one:


This one sucked:

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

pictures are not coming thru...i think you have to be a member of the site they are coming from....photobucket the bitches!....lol

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

^ Pics updated.

stroked383HSR

iTrader: (12)

yep!..the bottom ones suck ***!..thats what i used...you have to beat them on the springs and you have to hammer them off the springs plus they walk all over when your wrenching down on them screwing up the whole process.

Maroboy

iTrader: (1)

Man. I was doing this yesterday. Those bolts on the front shocks are a. Nightmare.
Specially the ones under the brake reservoir.
I used something called. Pb blasting. It's a white bottle. Wd40 didn't work for me.
Other than those bolts. The rest of the job is easy

Maroboy

iTrader: (1)

Man. I was doing this yesterday. Those bolts on the front shocks are a. Nightmare.
Specially the ones under the brake reservoir.
I used something called. Pb blasting. It's a white bottle. Wd40 didn't work for me.
Other than those bolts. The rest of the job is easy

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

i dont know, i own a pair of the spring compressors pictured at the bottom and they have always worked fine for me, no walking or getting stuck in the springs. Mabe just user error.....

theaccountant

Where do you get that spring compressor in the top picture?

pewter2002

iTrader: (4)

No need to beat that 2nd type of compressor- lie each "hand" on a coil, then wind them along to the desired spot on the coil, if needed. That being said, I've never used the other type, maybe it does work better? Variable rate coil springs prove tricky due to the tightly wound areas that the "hands" are difficult to manoeuver over them so...

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

I picked up a set at O'Reilly's:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...-1_-1&pt=N0724

The U-bolts are WAY simpler to get exactly where you want.