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snapped my driveshaft, broke my torque arm etc.

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Old 10-01-2011, 01:52 AM
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Default snapped my driveshaft, broke my torque arm etc.

snapped my drive shaft and broke my torque arm on the 1-2 shift tonight. I had a safety loop, but it still smashed the **** out of my trans tunnel, and my trans is leaking (I think its just a tail shaft seal)





so my question is, what aftermarket driveshaft is pretty stout? I have a moser 12 bolt. Also, does anyone know if I can just get the end part of the torque arm, instead of buying a complete new one? its a spohn long tube torque arm with a safety loop.

BTW, I am still trying to pull my ***** out of my throat. It scared the living **** out of me. This was all motor, no nitrous (thank god)

Last edited by kidcamaro98; 10-01-2011 at 12:39 PM.
Old 10-01-2011, 04:50 PM
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looks just like my stock drive shaft when it snapped, it seriously cracked my tailhousing when the driveshaft broke, I had to replace the tailhousing. I went with a spohn drive shaft after my stocker broke. I then switched to a PST when I got my MWC 9". As for the Torque arm bracket, I would call spohn, I'm sure they can sell you just the bracket.
Old 10-01-2011, 08:08 PM
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Since its a moser. Have some bushings made. Put a bolt into bracket and you will see What I'm saying. None id these tq arms are drilled for the bolt size for a moser 12 bolt. If you can't get that bracket separate I have an extra from a tunnel mount from spohn.
Old 10-01-2011, 10:11 PM
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it turns out spohn sells the bracket seperate and they have a specific one for the moser 12 bolt.
Old 10-01-2011, 10:37 PM
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Hercules shifting
Old 10-02-2011, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tillery
Since its a moser. Have some bushings made. Put a bolt into bracket and you will see What I'm saying. None id these tq arms are drilled for the bolt size for a moser 12 bolt. If you can't get that bracket separate I have an extra from a tunnel mount from spohn.
What should the bushings be made out of? I will be putting an aftermarket TA on my Moser 12 bolt soon. Thanks!
Old 10-02-2011, 08:00 AM
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http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRA35...-PST-DRA35.htm

This is the driveshaft that I recommend. Bob
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:33 PM
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Good thing your insured drew , have ins pay for new mods !!!!!!!
Old 10-02-2011, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob@BruteSpeed
http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRA35...-PST-DRA35.htm

This is the driveshaft that I recommend. Bob
im not interested in aluminum anymore.

however, I will be getting the 3" steel PST one from you guys with the U joint for the 12 bolt.
Old 10-02-2011, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 93v8clone
Good thing your insured drew , have ins pay for new mods !!!!!!!
I will pay more for the deductible then it will cost to fix.
Old 10-02-2011, 04:59 PM
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You won't break that DS that Bob quoted. No reason to be scared of aluminum. The problem is the stock DS is only like .060 thick. That's why they break.
Old 10-02-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
You won't break that DS that Bob quoted. No reason to be scared of aluminum. The problem is the stock DS is only like .060 thick. That's why they break.
Im sure I wont.

however Im sure I wont break the one that is $120 cheaper either!

http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRS3-...g-PST-DRS3.htm
Old 10-02-2011, 07:12 PM
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the d/s broke cause the trq arm mount broke and dropped the snout of the rear diff . not the d/s fault broke . blame the faulty part



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