boilerdawg

I have an 03 ZO6 with 40k miles. The LS6 broke a valve spring and wrecked havoc on #5 cylinder and head. That cylinder is cracked, not the block just the cylinder. I have had it at a po-dunk machine shop that is local to me. Finally he tells me that it cant be resleeved because its a "flanged" sleeve. This really doesnt make sense to me. I am not a machinst but i have had some experience with aluminum outboard motas. I have even taken an aluminum block outboard, placed it in a oven and heated it, removed the bad sleeve and replaced the sleeved myself. it really was not hard at all. i called another local machine shop he made a few calls and he tells me it can be replaced but the block has to be placed in a "jig" and that it was a major PIA to replace. He says the labor alone would run $450 plus the cost of the sleeve.

what is your experience with this? has anyone replaced a sleeve in thier LS6? am i getting the run around? or am i being primed to be plucked? ive found another block for about 800 bucks ready to build. someone with first hand knowledge please holla back on this.
THANKS!!!

PREDATOR-Z

The only way I would re-sleeve is if I did it to increase bore and cubes. Only then it is worth the $ spent IMO.
Talk to Steve D. at Race Engine Development

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Go with another block. PS - you can find them a lot cheaper than $800...

O2Form

Its not a pressed in sleeve like you think. http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...4/007/article/ read this for more info

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Aluminum LS engines are cast around the eight cylinder bore sleeves. These sleeves have ribs on the outside so they're locked into the block casting.

They cannot be pulled out, they must be cut away by machining.

I agree, with the low cost and good availability of blocks, it's just not worth re-sleeving your block.

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

Darton does make a repair sleeve for the LS1 LS6 engines. I have used them to repair blocks with scored cylinders.

In your case, if the sleeve is cracked the block behind it will be cracked as well. I would recommend you go with another block or purchase a new short block from one of the sponsors.

Steve

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

What's this!?! My #7 cylinder has some scratches from a dropped valve and I was planning on shipping everything to you for the M.I.D. kit, but if it can be fixed...... hot damn!

boilerdawg

thanks guys for all the info and input. looks like ill be buying another block. just out of curisoity, has anyone tried to heat up a LS6 block to see if the sleeve would slide out and a new one in? IDK how much expansion you get when this is done, but it does work well on Outboards. I know the sleeves are different and the entire casting process is diferent. Just wondering if anyone has tried this?

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

The LS6 sleeve will not come out of the block. Molten aluminum is poured into the mold and around the sleeves which have a ribbed exterior surface to hold them in place and to increase the surface area for better heat transfer.

The only block the sleeves can be removed from is the LS7 block. Even on those I machine them out.

Steve

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

On the LS7, I can repair one hole if that is all you want done. If the block itself is cracked due to the dropped valve, most are, I weld the block then machine and install a new Darton Seal Tight dry liner.

I highly recommend the entire block be done but that is up to you. If I have to weld the block, the adjacent hole, cyl. 5 will go out of round enough where you will end having to get a set of .005" over pistons to get the holes round through honing. If I replace all the liners, you can reuse the pistons you have, at least the seven that are still good. The Darton dry liner will go out to 4.185" bore normally aspirated by the way.

Steve

gi8e7oi825

iTrader: (32)

Well, it's only an LS1, and I have no idea if its cracked. I wouldn't know where to begin looking! I guess (to play it safe) it's back to my original plan