Inetba

2002 TA street application probably going to be daily driven.
No emissions requirements.
Want to keep car N/A.
Looking for as much low end torque in as flat of a curve as I can get without going bigger than a Torquer V2 cam.

I've been lurking around, listening to cams, and I think I have everything I need figured out. I'm not looking for massive peak hp numbers because peak hp doesn't mean anything when your dyno looks like ________^ because having all your power at 6k rpm means nothing on the street.

As for budget, I'm going to be realistic. I know it'll take me a while but I'd rather buy it once and get it right.

I don't know anything about V8s so please, if you have any advice or better suggestions, don't hold back! Also, I'm listing EVERYTHING I'd buy so if I forget anything (eg: with this you need longer fuel lines) please let me know.

I want to start out with a carbon fiber WS9 Outlaw hood. Then either the fast ram air induction kit or the Fast toys 104mm lid. 100mm mass air sensor. FAST 102mm throttle body and intake mani (also buying gasket replacement) and FAST Ls1 fuel rails.

Next I want to focus on the exhaust. Looking around I think I like the American Racing Headers 1 7/8" x 3" Headers & Y-Pipe. Then I want to get a 3" electric cut out right after the Y pipe and then end it with a GMMG. I'm hoping with this setup it'll be decently quiet when I keep off the gas until I open the cut out and then it can really roar. Oh, I also want to get the ENTIRE exhaust jet hot coated. I love that stuff.

As for gearing I want to get the 35 spline M9 rear with 3.50 gearing. I like the idea of being at 1000 rpm @ 45mph when I'm driving to work. I don't know what other options I should get with the M9 so I'll leave it at that.

Twin disk clutch... I don't know anything about them but the ZR1 uses them. Good enough for me.

Either aluminum or carbon fiber drive shaft. I like how carbon fiber won't split you in half if it breaks, but aluminum costs less.

Here's where I really start to just guess what works.

Yella Terra Ultralite 1.7 roller rockers. All I know is light is good.
AFR 205 head.
Torquer V2 111 lsa or 228R 112 lsa.
Comp titanium retainers
comp beehive valve springs.


Now that that is over with, I have heard a lot about valve train noise and how you can just get the correct size push rod and it will quiet it down a little bit. I'm not sure how to use the various calculators online so any assistance there would be awesome!

Thank you for taking your time reading/grading/critiquing my build!

WayFast84

First of all build the car from the back to the front. You made no mention about suspension and 1000rpm will suck.. I also don't recommend an off the shelf grind. Whats a few extra bucks getting something perfect for your needs?

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

Def want to look into LCAs/LCA Brackets. Good build so far, I'd also suggest that you get a higher gear ratio than 3.50. Since it's an M6, A 3.73-4.11 will be ok. 1k rpm with a cam, cruising, is not fun.

Inetba

Alright in that case I'll go with the 3.75 gears.

As for suspension, I don't know anything about suspension. All I know is lowering springs make the ride unbearable.

And I wouldn't mind getting a custom grind cam except I don't know what I want. Would I just have them custom make a cam with the same specs as the torquer v2? Or would I say "This is what I want from my cam, now how can we make this happen?"

Thank you guys again for the advice! This place is an absolute encyclopedia of knowledge!

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

Go to texas-speed.com / speedinc.com / hawksthirdgen.com and parooze around the suspention area. You'll see whats there, you can look through many threads before, and see what works and what doesn't for people.

Inetba

Awesome! I love that texas speed website.

Inetba

So, I'm not really sure which suspension parts to look at to help me get this power to the ground so I'm just going to upgrade everything.

Are adjustable A-Arms necessary? What do they adjust? Does it just make alignments easier? Necessary for lowering?

Metco lower control arm set.

The LCA relocation brackets come with the M9.

Madman panhard bar

BMR shock tower brace - this thing looks absolutely beastly.

UMI 3 point subframe - I hope this works with the convertible.

Since I would like to be able to slide around corners, I don't think I'll get an absolutely masssive rear sway bar. So I guess a 35mm front sway bar and a 22mm rear. Also looking into heavy duty brackets just to be safe.

M9 comes with torque arm.

I guess I'd get the QA1 and use stock springs because I've heard eibach makes awful springs for the F-body not only that but there are a lot of tall curbs where I live and I don't really want to drop more unless I need to.

Once again thank you all for helping me out!

Inetba

Oh and I guess that UMI road race K member. I love saving weight with suspension parts.

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

Wait you have a convertible? Then the sub-frame connectors are a MUST!

There's a whole thread on what a shock tower brace doesn't really do. The final conclusion has been, it's just eye candy, and doesn't do anything.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

You wont see much benefit from the induction stuff until the cam and other motor stuff is done so hold off on it til later.. Might want to look at the trunnion upgrade for the stock rockers instead of the YT's...

The rest of the stuff can be done in any order but do the exhaust up front because it will pick you up a little power and you will really enjoy the sound.

Sounds like a pretty good plan.

Inetba

Well, I'm glad it sounds like a good plan. Yeah I was worried about the convertible and body flex so I'm definitely getting the sub frame connectors.

As for the strut tower bar, I know it's mostly eye candy, but it's really pretty eye candy. I love the look of them even if they don't help with anything.

I looked up custom cams and they mentioned something like XE, XFI, etc. What are those letters and what do they mean?

Edit: The XFI and XE thing were the lobes. The options are XFI XER LSK XE and LSL.

Inetba

Ok so I looked up the XFI thing and apparently it's how aggressive the cam is and how quickly it will eat up your springs so I have decided to switch to:

PAC 1518 springs with titanium retainers

on a 224/224 .609"/.609" 118lsa cam.

I don't want the gas smell and apparently a high lsa lowers the powerband and flattens it out a bit which is what I was looking for in the beginning. I think at most I would go with a 236/236 .615"/.615" 118lsa cam. I want to keep overlap below 2* to keep the gas smell away.

I also don't want to use dual springs because I've heard they get noisy when it's cold and here in kansas it gets COLD.

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html
Here's a good read. Should help answer some questions.

Inetba

Yup, that's where I got most of my ideas from. That's a really good read everyone should definitely start there!

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

Do what you want, that's my advice, but a 118 lobe sep, just for the sound/smell, is the wrong answer.

Inetba

Sorry, I guess I should've explained myself better. I was thinking 118lsa because I read that a higher LSA flattens the torque curve out more and lowers the RPM band. With every car I own I rarely go above 2.5k rpm so I wanted to shift the peak torque to as close to 3k rpm as I can. In regards to smell I could go all the way down to 112lsa which from I've read is a very common choice.

However, it IS possible to make power with a 118lsa. The LPE GT11 cam has a 118lsa however that's with a hard reverse split (215/231) and very aggressive cams (.631/.644) and that's at -11* overlap.

I do have another question though. Do most big cams (234/236) offer higher than stock torque at 1-2k rpm? If so, I think I might just go big and be done with it.

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

The higher lobe sep brings in the power sooner, and you will still be caming out at 1-2K.

I suggest a 224R or a 228R if you're going to be DD and pick your lobe sep.

Inetba

What does caming out mean? Does that mean with a higher LSA even big cams start making big gains at lower RPMs?

When I first started going to this site the first cam I fell in love with was the 228R. It just keeps pulling me back!

Thank you for all your help!

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

It's a term I've used that the cam hasn't evened out, at cruising rpm.

Fry_

228R is a good shelf cam for the street but I'd go custom 224/228 110+1, and if you don't want to smell gas/exaust get a catted y instead of a ORY you'll loose very little power to the cats. Your going to need a better fuel pump for that kind of power, and a good clutch setup. I'd go with a tick master cylinder, monster stage 2, a new stock slave cylinder, and throwout pilot bearings. tick performance has a complete kit with everything you need, and if you don't have a factor hurst shifter then get a aftermarket one. I'd get the 104mm lid, FTRA, exhaust,and a mailorder tune first. Then a moser 9" rear end (a M9 is overkill for the street) with 3.90 gears, subframe conectors, LCA's, a torque arm kit, and any other suspension parts you think you'll need. then the clutch and fuel pump, and last would come the heads, cam, 102 intake/TB, 100mm maf, and a dyno tune. There's a ton of other parts that you'll need to go along with all of these parts, push rods, lifters, lifter trays, injectors, a catch can, fuel pump hotwire kit, motor and tranny mounts, and thats just what I can come up with off the top of my head. your talking about a major build and it's gana take alot more research to get it done right, I'd start with the small stuff and enjoy the car as is for a little bit while you figure the rest out.