nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

The time has come for me to take the plunge into camming my 2001 ws6.
I've been researching this for months and am pretty confident I've finalized the direction I would like to go with this build. The car is a '01 WS6 M6. It recently hit 70k miles and as of right now is my daily driver. This will hopefully change come winter time, as I should get my Jeep back. With that said, however, this will not be an outrageous cam build. I am looking for a very streetable cam (cliche I know) with increases in the 3k-6000 rpm range. I never take the car to the track and it rarely sees shifting and/or clutch dumps above 5000-5500rpm. I drive around 80% highway, usually around ~60 miles/day...

Based on everything I've researched so far, the 228R on a 112LSA or a similar custom grind seems to be exactly what I am looking for. Although I know power under the curve is the key to a cam build (not peak #s) and dyno #s are simply a 'guide', I am looking to acheive around 380-400RWHP with this build. I do not intend on swapping heads at the moment, but might change my mind sometime down the road (a new rear will come before heads)

Here is where my head is at right now..

Build List

EXHAUST:
-TSP 1 7/8 Stainless LT
-Undecided on y pipe (catted or non)
PURCHASED -Borla XR-1 muffler to replace my current SLP Loudmouth (already installed)
PURCHASED-O2 Extensions
-Tune out rear O2s (no simulators)
-Band clamps (qty. 5-6)
PURCHASED-Multi layer steel header gaskets


CAM PACKAGE
-228r, 112LSA
-TSP 5/16" 7.40" Push Rods
-PRC .650" Dual valve springs OR or PAC 1218 OR PAC 1518 springs (WHICH ONES?!)
PURCHASED-LS2 chain (no gear set)
PURCHASED-NGK-55TR plugs
-TSP Ported LS6 Oil Pump

MISC
-Prothane motor mounts (no prothane tranny mount)
-Oil Pump o-ring (maybe 2 in case of install f*** ups)
-Unsure on required EGR/AIR caps for the headers
-Header bolts and/or misc. hardware required for installation
-PCM tune by Frost or dyno tune

All current mods are listed below in my signature.

I am not 100% set on any of the aforementioned components which is why I'm looking for any recommendations as to what I'm leaving off the list and/or suggestions for different parts. I know everyone has a different opion on what is a "streetable" cam and what works for a DD, but what I dont want to happen is install it & 6 months down the road wish I went with something a little more aggresive. I also know it all depends on what extent I want to take this build to, but will will this get me started?


Thanks,
Nick

alexus6798

iTrader: (24)

Looks like a good list to me. Only thing I ordered that I didn't see on your list was an ASP underdrive pulley and overdrive alternator pulley plus the belts and P/P throttle body..

garygnu

a EPS cam 222/226 cam will make 390 rwhp,use some pac 1518 springs and get some TSP rebuilt rockers.get a ported throttle body also.

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

Thanks.. I'll probably port the TB myslef sooner than later. are the pulleys worth the $ though? Improved damping? etc.. I assume with a proper tune, cooling wouldnt be an issue but will with a relatively 'small' cam, is the swap necessary? sorry for the questions but I've only heard of swapping out the pulleys a handful of times and have seen mixed reviews

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

Is there an advantage to the 1518s? (I know they are beehives not duals) are the doubles overkill with the amount of lift/duration I intend on running? I'm looking for something a little bigger than a 222/226 though

Thanks,
Nick

alexus6798

iTrader: (24)

Its not necessary but it will free up a few hp. I've read that some people don't trust them but I'm giving it a try. Figured might as well change them out while they are off anyway. I don't think they reduce the cooling and some pepole recommend the ATI pulley but its $400+

baxsom

iTrader: (6)

consider the comp cams trunnion upgrade. cheap and good insurance. since the pulley has to come off anyway you can pick up a few hp easy. those springs really are overkill for that cam. the comp 918s or pac 1218s with a .600 lift are the spring TSP recommended for the 228R sitting in my garage. dont forget the gasket kit. i also got a tub of the red line assembly lube to coat the cam, lifters, and rocker tips prior to startup since there is no way to prime the engine with oil like you can on the older distributor driven oil pumps.

BigBirdLS1

OP it seems like a very good list to me. Also you can't go wrong with the 228R cam it is a tried and true cam that will be fairly easy to tune. Only suggestion I have is to get a true dyno tune not a "Tune by Frost." I have nothing against Frost at all I have heard nothing but great things from him but if it were me I would not want a "mail order" tune for a cammed car.

Also for an underdrive pulley it is a good time to do one while you have your stock one off. I have a 25% powerbond and I have had zero issues with it at all. It only required a shorter belt plus it gave dampening and added a few hp.

ds98formula

iTrader: (3)

If getting a tune don't get the rear O2 Sims

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

The 1218s over the 1518s? Is the .650 lift rating of the 15s too much (similar to PRC doubles I origianlly asked about)? I remember reading somewhere a while back that the rocker arms were improved on 01 and 02 LS1s. Any insight on this or is it still a worthwhile upgrade? $140 like you said is cheap insurance, but if the rocker arms aren't as prone to failure as previous LS1s, I'd rather spend that $ on an oil pump etc..

Which gasket kit are you referring to btw?

trey1010

iTrader: (3)

I have the 228r with the pac 1518 springs. I think you've got a really good list there op

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

TSP, any input?

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

Any more help would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to place an order by the end of the week.

thx

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you have a good grasp on it. i would swing for the 1518s just because of the material. The pulley is up to you. I have heard ATI or none. I have also heard powerbond and SLP are good. I personally stayed with stock. I do agree however that a good dyno tune would be much better than a mail order tune. PM me for details on how I did mine since I'm also in charlotte. They're not a sponsor I don't believe so I can't say much more. Good luck with the build

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the input.. I'll probably end up leaving the pulleys stock for now as well, but we'll see. I'm going ot be piecing this together over the next month or so, so I have some time to change my mind if necessary.

85CamaroZ28

iTrader: (7)

I'm glad I found this thread because that's the cam I plan on getting this winter (after a PTC 3600 of course). I can't figure out why you would go with the PAC 1518 over the PRC dual's for $35 more. (On TSP anyway)

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

If they're overkill. I've done a ton of research on springs back when I needed to replace mine. There are just certain advantages and disadvantages to each. A lot of people think a dual is safer which isn't always the case. In the end the biggest thing is what the usage of the car, Intended RPM, Cam, valves etc. dictate. If I had a a lightweight valve track car I would go with the PACs with titanium retainers. In my case I went with lunati Duals since my car is my DD and is going to see a lot of highway miles. Im hoping that the dual will last a bit longer and heaven forbid it but if I do break a spring maybe the other spring will hold the valve up until I feel it float. Its just all about the application.

b16acrx1988

Great list I went with just a regular ls2 chain, and single springs..... You will love the 228r it has a nice lope, great powerband.

nichoLaS1

iTrader: (5)

Even after researching, I'm still torn on which springs to get?!

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

If it were me! I would get 1518s and shim them a bit to get closer to full pressure at max lift. But thats me. and now that I've said that Ill probably be called a fool and told why thats wrong and why you should go with duals.