moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

I did a search and basically one asked about boost controllers and a lot chimed in but mostly said I have this and like it or I can do this with it. I am needing a boost controller and would like a survey like:

Brand
Cost
Ease of Installation
Options
User Friendly.

I am planning on running 15lbs, already have a 50mm BOV & 50mm Wastegate if that matters.

stevieturbo

Rather than the totally unimportant things you've asked for...

How about stating exactly what you require of a boost controller ? Then people could make useful suggestions in return.

If all you want was 15lbs, you could simply let the wastegate control it with no external controller. Or on the budget side, use a simple bleed valve to obtain 15psi with a softer spring.

SATAN

iTrader: (2)

I'm not going to go into what brand does what, and cost xxx amount. That can easily be answered by finding a boost controller you are interested in and reading the products description.

No boost controller = your boost is set to whatever your waste gate actuator spring pressure is. Your waste gate will START TO OPEN at 50% of that pressure. This is called it's cracking pressure.

Manual boost controllers either block or divert pressure to that same actuator, essentially "fooling it" into thinking it has not reached it's full boost yet. Typically mounted in the engine bay, but can be mounted in the cab.

EBC electronic boost controllers, do the same thing as manual boost controllers, but they do it better. A manual boost controller will let some of the pressure through to the waste gate actuator before full boost is reached, EBC's don't let ANY pressure through to the actuator until full boost is reached unless you want them to. Therefore, your actuator STAYS CLOSED until you hit full boost. This makes your spool time much quicker. On top of that, you can tune how "sharp" or fast you want your boost to come up. This is the simplest form of an electronic boost controller. From there, they only get more and more elaborate as the price goes up. Things like how much boost per gear or programing themselves to your driving style. All sorts of useless bells and whistles are available.


My favorite is a simple Greddy Profec B. It does your basic EBC boost controlling. It's cheap and it works very well without having to navigate through all the bells and whistles.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Thank you SATAN for your explanation of the differences of the different types, what they do, what can be accomplished with certain types. Also as you said some have more bells and whistles than needed. This is what I was looking for, I heard about boost creep on manuals and some other models cause. Thanks again.

stevietrubo, I just don't get people like you that troll the forums just to post negative comments. I'm sure you never asked questions about anything. Forums are for constructive answers not useless criticism.
SATAN answered pretty much everything in a professional manner, you should learn from him...

cracker

iTrader: (1)

Eboost II

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

I picked up the original "eboost" on craigs for 150 bones. From what I can tell, it has most of the functionality of the eboost2. I have yet to get it in, but it seems like a really nice piece.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

thanks, I will check into the Eboost controllers..

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

RPS manual is the EXACT same as the turbonetics one, and is only 30 bucks. http://www.racepartsolutions.com/pro...d=RPS-BOOSTMAN

If I were to go EBC, i would do the AMS-500, or the Eboost2. I've had the AEM Truboost in the past, it was a nice kit as well, but not that many options.

stevieturbo

But he did not answer your question. He may have given a much better response than your question asked for though

Ask the right question and you will always get a sensible answer. Ask pointless questions, get pointless answers.

The simple answer to your question using the info you provided...which I basically gave. Is that you do not need any form of boost controller to achieve what you asked, either electronic or mechanical.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Since you use this, tell me if this is so, I heard that with a manual, the boost will start to come is then just shoot up to your desired setting, Does yours?

I actually have a similar one to this, I did not use it at the Shoot out because no controllers were allowed so I ran off the spring. I just need one to run say 10lbs on the street and go to 15lbs at the track or on a heavy night...Thanks to both..

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

Ive always found it odd too, some people are always negative, some people are know it alls, some people are both.

stevieturbo

And there was no negativity in my post. Just plain simple facts. If you have difficulty understanding those, then there isnt much point going deeper.

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

Thats not negative? You know you come off as a total jerk, dont get ticked when people call you out for it.

willizm

iTrader: (10)

I have an aem tru-boost controller. Car goes on the dyno tomorrow, but the spring pressure is set at 10psi and hoping to control 14psi. I hear the eboost controller is great and probably better than the tru-boost, however the AEM is a little cheaper as well. I think I've always heard the rule that the controller can typically increase boost twice that of the spring that is used in the wastegate. I'm sure it's situational, but if you have a 8lb spring you should be able to use the controller to achieve the 15psi you are going for. Correct me if I'm wrong.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, this is my whole point, like you say about that manual controller working great, just because one is very low on cost doesn't mean it isn't any good. Why spend $500 on a controller when something like you have works fine. I tuned a turbo car that had a manual and on the dyno it seemed fine then I did one on the street with an electronic controller. the electronic had problems but I wasnt sure was it the controller or the guy trying to figure out how to use it...

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

what are you planning on doing? is this a street car? race car? estimated power? transmission? engine? turbo?

an m6 car making 1000 at the wheels at 15psi on street tires is completly different than a backhalfed car with a glide making 650 at 15psi, and the two cars have totally different needs when it comes to controlling boost....

which is the point stevie is trying to make.

05HD

In my humble opinion, if you are doing the tuning, you should be the one trying to figure out how to use the boost controller!

I have probably figured out and tuned a hundred different kinds of boost controllers. My clear favorite is the original (long discontinued) HKS EVC EZ. Second to that is an air pressure regulator. The Greddy TVVC is an air pressure regulator marketed as a boost controller. Sometimes however, you need a boost controller to do some of the work of getting the car down the track. In those instances, I like to control boost with a standalone ecu that is also running the engine and can control boost off of vehicle speed, engine speed, gear, time or all 4.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

This is why I tried to give a little info so I could get feed back like yours but instead got an answer that those were worthless questions, anyway back to you. its a street car seeing the track usually only at the LTx shootout. its an M6, single front mount turbo, LT4/ 383. at present made 643 RWHP / 649 TQ with 11 lbs but this was a thrash tune for the race, prior with the supercharger made 722 RWHP, I plan to be in that range or better @ 14-15lbs.Just need a controller thats not overkill and one that does not cause creep or spikes, Thanks





[QUOTE=05HD;15546449]In my humble opinion, if you are doing the tuning, you should be the one trying to figure out how to use the boost controller!

Again you are not reading the entire post, I am not trying to figure out how to use a boost controller but which and what kind of results everyone else has had. I don't want to spend $500 when a $250 controller will be suffice.
People ask questions about cams, heads, pistons. this is no different. Others ask how to do something, bleed a clutch, replace a window motor, do others chime in and say, go figure this out yourself?

05HD

I read the entire post. Apparently you didn't. If you had tuned that EBC you commented about, you would know if it was the operator or the controller. I went on to recommend my personal favorites that do the best job for the buck, just like you asked for. Go back and re-read.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for your input, obviously I am not going to start a flaming thread as you would like, I will just take all of the positive comments that the others have posted, Thanks to you all that gave constructive advise...I'm pretty sure of what I am going with..