cdavis50

..I hate to post this since it has been discussed time after time. But I couldn't really find a direct answer. I have a 98 camaro ss with 143xxx miles. Since I have owned it I have put gtx high mileage 10w-30 in it with a quart of lucas oil stablizer. It's about time for me to change the oil and I may go with synthetic but not sure if that would be a good move. I'm wanting her to hit atleast a good 200000 miles, Ive used thicker oil because of I guess the ls1 tick which I hope thats all it is....so any suggestions.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

I would switch to good synthetic with no additional additives or stabilizers.

lusting4ls1

iTrader: (15)

^^^ what he said. Cant ever go wrong with synthetic. I switched my jeep over at 202,000 miles. Forget that gooey lucas too. Ls1's just tick, no big deal.

slowside

I feel like lucas oil is a great thing to have in your engine. Its old and warn the clearances have grown and the tolerances are not as tight. I used lucas with every oil change and my oil pressure is perfect and the car runs I wanna say more quiet
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crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Almost as much as some of us hate to read it time after time.

3Camaros

My advice, Mobil 1 0-30 or 5-30. If it uses oil then the high mileage Mobil 1. If you want it to hit 200,000 stay away from redline and the track.

cdavis50

I've heard pros and cons about the lucas.. sounds like it depends on who you talk to. I've used it with and with out in my car, it does seem to quite it down. Now whats the chance on gaskets leaking? I've read that some people have problems with that. I switched to synthetic in a mustang I once had and I started leaking at a seal, but could've been just worn out also.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Yep, Lucas or Amsoil are great oils. Forget any additive, it'll just spoil the oil maker's carefully made formula. There used to be a video somewhere showing the Lucas additive creates foamy oil-which you most definitely do not want.

You certainly can't go wrong with German Castrol!

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

And no fram filters!!!

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

Wow so many myths in here its not even funny. Yes you can and absolutely should switch to synthetic. I just bought my 98 with 121000 miles and the first thing I did was put in 10W 30 Mobil 1 High Mileage. You can switch back and forth between types with no ill effect. The Mobil actually made the piston slap quieter than the conventional it had in there. As far as the seals leaking that means your oil is doing its job rather than sludging up and leaving crap behind. The synthetic cleans out the gunk from your seals, which may cause them to leak. These arent SBCs where tolerances open up so wide you have to use thick oil. And besides M1 is so cheap, after a rebate its around 25 bucks for 6 qts and 13 for a M1 filter

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

You would save yourself some time if just put this statement in your sig.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

^like!

Nowhereman

Do yourself a favor, try Royal Purple 0-40 weight just once.
You most likely will get rid of the ticking, have more power and clean that ole girl up even better.

O2Form

Royle Purple is a marketing company....geez

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i would use a trusdt brand of your choice. for the most part, oil is oil and as long as it is changed at the proper interval, it won't make much of a difference. i've had three 4th gen cars, all of which i took different approaches to with regard to oil changes and general maintenance. my experience leads me to believe that synthetic oil is not necessary and will not protect a daily driver any better than dino oil. i managed to get over 200k out of various vehicles using regular oil, none of which had any problems during ownership or after i sold them. i didn't roadrace them, but every one of them did get a few trips to the dragstrip and frequent wot.

these engines are no different, and if anything, more durable. i use synthetic oil in my ta because i run the ever living **** out of it. if i drove it even remotely "normal" i would not use said oil.

Nowhereman

Some of you are sooo F'd up with the RP thing.
I run it, I ran it against other "top oils" and it performs better than the other ones I have used including AMSOIL, which is a financial rip off to say the least.
You can take your ******* micrometers an shove em up your you know what.
My WS6 has never been quieter , run smoother and hold pressure under any heat condition better than RP oil.
Get real...

O2Form

Heres a little example of your RP in action. http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-g...you-think.html

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I've also heard much more bad stuff about Royal Purple motor oils than good, specifically, higher oil consumption, foaming under normal use and increased wear. Not to mention it's relatively high cost. A good oil should not need much marketing and advertising to be used.

Strange though how Royal Purple's ATF is one of the least foaming on the market.

Mobil One is not what it used to be but I'd still rather it over the Royal Purple.

You can't go wrong reaching for a Lucas, Valvoline, Pennzoil or Amsoil full synthetic.

As far as Castrol is concerned, I wouldn't use any of their lubes other than the genuine made in Germany 0W-30. It did wonders for my almost 200 thousand mile LS1. The cold start-up piston slap almost disappeared. This is the ONLY oil I use.

I don't care what anybody might say about when to do an oil change, when it starts turning dark on the dipstick and on your fingers, get it outta there.

O2Form

I only use Pennzoil and have had no problems.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Sure...switch to synthetic oil....if you want to completely throw money in the garbage and have ZERO added protection over non-synthetic.

In another 5-10 years people will start to realize this. I'm just blown away how many people still fall for this marketing scam.

Personally, I have 164,000 miles on my FULLY BUILT stroker engine, and its running like a charm still. 20w50 cheap Castrol GTX non-synth.

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