ChevyAllTheWay

iTrader: (3)

So going 145 blew up my transmission and took part of the block with it, currently I have my rotating assembly getting balance hope to see it this friday.
My mods:
LS6 Block
ARP head studs
ARP2000 Rod bolts
Mahle -5cc forged pistons
New cam, main, and rod bearings
Fully polished and balanced rotating assembly

Of course I have other things such as a built T56, 9" rear end, and chassis upgrades in the future that this isn't relevant for this discussion. My questions is what do you guys think my boost level can get to? Compression calculator shows about a 9.55:1 SCR. I have heard of cranks lasting to 1000RWHP, Rods holding 700RWHP with upgraded bolts, and forged pistons vary. I was hoping about 8lbs of daily boost and 15lbs with some race gas and a water/meth kit. Shooting close to 600RWHP. What's your guys opinion on this? Am I way off to think that I can push 15lbs? Who thinks it will hold a lot more? Any and all info is always appreciated, thanks for the future replies.

...Yes stock heads, fast intake, 72lb injectors, Racetronix 255lph fuel pump, HP tune by me on a 2bar tune, it is a butt mounted turbo, comp 918 springs, titanium retainers, soon to be chromoly pushrods, and fuel press/boost/wideband gauges.

For the HP tuner nerds I was going to run a conservative tune with timing in the single digits and running about a 11.5:1 AFR. Of course that will be pushed up as far as she will let me with closer to about 10 degrees of timing and closer to 12:1 AFR if she will do it without a problem on 93 octane only.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

there is no need to run single digit timing, theres no reason why on 8 lbs and 9.5 you cant run 17 or so degree. My roomates car that i tuned, has essentially the same setup as you, but on 93 octane and 14lbs its running at about 13* of timing, 17* with methanol/93, afr's are around 11.6-11.7.

ChevyAllTheWay

iTrader: (3)

Thanks WheelsUp84z, I have yet to tune a turbocharged vehicle and I said I was being conservative but it helps to know what works for other people to give me a better idea what I might be able to start running, not really sure if more timing and lower AFR works better or worse versus lower timing and higher AFR.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

If you're interested i can email you the HPT files, so you can see how i have it setup.


PS I graduated from Cabot HS, class of 2004

ChevyAllTheWay

iTrader: (3)

That would be cool to look at, I'll send you my email now.

stevieturbo

For safety, and if money is tight. Sell the fast intake and buy a set of conrods instead. And maybe a set of ARP main studs.

Then the bottom end will be strong enough for substantial power levels.

Stock LS6 intake is more than adequate. There are guys running 8's with the stock LS6 intake and TB

ChevyAllTheWay

iTrader: (3)

Conrods? I have had like 2 other people say the same thing about the fast intake. I already have arp studs for the new block. Im going to keep the intake for a little bit and Welch to an ls6 intake later. The motor will be na for probably a month until a good payday comes in.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

conrods= connecting rods

ChevyAllTheWay

iTrader: (3)

Oh its a little late to buy new rods as I am already having the rotating assembly balanced with stock crank and rods. Have arp rod bolts, new rings, new forged pistons, new wrist pins. I have been told the rods are good to about 700, is this not the case? Anybody else have some input to this before I go to 15 lbs?

stevieturbo

The factory rods should be fine. But that is only "should" be fine.

Is it worth the risk for a few hundred dollars, when buying a decent set of rods will be fine ?

I just dont think so. And new rods will be pretty much future proof. Build your bottom end once only.

TA6spdRDC

iTrader: (2)

WHAT! im class of 04!

ChevyAllTheWay

iTrader: (3)

Lol 2 months later.

TA6spdRDC

iTrader: (2)

Just curious, Who is doing all your machine work? Also you really may wanna look into forged rods.