Pilot Bearing Will NOT Come Out!
10-29-2011, 11:14 AM
#1
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Pilot Bearing Will NOT Come Out! 
So.. we have a slide hammer, we have soaked it in PBlaster, it will NOT come out.
what are some other ideas.. no bread and grease wont work on this.. it refuses to come out with manforce.. I guess I'll have to drill it out?
any old tricks would be helpful.
10-29-2011, 01:18 PM
#4
two things.
1. https://ls1tech.com/forums/14808231-post6.html
2. got a can of R134A that's already tapped? Spray the bearing race to freeze it. Then use the slide hammer.
1. https://ls1tech.com/forums/14808231-post6.html
2. got a can of R134A that's already tapped? Spray the bearing race to freeze it. Then use the slide hammer.
10-29-2011, 01:22 PM
#5
If you decide to use a cutting to, BE VERY CAREFUL. If you mess up that inside diameter you're going to have some serious problems on your hand.
BTW, how heavy is the slide hammer. I remember having to do one a year ago and it was a PITA. I used a medium size slide hammer with an adj hook tip that expands two hooks as you screw the slide hammer rod more in.
You're going to really have to beat it with that slide hammer.
BTW, how heavy is the slide hammer. I remember having to do one a year ago and it was a PITA. I used a medium size slide hammer with an adj hook tip that expands two hooks as you screw the slide hammer rod more in.
You're going to really have to beat it with that slide hammer.
10-29-2011, 02:04 PM
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had problems taking my out, instead of using the hooks that came with the slide hammer, I used a bolt that the head of it (part that the socket goes on) just barely fit inside the pilot bearing, and I used that to pull it out, I think the bolt grabs better and doesn't bend. I think the pilot bearing on an ls1 is about the hardest one I'd ever had to pull out.
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10-29-2011, 11:45 PM
#9
When you grind away at it, just try not to go too deep beyond the races, try to section it. With the reinforcing sections grinded down, it puts less force on the crank surface and will allow the slide hammer to work. Recall how deep the pilot bearing is in there though because if you only cut/grind the part you see, the inner part is still clamping
10-30-2011, 11:30 AM
#10
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If you're using the small 2-jaw puller attachment, you'll have to grind down the legs of the puller to allow it to get a better grip behind the bearing. I've never had a puller attachment work right out of the box. Just don't grind it too thin or it will break.
Otherwise, your only other option is to use a carbide burr and an air grinder. It will take 15 minutes or so, but you can grind it really thin in one spot, from front to back. Be careful not to grind all the way thru, just make it paper-thin. At this point, try the puller again, and it will crack the bearing in the thin spot, losing it's press fit. Then it will come right out.
Otherwise, your only other option is to use a carbide burr and an air grinder. It will take 15 minutes or so, but you can grind it really thin in one spot, from front to back. Be careful not to grind all the way thru, just make it paper-thin. At this point, try the puller again, and it will crack the bearing in the thin spot, losing it's press fit. Then it will come right out.
10-30-2011, 12:31 PM
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If you're using the small 2-jaw puller attachment, you'll have to grind down the legs of the puller to allow it to get a better grip behind the bearing. I've never had a puller attachment work right out of the box. Just don't grind it too thin or it will break.
Otherwise, your only other option is to use a carbide burr and an air grinder. It will take 15 minutes or so, but you can grind it really thin in one spot, from front to back. Be careful not to grind all the way thru, just make it paper-thin. At this point, try the puller again, and it will crack the bearing in the thin spot, losing it's press fit. Then it will come right out.
Otherwise, your only other option is to use a carbide burr and an air grinder. It will take 15 minutes or so, but you can grind it really thin in one spot, from front to back. Be careful not to grind all the way thru, just make it paper-thin. At this point, try the puller again, and it will crack the bearing in the thin spot, losing it's press fit. Then it will come right out.
11-10-2011, 03:16 PM
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Cutting it out has always worked for me when all else fails. I cut it at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock then hit it with a chisel to fold itself inward and it will literally just fall out from there.
11-10-2011, 11:16 PM
#19
I used a bolt that just barely fit in the hole***, slid a philips head bit in next to the bolt so it wouldn't slip sideways, threaded on a nut with a big washer, and pried mine out with a crow bar.
Another thing I saw someone suggest in another thread was to freeze the pilot bearing with a direct hit of Nitrous (which would presumable cause the bearing to shrink ever-so-slightly, and be easier to pull).
*** The bolt was a 10MM junker head bolt that I milled down on my drill press with a file.
Another thing I saw someone suggest in another thread was to freeze the pilot bearing with a direct hit of Nitrous (which would presumable cause the bearing to shrink ever-so-slightly, and be easier to pull).
*** The bolt was a 10MM junker head bolt that I milled down on my drill press with a file.
11-16-2011, 09:22 AM
#20
I have that tool for pulling bushings in automatic transmissions. Only problem with using it on a stuck bearing like this, is there is no "shock" like you get with a slide hammer. But otherwise, it is a GREAT puller for this type of work.
