SIKHS 5

will i need to also bolt down the torque converter to the tranmission?

what bolts will i need to get my transmission(stock 4L80e) onto my LQ4, could i get some grade 8 bolts from a hardware store?

thank you!

scatillac

iTrader: (12)

M10-1.5 X 30mm Grade 10.9 flange head bolts should be available at your friendly local True Value. They'll be about ~$2.30 each. You'll need 6.

In lieu of these, your GM dealer can fix you up.

You could probably use standard hex head bolts, but the OEM bolts are flange heads so they won't score the aluminum.

SIKHS 5

no one on here has ever installed a tq converter or tans?

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

Torque converters don't get bolted to the transmission, they get seated on the shaft...make sure its seated properly by spinning it while gently pushing it toward the back of the trans. You may need to spin it multiple revolutions before it is fully seated. I think you want to look for 3 clunks when installing it from off the trans.

The torque converter does, however, get bolted to the flywheel. To do this you should be able to pick up torque converter bolts at an auto parts store. I got mine at AZ I think on the rack with the packs of bolts. They come 4 in a pack, you need 6. From what I remember they are not labeled as torque converter bolts but they are really short and have a dab of thread locker on them already.

6.0Nova?

I agree. But, you gotta watch those parts store torque convertor bolts. Jackasses at Blottozone INSISTED they were all the same...turns out that old GM stuff uses standard bolts where the newer stuff is metric. I ended up ordering the right ones from NAPA at $2/ea. GM stealership wanted $6/bolt, paid for up front, in cash, 25 miles away.

SIKHS 5

thanks everyone!!!! i got the trans on mounted on, now i just need to get the converter onto the flywheel. does anyone have any idea on the dimensions of the bolts (size/pitch/length/how many)

so the bellhousing is bolted to the block/torqued down and converter still moves.

should i just get one of the bolts through the flywheel and tighten it to the converter with a ratcheting combination wrench. then do i turn over my engine from the crank pulley, added/tighten a new bolt and repeat?

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

That's the way I did it. Not sure if its the right way though. Can't help you on bolt info, I say go to the store and pick up the metric ones. 6.0Nova made a good point about the SAE/metric problem. I reused mine off my 200R4 but that was a metric chassis and brought 1 with me to match thread and all that stuff so I guess I got lucky. Also you will need someone to hold to the crank while tightening the bolts because its pretty easy to rotate the engine while doing this procedure.

SIKHS 5

sounds pretty straightforward, hopefully i can slap in the engine by wednesday - if i can get these bolts figured out

does anyone else have an idea of the bolt specs?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Length on the Convertor Bolts is about 1/2".

SIKHS 5

does M10x1.5x15mm sound about right? hopefully i can pick up some at truevalue.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yea..that's close to 5/8"..

flywheel

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking my bolts were an 11mm.... I got mine from a friend who took them off his ls3 flex plate, I couldn't find any at a hardware store....
Rick

FatfreeGTO

This is what you want

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-230-7305/

Its basically a m10 1.5 x 16mm but you won't find a 10.9 grade at your hardware store just get these ones from ARP.

Edit: I should say I couldn't find them at my local True Value when I was looking for these bolts...

SIKHS 5

thanks!!! ill order them tonight (i wont need the nuts right?)

FatfreeGTO

You're welcome! I'm drawing a blank I don't know why that picture shows nuts... There aren't any... weird.