FgReed

iTrader: (2)

Hi Guys,
Been a member here for a few months and gotta say, I love this site. So much information!

When i bought my 1999 WS6 the guy i bought it from had already done a few things too it. I would like to improve on that.
Items already done were 2" lowering eibach springs, eibach adjustable pan hard bar
other than that, suspension is stock.
My question is, if i were going to spend some time improving this suspension what should my next improvement be? FYI I will only be driving this on the street.
Shocks?
Sway bars?
LCA Relocators?
etc.
Just not sure what my next step should be.

Thanks in advance

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

What kind of driving are you doing with the car, mostly straight line or handling? If you are mainly looking to make the car handle curves and corners better a good set of shocks and sway bars would be my next move assuming you have a decent bit of mileage on the car. If the rear end is off to one side of the car further than the other then I would look into getting an adjustable panhard rod. If you are looking at doing more straight line stuff I would do a good set of shocks, lower controle arm relocation brackets, and lower control arms. It just really depends on what you want out of the car.

FgReed

iTrader: (2)

Sorry,
Should have stated that.
I am going for handling. Nice weekend drives, hugging curves, etc.
Already have the adjustable panhard rod installed.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey Fg. If the shocks are good (no wallowing, bouncing, etc.) I'd install subframe connectors, or SFC's as we tend to call them. A good set of SFC's will help the entire car work better as-is and will also support any additional modifications.

Are you happy with the "flatness" of the car during cornering? If you think it rolls too much then a bar size increase would be next. Keep in mind, a car can be balanced even if it's rolling over. If the roll angle is suitable to you then you should work on balance at the limit (assuming you want to corner carve). We test our cars on a 200 ft diameter skidpad. We circulate faster and faster until the car slides out. If it slides all four tires, it's balanced. If the front slides first, i.e. pushes, it needs more rear bar. If the rear steps out in oversteer, or "loose", it needs more front bar and so on. Chassis development can be skewed by throttle-on oversteer so it's best to find a long sweeping corner for balance testing so the car can truly rest on the springs and bars.

Sway bar (or anti-roll bar) size increases tend to keep your cars daily driving manners pretty comfy.

LCA relocation brackets are most useful for drag racing/forward bite applications. They can also help a seriously lowered car. Many customers with a one inch drop don't use them and get along fine. Two inches is getting close though. If you're mainly street driving, the relocation brackets are close to last on the list. If your car shows any evil tendencies give us a call to decide on the LCARB's.

Good luck on your project.

ramey

FgReed

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the response.
I'm not incredibly happy with the cruising. I feel the front of the car kind of floats around a bit which i don't like. I'm assuming shocks would cure this?
I do also notice body roll when taking tight corners. You feel aftermarket sway bars would help in this? If so, is there a difference in performance between hollow and solid type?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hey Fg.

Floating up and down could be shocks or loose steering components in-general. Provided the steering is mechanically sound, it could be the shocks.

There CAN BE a difference in performance between solid and hollow but not just because of the hole. Basically a hollow bar can be larger in diameter to get the rate up but lighter because it's hollow. There's a phenomenon with torsion type bars (like a sway bar) which makes the diameter contribute more to the torsional stiffness than the metal in the middle - if that makes sense. Where you run into trouble is you run out of room eventually. A two or three inch diameter bar could be super light but wouldn't physically fit in there.

Our sway bar kit 211213 (http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=292) would flatten your car nicely and still retain the cruising comfort spring-rate wise.

As for which shock to choose, there's a ton of them out there including the lines we sell. The best thing to do is call and talk to us about your exact application and expectations.

ramey

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Give us a call here at the shop, 813-986-9302. Maybe we can figure out a custom package with either Bilstein HDs, Tocikos, or Konis for you car with some sway bars and maybe springs and save you a couple bucks.

FgReed

iTrader: (2)

I think steering is ok. I am sort of thinking the floating sensation i get is likely the shocks. I guess at the end of the day i'm just looking to feel the road more. For just weekend fun, which is what i use the car for what would you recommend for shocks that will compliment the eibach springs?
Should have mentioned before the car has approx. 50k on it.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

We sell QA1's and feel they are a great value. They make a nice non-adjustable that's a good combination of performance and value. If youre never doing a track day or drag strip day, you'll be happy with them.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

There really isn't a shock out there that's going to "compliment" the Eibach Sportline springs for drag racing. Any of the QA1 shock setups is going to be more drag oriented which will result in pretty poor streetability. Sure, they are adjustable, but the only way to truly dial them in for comfortable street/strip is to get the double adjustables, which are around $400 more for a set. We offer the Bilstein HD shocks if you're on a budget, or the Konis, which is what I would recommend to you because unless you're going to the track on a regular basis and "hunting the number", the QA1 shocks may be a little too much to deal with on the street. Trust me, I ran them for 6 years on my SS. They were decent on the street to me, but everyone who got in said the car felt like crap. Looking back, the car did ride like crap...it was a purpose built drag racing shock. haha

If you're spending most of your time on the street, this will be your best option. The Bilsteins and Konis will make the car feel better everyday, work well with your springs, and assist with handling. The Konis are also adjustable so you could always makes some tweaks to them at the track - the rears are off car adjustable, but are easy to remove.

Let me know if there's anything I can help you with.

redracer1

iTrader: (2)

Take it from a guy that flat out drives the **** outa his car in the corners.

Strano Springs & Hollow Sways, Koni SA, Panhard Bar

Then Tires...you can fine tune your suspension with LCA's, FRC's, STB's to make it just that much better later.

FgReed

iTrader: (2)

No draging will be done with this car. This is my weekend nice weather driver. I think i will get some shocks and upgrade my swaybars. Based on the suggestions.
As far as shocks go, i just want something i can install and not have to adjust all the time. I want this for fun driving. Lots of curves, straightaways, etc. But i want to feel the road.
How do Bilsteins compare to KONI?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Koni's are great for those looking for the best control and the ability to tune and dial the car in to their liking and to work just right with other parts. Think of Bilstein's as non-adjustable Koni's, as they are pretty similar to Koni's set full soft. That said, I can't think of anyone who given the choice of setting their Koni's to wherever they please, chooses to run them full soft.

Bilstein and Koni are the two best shocks that you are going to get easily in off the shelf form, period. Which you want depends on how well you want to build the car. I can tell you that all my personal cars have Koni's, even my winter beater BMW 325is with 225k miles... all the way to my Z06.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Sam always has useful tidbits in his posts -- always nice to see his contributions to the community... Thanks.