Lizard King

I'm gonna redo the suspension on my '95 Z28 over the winter. The list is always getting longer, I shouldn't have ventured in here.

The car is a daily driver during the summer and kept in storage over the winter. 60k miles on the clock, not bad for a 16 year old car I guess, but I don't think the suspension has ever been touched! The car just feels old and worn.

I've already got lots of boxes sitting in the basement, but I've come to the conclusion that I want to replace as much as possible, well just because.

Stuff already bought:
Koni 4/4 shocks
Strano 1.2" springs
UMI on car adj. panhard bar
UMI non-adj. LCA's
UMI LCA relocation brackets
UMI 35mm and 22mm sway bars

To-buy-soon list:
UMI non-adj. upper A-arms w/ball joints
BMR 1" lowering A-arms
UMI torque arm
Timken Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly
Poly bump stops? Might as well...
All the "small parts"

Now all the smaller suspension parts up front are confusing the hell out of me. Is there anything I have to reuse? I have a feeling that rust will be an issue here. Is OEM stuff the way to go?

English is my second language and I simply don't know what these parts are called and no one carries that stuff over here.

So if anyone wants to point me in the right direction here and tell me what I need, that would be much appreciated! Thanks.

augie1209

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't opened the boxes already, I'de return the adj phr, adj lcas, and lca relo brackets, and put that money towards a watt's link. At least the phr, which the watt's replaces. Watt's link is 650 so pretty pricey, but well worth the upgrade. Ask UMI or Strano about it and see what they have to say.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Since you're already heavily UMI'd, which we appreciate, the only thing I see missing from your list is subframe connectors.

As for small parts, and rust, get a can of WD-40 or equivalent and start spraying and tapping long before you start disassembling. That makes it easier.

For the language barrier and small parts, send me pics of stuff you think is questionable and I can help you name it and or locate it.

Good luck.

ramey

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I would return the non-adjustable LCA and use only adjustable LCA
Johnny

sssalah

Most of these aftermarket parts will take the smoothness out of it, it will be stiff and harsh. since it's a daily driver, it needs freshening with factory replacement or equivalent, Moog is good. Replace inner and outer tie rods, lower and upper ball joints, a-arm and rear control arms bushings, torque arm bushing, sway bars bushings and isolators. A good aftermarket part is subframe connectors, and your choice of shocks.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I don't know if I know exactly what you're asking here. If you're asking about where you should find the bolts if they need to be replaced, then yes, I would say the dealer is your best option. Unfortunately, the bolts are hard to come by here in the states, so I can't even imagine the nightmare in Europe or further East.

When it comes to removing the old, rusty bolts, I would highly recommend using PB Blaster or some sort of penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench makes a terrific penetrating oil too.