Crazy signals 454 LSX HP Tuners
11-01-2011, 04:10 PM
#1
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Crazy signals 454 LSX HP Tuners Hey guys,
I really havent spent much time tuning period, but specifically this car. (been running into problem after problem, mostly clutch)
Anyway, my BIG issue is this insane feedback the computer is getting. To explain, Ill cruising along for a half mile and all of a sudden the car will freak out(misfire, hesitation, stall) this is seen on the logs, ummm.. inexplicable
I pull to the side of the road, feather the throttle to keep it running, and then the tune will magically clear up, and I can drive with zero issues(tune is damn near perfect)... for ~1000ft...
I attached three logs showcasing the issue.... It looks insane.... seems really bad.
Does anybody have ANY ideas? I dont have the money to give this to a shop and let them diagnose the issue, but Id really like to feel the power again before the snow falls.
Anybody seen this before?
I really havent spent much time tuning period, but specifically this car. (been running into problem after problem, mostly clutch)
Anyway, my BIG issue is this insane feedback the computer is getting. To explain, Ill cruising along for a half mile and all of a sudden the car will freak out(misfire, hesitation, stall) this is seen on the logs, ummm.. inexplicable
I pull to the side of the road, feather the throttle to keep it running, and then the tune will magically clear up, and I can drive with zero issues(tune is damn near perfect)... for ~1000ft...
I attached three logs showcasing the issue.... It looks insane.... seems really bad.
Does anybody have ANY ideas? I dont have the money to give this to a shop and let them diagnose the issue, but Id really like to feel the power again before the snow falls.
Anybody seen this before?
11-01-2011, 04:28 PM
#2
Loose or poor connection on a ground wire somewhere. Check all your connections to the PCM as well. This type of thing creeps up when you mess with the stock harness, and it can be nearly impossible to track down.
Next best bet would be to swap out the PCM for a different one to make sure that isn't the problem.
Next best bet would be to swap out the PCM for a different one to make sure that isn't the problem.
11-01-2011, 04:49 PM
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Thanks for your response.
That was my plan, Im gonna check continuity in the whole harness, check grounds, and Im ordering a new ECM tonight.
Thanks, btw, hows your car? hows texas?
That was my plan, Im gonna check continuity in the whole harness, check grounds, and Im ordering a new ECM tonight.
Thanks, btw, hows your car? hows texas?
11-01-2011, 08:21 PM
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Just a few observations that are probably not related to the electrical issue. I second checking the grounds.
1. Whats up with the commanded AFR? Are you running E85 or??
2. Need to get those IAC counts down (
Not currently that important though obviously)
3. ECT are borderline alarming at the end of log 3?
1. Whats up with the commanded AFR? Are you running E85 or??
2. Need to get those IAC counts down (
Not currently that important though obviously)3. ECT are borderline alarming at the end of log 3?
11-01-2011, 08:47 PM
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Just a few observations that are probably not related to the electrical issue. I second checking the grounds.
1. Whats up with the commanded AFR? Are you running E85 or??
2. Need to get those IAC counts down ( Not currently that important though obviously)
3. ECT are borderline alarming at the end of log 3?
1. Whats up with the commanded AFR? Are you running E85 or??
2. Need to get those IAC counts down (
Not currently that important though obviously)3. ECT are borderline alarming at the end of log 3?
as far as the tune, I had a shop "take a stab at it" and wasnt very happy with the outcome. so I will be doing all the tuning from here on out.
Yes, im running e85, past that, im pretty noobish, and im not sure how he was tuning, but my fuel pressure was down at ~45psi
the tune will need to be updated anyway, as far as idle tuning, as I switched to a 102mm TB and a corvette style air bridge, which moved the MAF to a much better location. allowing it(when its running well) to idle around 500RPM which is awesome considering the cam thats in it. (AKA ive done idle tuning since these logs)
As far as ECT, i was too distracted with the electrical gremlin, I didnt notice that I threw a belt and was overheating... I have since gone to a solid tensioner and have yet to throw a belt.
Thanks again for the help. These are the best answers I have for you right now. I need to figure out this crazy electrical issue, so I can get out and tune, as that is going to be a learning process, as of right now im pretty clueless.
11-02-2011, 10:24 PM
#7
I few pieces of advice:
Idle tuning can be a bear with a larger motor like this. I would recommend at a minimum running 800-900 rpms. 500rpm is WAY too low, and more than likely the car will want to stall when coming to a stop, or turning the wheel. Keep it at 800-900.
If your IAC counts are way high, you're probably commanding too much air at idle, this can also affect your idle stability. I have found that giving too much air, and throwing more fuel ontop (to even out the AFR) makes the motor want to stall with any loads and coming down to idle from higher rpms.
Did you start from a baseline tune? Or are you starting from stock?
If you're starting from a stock tune, you will have a ton of work ahead of you haha... Too bad you're not using EFILive, I would be able to take your logs and your tune file and get you a pretty good start...oh well. haha.
Idle tuning can be a bear with a larger motor like this. I would recommend at a minimum running 800-900 rpms. 500rpm is WAY too low, and more than likely the car will want to stall when coming to a stop, or turning the wheel. Keep it at 800-900.
If your IAC counts are way high, you're probably commanding too much air at idle, this can also affect your idle stability. I have found that giving too much air, and throwing more fuel ontop (to even out the AFR) makes the motor want to stall with any loads and coming down to idle from higher rpms.
Did you start from a baseline tune? Or are you starting from stock?
If you're starting from a stock tune, you will have a ton of work ahead of you haha... Too bad you're not using EFILive, I would be able to take your logs and your tune file and get you a pretty good start...oh well. haha.
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11-03-2011, 06:35 AM
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I few pieces of advice:
Idle tuning can be a bear with a larger motor like this. I would recommend at a minimum running 800-900 rpms. 500rpm is WAY too low, and more than likely the car will want to stall when coming to a stop, or turning the wheel. Keep it at 800-900.
If your IAC counts are way high, you're probably commanding too much air at idle, this can also affect your idle stability. I have found that giving too much air, and throwing more fuel ontop (to even out the AFR) makes the motor want to stall with any loads and coming down to idle from higher rpms.
Did you start from a baseline tune? Or are you starting from stock?
If you're starting from a stock tune, you will have a ton of work ahead of you haha... Too bad you're not using EFILive, I would be able to take your logs and your tune file and get you a pretty good start...oh well. haha.
Idle tuning can be a bear with a larger motor like this. I would recommend at a minimum running 800-900 rpms. 500rpm is WAY too low, and more than likely the car will want to stall when coming to a stop, or turning the wheel. Keep it at 800-900.
If your IAC counts are way high, you're probably commanding too much air at idle, this can also affect your idle stability. I have found that giving too much air, and throwing more fuel ontop (to even out the AFR) makes the motor want to stall with any loads and coming down to idle from higher rpms.
Did you start from a baseline tune? Or are you starting from stock?
If you're starting from a stock tune, you will have a ton of work ahead of you haha... Too bad you're not using EFILive, I would be able to take your logs and your tune file and get you a pretty good start...oh well. haha.
Yea, I didnt plan on running it at 500, but it does idle quite smoothly down there, which I think reflects a clean MAF signal.
I still havent learned much about IAC, but I think I am going to have to drill the TB Blade maybe.
Ive already had it dyno tuned, I just wasnt happy with their, attitude/work. So I picked it up, I dont deal with D-bags. So I will be working on the tune myself....
After I figure out my clutch issues. Which I hope I can do, because this clutch is perfect for me.
11-03-2011, 09:03 AM
#9
You may need to drill the throttleblade, but you may also be able to adjust the throttleplate (just make sure that you readjust your TPS).
Where did you have the tune done?
If you're trying to tune the fuel map, you should be running in open-loop mode (NO Maf or O2 sensor adjustments). Otherwise you'll never get your fueling adjustments/fuel map properly adjusted because the O2's will be adjusting fueling while you're adjusting your fuel table. There are tutorials on the forum on how to tune, properly setting up the PCM to run in open loop (speed density) mode so that you can get your tune done correctly. Then, you can put it back to closed-loop and run the MAF/O2's after your final tune is done. This is a crucial/critical first step.
If you're having problems with your clutch, and the problem is the clutch itself, I would suggest dumping it, and getting a textralia/other type clutch so you can move on from that pain. What adjustable MC do you have?
Where did you have the tune done?
If you're trying to tune the fuel map, you should be running in open-loop mode (NO Maf or O2 sensor adjustments). Otherwise you'll never get your fueling adjustments/fuel map properly adjusted because the O2's will be adjusting fueling while you're adjusting your fuel table. There are tutorials on the forum on how to tune, properly setting up the PCM to run in open loop (speed density) mode so that you can get your tune done correctly. Then, you can put it back to closed-loop and run the MAF/O2's after your final tune is done. This is a crucial/critical first step.
If you're having problems with your clutch, and the problem is the clutch itself, I would suggest dumping it, and getting a textralia/other type clutch so you can move on from that pain. What adjustable MC do you have?
11-03-2011, 11:24 AM
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You may need to drill the throttleblade, but you may also be able to adjust the throttleplate (just make sure that you readjust your TPS).
Where did you have the tune done?
If you're trying to tune the fuel map, you should be running in open-loop mode (NO Maf or O2 sensor adjustments). Otherwise you'll never get your fueling adjustments/fuel map properly adjusted because the O2's will be adjusting fueling while you're adjusting your fuel table. There are tutorials on the forum on how to tune, properly setting up the PCM to run in open loop (speed density) mode so that you can get your tune done correctly. Then, you can put it back to closed-loop and run the MAF/O2's after your final tune is done. This is a crucial/critical first step.
If you're having problems with your clutch, and the problem is the clutch itself, I would suggest dumping it, and getting a textralia/other type clutch so you can move on from that pain. What adjustable MC do you have?
Where did you have the tune done?
If you're trying to tune the fuel map, you should be running in open-loop mode (NO Maf or O2 sensor adjustments). Otherwise you'll never get your fueling adjustments/fuel map properly adjusted because the O2's will be adjusting fueling while you're adjusting your fuel table. There are tutorials on the forum on how to tune, properly setting up the PCM to run in open loop (speed density) mode so that you can get your tune done correctly. Then, you can put it back to closed-loop and run the MAF/O2's after your final tune is done. This is a crucial/critical first step.
If you're having problems with your clutch, and the problem is the clutch itself, I would suggest dumping it, and getting a textralia/other type clutch so you can move on from that pain. What adjustable MC do you have?
Yea, Ive been playing with the throttle blade, and I cant get it to idle without drilling, (while having IAC counts down)
A well know shop that doesnt exactly do business as I would like.
I think its in open loop, but I thought it still used the MAF..., I dont think it would run when I forgot to plug in the MAF one time. I need to go through the tutorials again, and get all this figured out.
As far as the clutch its a textralia twin disc, and Id like to see if I can save it before I spend $2k on a new clutch. and I really like this clutch, I got iron discs for it, and engagement is very smooth, light pedal pressure, and it holds more power than I have.
