NV4500 Shifter Tower
#1
NV4500 Shifter Tower
The GM NV4500 shifter stub (in the shift tower) angles toward the driver at a fairly significant amount. in my antique narrow cab it puts the shift lever too far over to the left - hitting my leg in first and second gear. Is there a way to modify the shift tower to make the stub come out "straight" - or an aftermarket kit that will accomplish the same?
On a related thought, can the Dodge shift tower exchange, and is the shifter stub "straight"
On a related thought, can the Dodge shift tower exchange, and is the shifter stub "straight"
#2
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There is a similar tall shifter used on the RAM10/ T56. I think it may have less of a slant to the driver.You will have to match the bolt pattern and the length the stem reaches into the trans. If the pattern matches you can add a spacer to compensate the stem reach( if it is too long).
If you can take the shifter appart, remove the lever and heat it where the bend is and carefully "unbend" it.
If you can take the shifter appart, remove the lever and heat it where the bend is and carefully "unbend" it.
#4
SUCCESS - I was able to heat-and-twist the NV4500 shifter stub to make it come out "straight". Here's a few how-to thoughts:
1. Remove stub from shift tower by removing the torx screws
2. **IMPORTANT** - Before heating, remove the insert tip at the base of the stub. You will need to drive out the roll pin to remove the tip, and then give it a good pull with a pair of pliers (unless you have kung fu grip). The tip is shock-mounted with two stout O-rings that the engineers devised as a clever way to soften the shift and reduce vibration. You don't want to scorch these O-rings when you heat the stub.
3. I braced the stub on a welding table with some scrap metal and a giant C-clamp to hold it securely, with the upper end of the stub hanging over the edge of the table.
4. I heated the stub using an acetylene torch just below the bend until it glowed dark orange, then used a pipe wrench to give it a twist.
1. Remove stub from shift tower by removing the torx screws
2. **IMPORTANT** - Before heating, remove the insert tip at the base of the stub. You will need to drive out the roll pin to remove the tip, and then give it a good pull with a pair of pliers (unless you have kung fu grip). The tip is shock-mounted with two stout O-rings that the engineers devised as a clever way to soften the shift and reduce vibration. You don't want to scorch these O-rings when you heat the stub.
3. I braced the stub on a welding table with some scrap metal and a giant C-clamp to hold it securely, with the upper end of the stub hanging over the edge of the table.
4. I heated the stub using an acetylene torch just below the bend until it glowed dark orange, then used a pipe wrench to give it a twist.