So the wife & I are driving along. . .
#1
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So the wife & I are driving along. . .
minding our own business just about to decide what dinner plans we had and suddenly the engine starts bogging at constant throttle. Not cruise control, but foot control (no cruise any longer). About 2K rpm, 3rd gear (th400) and 4.30 rear ratio so about 35ish mph. Few back fires, more bogging/studdering from the engine and I saw some smoke popping w/the backfires (I suspect just cleaning out carbon...) Anyway, I managed to get the last mile home with the engine calming down for a few minutes then repeating and dying. Got the last few blocks bogging and studdering again. Got into the garage and pulled the valve covers, looked for leaks everywhere, checked fluid levels, nothing obvious. Rockers and springs appeared to be fully in tact. No issues with leaks. . . nothing.
Pulled out the HP and recorded a few moments of running. During the log attached the engine died twice (as you might observe). I copied the DTCs as well and have included it too.
I welcome thoughts.
GMPP intake, Aarons elbow, Lunati 55008 cam shaft (237/242 .642/.644 with 1.82 roller rockers), LT headers, 3" exhaust, TH400 trans, TCI super street fighter converter, 4.30 rear 10-bolt.
Pulled out the HP and recorded a few moments of running. During the log attached the engine died twice (as you might observe). I copied the DTCs as well and have included it too.
I welcome thoughts.
GMPP intake, Aarons elbow, Lunati 55008 cam shaft (237/242 .642/.644 with 1.82 roller rockers), LT headers, 3" exhaust, TH400 trans, TCI super street fighter converter, 4.30 rear 10-bolt.
#3
Right now I'm getting results I don't agree with in the scanner. I'm assuming its the software edition I'm using. Give me 15min. I'm overwritting my current Hp Tuners <BETA> software edition so I can see your current scan using the VCM Suite 2.2 Standard software.
Crank sensor is not connected, wtf?
Get it checked.
(Why is your passenger side front o2 sensor not working?). $'s on that also being the issue. Once the car warms up and it goes into closed loop the car will run like total **** unless that's fixed. Pull it and check connection, reinstall, reset DTC's, and see if issue goes away.
Crank sensor is not connected, wtf?
Get it checked.
(Why is your passenger side front o2 sensor not working?). $'s on that also being the issue. Once the car warms up and it goes into closed loop the car will run like total **** unless that's fixed. Pull it and check connection, reinstall, reset DTC's, and see if issue goes away.
Last edited by 2TR; 11-12-2011 at 08:34 PM.
#5
#6
Based on the scanner log you posted the car died at the moment the car went into closed loop. AND yes that passenger side o2 sensor is on the fritz. It doesn't pulse back and forth once closed loop operation began...its static.
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Alright, crank sensor appears good in place, wires good, crank moves on .0007, .0008 and .0011. Changed out my passenger O2 on a friends read of the logging...Worked much much better. short logging here.Thanks for sure. I'll get to the crank sensor tomorow and I'll insulate the wires (about 1.5" from headers....)
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#8
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Alright, took it for a brief spin this afternoon and had speedo for the first time since the trans swap. Minor tweek needed there but irrelavant here.About 1:20 into it I let off the gas and the O2s both dropped down and 1:25 the advance dropped to 0 as the engine died. It didn't do the backfire or lurching thing as last night, just simply died. waited a few seconds, restarted and all was fine from what I saw...Any thoughts on this?
#11
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little update....
changed the crank sensor and confirmed wires good - not my issue
replaced both O2 sensors and confirmed wires good - not my issue
being told to replace my alternator signal wire from the PCM (probably not issue but cheap enough)
testing/resetting VATS tomorrow but haven't had any indications it was security - free and quick so what the hey . . .
changed the crank sensor and confirmed wires good - not my issue
replaced both O2 sensors and confirmed wires good - not my issue
being told to replace my alternator signal wire from the PCM (probably not issue but cheap enough)
testing/resetting VATS tomorrow but haven't had any indications it was security - free and quick so what the hey . . .
#12
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What exactly are you fighting now? Just the stalling when lifting? That could be a fueling issue. Using your scanner controls, turn off the fuel trims and see how it runs. Log IAC desired IAC as well as all the other pertinent PIDs.
Oh yeah, log desired airflow, STITs LTITs, etc.
Oh yeah, log desired airflow, STITs LTITs, etc.
#14
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If it's a no start condition, forget about your scanner, and use tried and true diagnostic procedures, fundamental to any I.C.E. Check for spark manually, check for fuel pressure with a gauge (sounds like you already have) and check for injector pulse. It has to be one of those three. As long as it has an unobstructed intake and exhaust tract, and compression, it has to be fuel or spark. Once you know which is has and doesn't, you can then move on to finding why.
#19
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Alright, crank sensor appears good in place, wires good, crank moves on .0007, .0008 and .0011. Changed out my passenger O2 on a friends read of the logging...Worked much much better. short logging here.Thanks for sure. I'll get to the crank sensor tomorow and I'll insulate the wires (about 1.5" from headers....)