Gears & Axles - midwest chassis 9" - torque specs for gear housing to axle housing bolts

Changed my gears on my Midwest Chassis Ford 9". I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV Silicone in between the axle housing studs.

I can't remember what I torqued the nuts down to, but it's leaking so I'm wondering if I didn't torque them down enough.

Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the nuts that hold the gear housing to the axle housing? These right here:

https://sites.google.com/site/zigzautonotes/images/LS1_rearend1b_circled.jpg

Also, is the Ultra Copper RTV sufficient, or does anyone recommend a better gasket maker? This leak sucks. :bang:

Thanks for any help/advice,
Zig

OMG that rear is awesome! Sorry I can't help you. Best of luck on getting the leak fixed.

I used permatex right stuff for sealing the rear. And I never torque them to a spec, I just tighten them evenly and make sure they are German specs goodntight.

Did you go around the studs, or just between them.

around is best...

Maybe 10-15 pounds. I normally just snug then down good with a wrench. They dont need much.

Thanks Rob! This thing is built like a TANK.

Permatex The Right Stuff - I'll pick some of that up. Thanks for the suggestion ZMG!

Did you go around the studs, or just between them.

Hmmm...around the studs? Do you mean putting the gasket maker around the base of each stud in addition to in between them?

We use black rtv here when we ship them out. Also make a pass around the studs and in between them when you are putting it on. As far as torque specs just get them good and tight by hand and you will be fine.

Thanks Rob! This thing is built like a TANK.

Permatex The Right Stuff - I'll pick some of that up. Thanks for the suggestion ZMG!



Hmmm...around the studs? Do you mean putting the gasket maker around the base of each stud in addition to in between them?

It wont leak if you use it around the studs. With the right stuff:D

Well, I was wrong. It wasn't leaking between the axle housing and the gear housing. It was leaking from the pinion seal.

Apparently, my SLP LM1 makes too much heat for the seal. I had a rearend shop replace the seal (yes, I know I could have done it myself, but just started a new job and didn't have time or access to a lift).

Just ordered some DEI Titanium header wrap; I'll wrap that around the pipe back by the pumpkin, and see if that helps.

Just posting this in case anyone buys one of these rearends and an aftermarket exhaust and drives the car on a frequent basis.

If it happens again, I'll upgrade to a Viton seal.