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Break in period for a new motor?

Old 11-16-2011, 11:32 PM
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Default Break in period for a new motor?

I got my New motor in the car and I have been running it around town staying under 3500rpm to break it in. I have a total of about 120miles on the new motor and was wondering how much break in time do you guys think a new motor should have? The Machine shop said that the bores are extreamly smooth and it should break in very quick. I am using the Total Seal ring set for N2O applications which means it has the harden steel top ring. I am shooting for Friday to bring the car to the tuners for them to tune it. Do you guys think this is to soon to go WOT? What is the General rule of thumb? By this time I should have about 150-170 miles on the new motor. Let me know what you pro's think and thanks for your time..
Old 11-17-2011, 01:25 AM
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I am actually in the same situation with my car. Planning on getting it tuned Friday as well, according to Total Seal's website they should seat at the race track. So i am assuming they should seat on the dyno, just going to run some non synthetic oil until after the tune.

FROM TOTAL SEAL'S Website:
When first starting your engine to ensure proper ring seating, do not allow the engine to idle for long periods at a time. It is a good idea to mildly load the engine as soon as you can. Highway driving is a good way to properly seat the rings quickly. Do not idle the engine as idling does not break in any engine. Total Seal ® DOES NOT recommend the use of synthetic oils during break-in. After 2000-3000 miles on the street, or one night racing on the track, the rings should be adequately seated so that any oil you prefer can then be used.
Old 11-17-2011, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tninl98
I am actually in the same situation with my car. Planning on getting it tuned Friday as well, according to Total Seal's website they should seat at the race track. So i am assuming they should seat on the dyno, just going to run some non synthetic oil until after the tune.

FROM TOTAL SEAL'S Website:
Thanks man
Old 11-17-2011, 05:40 AM
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Also don't forget to change that oil!
Old 11-17-2011, 05:45 AM
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honestly i get them running and break in the cam then break them in on the dyno never had an issue rings usually seat fast as long as you get the motor good and hot on start up
Old 11-17-2011, 02:20 PM
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I would def do a few WOT pulls after the cam/rings broke in after first start up. Had a buddy who never went over 4000 after rebuild and went to the dyno 600 miles after. Lots of blue smoke/smoke, been fine every since tho....Def make sure rings are seated.
Old 11-17-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by odarabla
I got my New motor in the car and I have been running it around town staying under 3500rpm to break it in. I have a total of about 120miles on the new motor and was wondering how much break in time do you guys think a new motor should have? The Machine shop said that the bores are extreamly smooth and it should break in very quick. I am using the Total Seal ring set for N2O applications which means it has the harden steel top ring. I am shooting for Friday to bring the car to the tuners for them to tune it. Do you guys think this is to soon to go WOT? What is the General rule of thumb? By this time I should have about 150-170 miles on the new motor. Let me know what you pro's think and thanks for your time..
It was FULLY broken in after 3 miles........hopefully you haven't been driving it all nice for 120 miles. If you have, you MAY have robbed yourself of a proper break-in. RINGS are what break-in, not the entire engine.

Engines get broken after 3-4 HARD dyno runs....or on the street within 3-4 HARD driving miles.

You should change the oil at 150, 250, 500 and 1,000 miles also.

**Your engine should have seen WOT runs within 3-4 miles. What do you think GM does to every LSx engine before it leaves the shop.....WOT dyno runs.

Here's how an engine should be broken-in:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.
Old 11-17-2011, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
It was FULLY broken in after 3 miles........hopefully you haven't been driving it all nice for 120 miles. If you have, you MAY have robbed yourself of a proper break-in. RINGS are what break-in, not the entire engine.

Engines get broken after 3-4 HARD dyno runs....or on the street within 3-4 HARD driving miles.

You should change the oil at 150, 250, 500 and 1,000 miles also.

**Your engine should have seen WOT runs within 3-4 miles. What do you think GM does to every LSx engine before it leaves the shop.....WOT dyno runs.

Here's how an engine should be broken-in:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

.


I haven't gone over 4000rpm's yet because the car isn't tuned yet. It will see the Dyno tomorrow and get a full tune.. I still have to install the 42lb injectors for the new motor.. I am still using the old injectors and have been babying it because of not being tuned..
Old 11-18-2011, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Tninl98
I am actually in the same situation with my car. Planning on getting it tuned Friday as well, according to Total Seal's website they should seat at the race track. So i am assuming they should seat on the dyno, just going to run some non synthetic oil until after the tune.

FROM TOTAL SEAL'S Website:
Why are you in such a hurry to use synthetic, stick with a good mineral for a few thousand, your engine will be all the better for it. Synthetics too slippery for new bores.
Old 11-18-2011, 05:33 AM
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Last motor I helped with made it about 5 miles before it was WOT.

Just want to make sure everything is up to operating temperature.
Old 11-18-2011, 03:51 PM
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if the finish hone was correct for the ring app and assembled using correct lube on cylinder walls rings should be seated by the time your done assembling it from turning it over
ring seating isnt like it was when guys ran hard chrome rings,in out of round bores
Old 11-18-2011, 05:38 PM
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This is the suggestion I give to everyone I build an engine for- take it for what it's worth as there are many different opinions out there.
Install in the car with non synthetic oil, start up and run for 15-25 minutes, get the engine up to operating temperature. Change the oil and filter with more non synthetic.

Drive easy for a few days , a few heat cycles for the valve springs is more important to me than the mileage.

Change the oil again with non synthetic and do what you will to it.

1k miles switch to synthetic

With that said, I've built engines that were fired up for the first time in the staging lane

Last edited by Whistler; 11-19-2011 at 04:47 PM.
Old 11-19-2011, 07:57 AM
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I beat the **** out of mine as soon as they're up to temp.
I've watched countless engine dyno break-ins. There's usually a bit of blue smoke on the first and second runs, but it's completely cleaned up by the time the fourth is done.
Old 11-21-2011, 08:45 AM
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Well I ended up putting about 200 miles or so on the engine (never bringing it above 3500rpm) before bringing it to the Dyno on Friday. We are using a 15W-50 oil in it to break it in and will switch to 10w-30 after the tune. I can keep you guys up to date with the power it makes in this thread if you like.. I hope and pray that the tune is completed without any issues.. If I have anymore issues with this build I might just set it on fire!! LOL
Old 11-25-2011, 08:59 PM
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It's important to beat them ASAP after start up.We do alot of startup's for customers and the engines are running clean by the time we get off the load dyno.

The cars that show up with 100-500 miles of easy driving ussually smoke like a bastard.Sometimes we save them by really loading the car on the dyno and doing extended pulls.
Old 11-26-2011, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
It's important to beat them ASAP after start up.We do alot of startup's for customers and the engines are running clean by the time we get off the load dyno.

The cars that show up with 100-500 miles of easy driving ussually smoke like a bastard.Sometimes we save them by really loading the car on the dyno and doing extended pulls.
Thanks for the info but the car never smoked as far as I know. Geoff completed the tuning and now the car is a dream to drive. I was a little disappointed in the final #'s but Geoff said it was because of the loose converter that is in the car. The converter is a 8" 5000rpm stall in a th350 that was flashing between 5600 and 6000rpm before being shut down at 6800rpm. The final #'s were 450rwhp and 395rwtorq but it feels so freaking strong when you punch into it. It definitely feels stronger than my old motor was and it went 10.90@123mph.
I am going to contact Kenny at PTC and have him cut the 8" converter to a 3600-4000rpm stall.
Old 11-27-2011, 08:07 AM
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heres my method and has always worked for me and my dad. After the initial startup run the engine around 3500rpm for 20 minutes or so. Change the oil! Take it out on the street and cruise around for a bit make sure your up to temp. Turn the corner and do a gradual 2nd gear WOT, cruise around a bit, turn another corner and do another 2nd gear WOT. Repeat the process and run it harder each time. Take it back home and change the oil again. Your ready to go after that.
Old 11-29-2011, 10:05 PM
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The best thing for breaking in your new engine is to drive around town like your doing, NO FREEWAYS YET, and Dont keep it in one gear for too long. Some say LS1's dont need to be broken in because of their superior engineering , but better safe then sorry. Change your oil too!!!! 100 miles is kind of long to have the same oil in their will all those new parts. depending on your weather i would go with a nice 10w40 oil. Good Luck!
Old 12-02-2011, 11:17 PM
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My method is 12 to 15 any two gears wide open throttle blasts, change oil, job done...... of course, i set the air fuel ratio to ideal, in the process, then, tha camster, heads for the dyno....


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